czeno
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Posts posted by czeno
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I do not enjoy removing the Stagea starter motor or any if I can help it. I constructed these locking bars that attach to the front pulley. Only the M6 extractor bolts hold it in location, use high tensile bolts nipped up tight. I can get up to specified torque on pulley bolt with out the locker self destructing or bolts breaking. I've also used a piece of pipe about 30mm OD with some M10 bolts welded on, these engaged into the lugs that exist on inner of the Stagea pulley. Not so for my RB20E R33, hasn't got those afore mentioned lugs. That is the crustier looking of the 2 items in photo, bit tighter fit in there on that one. The one with the ring is Stagea and I assume other RB25's.
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My 33 is doing this sometimes. I suppose you've slapped the dash top, came back to life for me this way - bonus missing back light display on one side lit up too.
This video is a good step through or wade at times, cut to about 8 min and it digs in microscopic. Quite good I thought.
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My RS4 had boost leakage at the throttle body rubber union, it was hardened by time & heat. Perked up a bit after sorting that. A bit later head gasket failed, hmmm. That teardown also revealed exhaust manifold warpage (leakage was un audible). Different beast now.
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Well that took a while, part time in weekends only when there was time.
Just a heads up, got this thing up & running, great, no leaks etc..
Come road test time and the dreaded blue/white cloud out exhaust came after about 2kms. told myself not to panic, probably just something burning off exhaust. Well it got worse and I turned for home at 4km, got a little better. Got to my gateway, hopped out & looked at exhaust, steaming and wet.
Refusing to accept I could get it that wrong, but evidence out exhaust looking bad. I figured it had to be the large muffler at the back sloshing with coolant all this time parked in shed.
luckily I was right, second run all systems normal, no steam. Glad I didn't tear it down again only to find nothing.
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Have you checked attessa fluid level inside the r/h panel at rear? With engine running too.
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Oh I've got Nissan factory gasket and new studs. And new exhaust studs. Should be good for it's stock 180kw. This thing is standard right down to original wheels and the tape deck - which died a long time back.
Just the sweet sound of inline RB and the road.
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New development, my straight edge was bad. Rechecked with a better grade one. Now within 0.05mm (0.002") and any of that is in the middle - the more conventional style warp. Good to go again and no trip to machinist required.
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I found the head bolts between 5 & 6 yielded easier than all the others when unbolting. No 5 cyl also showing signs of gasket distress towards those studs too. I imagine when it gets hotter than normal expansion occurs in head causing stud stretch & gasket compression.
Wondered what other peoples experience of RB head warp is.
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It's been 10 years with my RS4 series 1. The head gasket had catastrophic failure when under boost a while back, went choo choo train emitting a large white cloud out the back. Temp quite normal, no recovery bottle warning signs leading up to event apart from developing rough idle a few days before. I pulled off to side of road and could see temp gauge sneaking up, switched off & assessed situation. Most telling thing was green coolant running from exhaust. That was a tow truck ride home.
It's been in the shed a while now as I go my glacial pace of sorting it out. I've got the head off & cleaned off gasket surfaces. I put a straight edge on & checked with feeler gauges to find I have a bend to deal with.
Odd really as it's been 5 years since I changed out it's previous dodgy radiator. In that time before it's temps would elevate but not to severity. Although there was this time pulling a trailer and all was OK until I switched off, recovery bottle started to blow steam & I restarted to get circulation going again and settle temp down. I suppose with a 0.9 bar rad cap it'd have seen about 120 degrees to make steam.
Gasket failure was on the exhaust side of No 6 cyl. I see my bend on the head viewing it with deck facing up as the head is convex across it's length. The straight edge rocks end to end and contacts the middle of surface. Would be approx 0.1mm per end clearance.
The gasket failed on the steel compression ring and continued on to rupture water & oil gallery sealing.
My question is do these things tend to warp up on the ends of head (imaging it's still face down on block)? Most head warps I've seen usually go up in the middle. What I'm seeing on the RB would seem to fit as it's known the end cylinder gets the most heat.
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Heads up on this useful guide. Just changed out my R33 core sourced from Kudos motorsport. I removed the passenger seat, was quite comfortable laying there on the carpet.
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I've towed a few loads with my S1 RS4 auto, it loves it, just tends to get a bit hot. O.k until switching off where I'd get bit of cooling system boil going. May need to have a good look at the radiator sometime, normal use seems fine.
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I towed with mine for the first time last week. Single axle trailer 2400x1500 bed, mostly filled with timber. She towed better than anything I've ever used to tow (having spent no time behind the wheel of 6 litre V8s). I was stunned by the acceleration with the empty trailer on the first truck I had to pass. The AWD has to be the trump card too, what a car.
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I'm putting a DW200 on the shopping list, I keep thinking about the day the stock pump will fail.
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I've noticed we are the only people on earth who are aware of 02 sensors. My NGK one is about 40000km old now and the beast grows hungry. Thing is last time I changed it no change in consumption was noted. Many weeks passed by then one day it changed, could scarcely believe that she was actually trying to be efficient. Like the shifting sands of the desert they are.
