ErOR
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Posts posted by ErOR
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Hey man, ever end up resolving the problem? Mine starting to do the same;
- low rpm noise and vibration
- goes away when boost kicks it/higher rpm
- no noise on idle
- coasting then clutch in still makes noise
- revving in neutral no noise
- revving in gear no noise
The rattle that I had was coming from the exhaust heatshield just after the manifold. It's a 2 piece heatshield there if I remember correctly and it was just touching. It would only make the sound when taking of in low rpm.
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as written pretty clearly in SB's post.
bridge the inputs to the ignitor then only use 3 of the outputs
that makes no sense
Did you not realise yet that I'm trying to learn and am a total newb?!
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Oh no....your using the 6 cylinder commodore coils.....please tell me atleast your not attempting to use the ignition module that's ment to sit below them? If so forget it. If however your trying to use just the coil packs(unsure why as there crap and fail so much and I'm unsure if the dwell is even compatible) then yeah you need to bridge the inputs to the ignitor then only use 3 of the outputs yet it won't effect the timing light as its always going to be firng at the same time relative to crank position
The ignition module is stock s1 rb25 one and the coils are VN I believe. Dwell time is probably not right but I'm just trying this out to see how I go then later I'll make a proper setup.
Bridge what inputs? It's impossible to adjust timing right now.
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Here is how the setup is wired up, As far as I understand the red wire is sensing when cyl1 fired so the ECU can set electronic timing but since cyl6 trigger wire is also connected to this it upsets the ECU (Please correct me if I'm wrong!). Firing order is 1-6 3-4 2-5 so the there's a second pulse not even a second later. I tried connecting cyl1 trigger wire and the red wire together -> diode -> cyl6 trigger wire -> coil but that resulted in cyl1 not firing even though it had spark.
Timing was checked via plug lead of course. Timing is jumping about 4 degrees backwards and forwards couple of time every second through the rev range.
Gonna go see a sparky tomorrow and get some advice.
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Yeah I understand what's going on, but I need to make it so cyl6 trigger doesn't affect the sensor wire as the that tells ECU when cyl1 is firing, this is how I understand it.
I did it because it was under $100 and my coils were about done.
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Hi.
Have setup wasted spark with holden coils on a R32 S1 RB25 but now the issues is that the ECU is getting two pulses for no1 cyl spark as the cyl1/6 and cyl1 sensor wire are bundled. It's quite obvious when under a timing light, the timing is jumping all over the place.
I've spend a few hours trying to remedy this with a diode but no luck what so ever, talk about a waste of time...
Anyone have experience or knowledge about fixing this, I really need to sort this out. The car goes fine but can tell something is not 100% with the ignition.
Cheers!
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I did the exact same thing a few months ago with a drill and a jigsaw... came out ok, but these look so nice
About 5 weeks ago a coil pack still failed when the car got really hot.
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If you got cash for a GTX it's a no brainer.
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Okay so the car randomly died twice today. Once when slowing down and once when accelerating. The car starts up fine straight away so i ruled out fuel pump, i suspect coilpacks and sparkplugs, what do you guys reckon?
Any weird symptoms like rough idle, random backfires, revs down rough?
Checked timing? CAS? Knock sensor?
How does it hesitate and struggle as it revs? Starts cutting out and being jerky or just loss of power as it revs as if its out of guts?
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No idea, the person I bought the clutch / flywheel from sorted me out. Shouldn't be much, maybe around $150 range depending on place etc.
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If everything is straight when the box gets stuck like that then it's most likely stuck on the splines. Rotate the engine and should slide in.
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After the 6 puk melted to the flywheel I got the flywheel and pressure plate balanced and all the vibrations are gone now.
Lessons learned, experience gained...
Also switched from ceramic to kevlar and it's so much nicer to drive around streets, 6 puk ceramic can stay for the track.
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The clutch is from a reputable store in NZ, not actually sure on the brand or where it came from. The gear is definitely of high quality, could be a bad batch. Will go see the guys there today and have a chat about it.
No I didn't mark the driveshaft flanges but remember this vibration is happening in neutral, driveshaft shouldn't have anything to do with this vibration as far as I know.
I'm leaning more towards pressure plate cast being out of balance or something similar.
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So my standard clutch finally gave up so purchased a lightened flywheel and a 6 puck clutch kit. Installed it all last weekend, the only thing not replaced is the bush inside the crank as I was running out of time. Everything has been bolted up correctly, surfaces checked, there was a little bit of machining material left on flywheel dowels but cleaned it all up so the pressure plate definitely sat flush. Gearbox was supported the whole time so clutch shouldn't have bent, there's no judder/shudder and car drives fine.