I've had the automotive dream run of a lifetime with the 18 months of driving done in this car. Now it's time to give it a rest from daily work and getting worn out. I'm fixing up my old 1400 carburettor'd Sentra for the daily grind, now that will truly save fuel.
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When pushing brake pistons back it would be better to loosen the bleed nipple at the caliper rather than force it back through the system.
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Is there any way I can tell if this needs doing? I'd rather not drop $250 "just to see".
Disconnect it & use up a tankfull, see if any change?
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Here's stats from 3 fill ups on my C34 S1- stock everything except no cat. 'Z' 95 fuel.
05/03/12: 10.72/100km
08/03/12: 9.96/100km... first time ever getting into 9's
13/03/12: 10.6/100km... this one is the most common result
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The other thing i have done, is cut away a section of the rubber at the rear that seals the bonnet to the engine bay. This is on the exhaust/turbo side and lets alot of hot air out. After stopping the car i can tell the difference just by touching the bonnet in different places. It's alot cooler at the air filter end, and just warm at the turbo/exhaust end. I've felt my bonnet temps for along time prior (just for curiosity - ok, i'm weird) and this small mod has definitely helped alot.
I have been thinking of doing something like that for a while but can't bear cutting away stuff, good idea to dump some heat out there. My bonnet lining was getting all tatty looking & fibres dropping out onto the motor so I removed it, bothers me that the paint is feeling more heat. Still heat can radiate out better and a bit more air space.
Back in the jurassic era when my old holden 186 turbo roamed the earth, under bonnet temp got way higher than any of it's peers. The 3" dump pipe and Rajay turbo scroll and cast manifold would regularly glow cherry. Think I had spacers under the bonnet hinges to lift the back a little.
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I've got my old front pads (WGNC34 series 1) sitting in a box at home so can't measure from here. Those ones displayed look about right, they are quite a large pad. I couldn't get DB1250 pad here in NZ and they supplied me with a TRW GDB1000 - perfect match to the profile of 1250 just missing the squealer tangs. They are not as dust making as the Remsa pads they replaced.
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She's a beauty!, nice shine and interesting seeing the transformation into that lean mean machine. I'm impressed how much ground clearance they have stock, all quite smooth & no lumpy bits hanging underneath. Mine will be staying this way as sometimes there is the need to go into the rough stuff. Looking at the dings & bumps from the last (first) owner it's used to it. They emigrated from Japan & brought the car here.
If my son ever gets hold of my car it'll get modded like that.
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My Stagea's first birthday today, stock standard right down to the stereo, she's a keeper.
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Is there an edit button?...anyway that's 36000 km not 3600
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Near on my first anniversary in my Stag, 3600 kms have rolled beneath us, love it more than I did before and burning 10.6L/100km. The kids like it's 'Ferrari' noise if I give her some boot.
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My car behaved in a similar manner for awhile (S1). I'd feel a slight hesitation at constant 100kph every so often, wtf is that motor or drivetrain? I'd think to myself. One day not long after the gremlin made it's appearance. I was slowing down for an intersection and felt the car engine brake more for a moment then off again. The 4wd light came on and about a km later limp mode kicked in. Oh dear I gots me a piece of shit I thought ( I didn't know about this feature).
To cut a long story short it was just low on atessa fluid, the greatest discovery being that like an auto trans you gotta check level with motor running. I get the feeling the car applies a bit of front drive on deceleration, a little free braking as it were. Hence the problem setting off the alarm bells when front drive would apply then change it's mind about it. Lack of clutch pack pressure I guess.
Please disregard all of the above if you have covered this base, just don't like to see ya suffer. I have a low tolerance for the bastards misbehaving.
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I was up for a new set of tyres last month so thought I'd give the Bridgestone Ecopia a try. They claim less rolling resistance & better fuel milage, figured that over the lifecycle of the tyre they may cover their own cost.
The following data reinforces how resistant the mighty Stagea is to anything like this. Or do these Ecopia really do as claimed?, I have noticed the tyres seem to have less temperature build up. Tyre pressure is 38psi.
These readings are based on refueling on the last quarter of tank, filling her up + one more click of the nozzle to make sure, record kms & litres, reset trip meter.
21/06/11 - 11.2L/100km
27/06/11 - 11.1L/100km
30/06/11 - 11.3L/100km
05/07/11 - 11.4L/100km
08/07/11 - 11.1/100km
14/07/11 - 11.4/100km
19/07/11 - 11.0/100km
Tyres fitted 20/07/11
25/07/11 - 11.2L/100km
28/07/11 - 11.3/100km
02/08/11 - 11.3L/100km
10/08/11 - 10.8L/100km ... long trip that day
13/08/11 - 11.6L/100km
15/08/11 - 10.5L/100km....freak ?
19/08/11 - 11.5L/100km
24/08/11 - 11.6L100km
Car is S1 RS4v.
Misfire/stalling issues
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Have you explored this possibility further? I've been quietly watching this story unfold, early on I thought seems like bad fuel.