Been driving the car easily to get everything to bed in so haven't pushed it yet but have noticed that more vibrations are coming through the car, especially at around 4k rpm mark where it starts to gets a bit crazy.
I have solid mounts for the gearbox and in the subframe, a bit more noise came through but no biggie as I've been using them for over a year.
At first I though it could be the driveshaft being unbalanced but it also happens in neutral at around 4k rpm there a big vibration starts coming through the car, which keeps increasing as the revs go up. The vibration is of high frequency, as if something is out of balance slightly.
I can't feel this vibrations on the clutch nor through the shifter.
Anyone experienced something similar after a clutch job? Any tips of pin pointing the location of this vibration?
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I have the same noise when taking of sometimes and I believe it's something to do with the clutch. I'll be doing the whole clutch job in a month or two and am interested to see what I can find regarding this noise.
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Just get a new tie rod, cheap as. Removing the rods from hicas rack can be a pain in the ass unless you know the trick.
When I got rid of hicas I just got new rods and didn't bother taking old ones off.
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jiffo's post is possibly what's happening.Can you chuck your old speedo back in to see if everything goes back to normal? If it does, then the speed sensor on the speedo could be different.No point in a bump without some actual work/troubleshooting and some results
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Have you had a look at the fuses?
All I could point my finger at this point is some kind of a bad connection...
Since you're using a lock bar like me, do you have anything unplugged from hicas ecu? Silver box under the parcel tray.
To get into HICAS diags:
1) Switch ingition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.
2) Start engine
3) Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more - this will enter diagnostic mode.
4) Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10k/ph, this will enter full diagnostic mode.
5) The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit. Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10k/ph, or ingnition is turned off.
Result codes:
11 HICAS control unit
12 HICAS motor power supply not present
13 HICAS motor output not present
21 Vehicle speed sensor not present
22 Steering angle sensor not present
23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present
24 Rear main sensor input not present
25 Rear sub sensor input not present
31 Parking brake sensor input not present
32 (Auto) Inhibititor switch input not present
(Manual) Neutral switch input not present
33 Engine speed signal not present -
So you replaced the speedo cable?
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The sensor behind the dash is the one coming from the gearbox. It's a big round hole with a small shaft sticking out of it right behind the gauge cluster. That's where the speego gets its reading from. Funny that your speedo works but you get heavy steering as usually when that pin breaks and car no longer receives a speed signal is when you get the heavy steering.
You might have to do a HICAS diagnostic test and see what comes up.
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Possibly the O2 sensor needs replacing or maybe the thermostat. Does the car take a while to warm up?
Another thing that could be is the water temp sensor for the ECU, if it's giving a wrong reading (too cold), the car will think that it's still needs to warm up and will keep running rich to try and do so.
I find revving out the engine a bit more (3k) when cruising to be better for fuel economy as long its kept at light load to keep momentum.
What ECU are you now running?
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How are you trying to get it into the diagnostic mode?
The HICAS system and the low speed steering assistance are tied together as you've found out. There are speed sensors in front hubs and the steering angle sensor behind the steering wheel which are crucial. In the R33 the system is electronic so maybe there's a bad connection somewhere. Take out the HICAS ecu and pop it open to see that inside everything is ok, as sometimes a screw can get loose and it can create electrical shorts.
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I have exactly the same issue. When stopping revs will sit at 1000 or so rpms and then drop to normal, it's way worse when cold.
I've cleaned aac, checked ignition bits, looked for leaks many times and I have no idea where to go next. Could the aac valve be slow or something and need replacing? I have a small missfire on idle too which is possibly connected.
25de
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Rego is sorted, QLD is so much easier!!! didnt even have to have a qld license haha.
now that ive had a chance to give it a good drive some issues have become apparent,
first the cars hunting on idle so there is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere
and the car wont stay on boost it keeps fluttering off and is very uneven so im guessing a boost leak somewhere also
and finally there is a put put sound on idle once warm, ill attach a link to a vid below.
i have had this last issue on my old r34 and spent a fair bit chasing the problem on coilpacks new leads and spark plugs ect and it turned out to be the TPS, that being the cheapest fix im just going to buy a new one and chuck it in and see what happens
Haven't seen a r32 tke in white before, looks rad!
I have the same issue atm, it's miss firing on idle. I have been chasing this one for a while too and haven't tried another tps yet. Interested to see what a new tps does for you.
R34 25gt tapping and oil
in Naturally Aspirated Performance
Posted · Edited by ErOR
So obviously there's a leak around the gearbox somewhere, you'll have to get under it and see where it's coming from.
Have you done any work around that are recently, take the drive shaft out for any reason?
What is the condition of the centre hanger bearing?
Sounds like a universal as suggested.