headwithbeard
-
Posts
26 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by headwithbeard
-
-
i do belive i have the same problem here too, have there been any developments with this issue?
-
I know this is an old thread, but figured this is the best place to ask the question. Which loom dose the wires to the steering rack pressure solonoid attach to? Or perhaps tell me the colours of the wires on the loom that it attaches to? After investigation I found on my car it's not attached to anything.
-
ok, thanks a lot guys.
just moved from nsw and unfamiliar with local rules, bought one with the hole cut without even thinking about it and kicking myself for doing so.
-
hey guys, not sure if anyone has mentioned the hole people make below the washer bottle for the fmic pipe yet. any views on that one?
-
Where are the parts man?
-
so, where in sydney are you?
-
awesome. to me it initially looked as if there wasn't a constructive argument going on. but it's good to see the wealth of knowledge of the users of this forum has come out.
makes sense that you get what you pay for. thanks for the information.
-
Not all cheap turbos are bad, without even thinking Kandos and hypergears are proven performers without the price tag.
as with most things of a "cheap" nature it can be one or a mix of things you have mentioned that cause premature failure. the failure can range from oh my turbos making a funny noise to why is there no boost, right up to i think a piston just shot through the side of my block.
From what I have seen, the particularly bad ebay turbos are not balanced (or balanced at a low rpm to claim a low failure rate) - which is not a hard thing to do and is essential to ensure to the functionality and longevity of a turbo. you simply take it to a turbo shop and they attach it to a manifold in store and spin it right up to it's max rpm to ensure it spins freely and centered. if it is unbalanced they can cut small bits from the inducer or exducer to ensure it i within 0.00000 something of a gram off weight.
all the more mid range to expensive turbos will have slight bits of metal shaved off, thats not a manufacturing fault. If it is unbalanced with a cheap material or a cheap bearing, at a high rpm the fins start rubbing against the housing and anything from some of that dust getting sucked into the motor to a single fin to the entire set of blades flying off at crazy speeds can happen extremely easily.
Some other cheap exhaust housings leave large amounts of space between the exducer and the housing to mask this problem as well as other things and that causes positive boost to come on really late and gives you a useless powerband.
makes sense, one other thing I've seen is the castings of the housings are quite thick, i'm thinking to avoid failures due to core shift, that causes flow problems, you can fix a lot of it, but there's only so many places you can reach with a die grinder. luckily you can open up the waste gate easily.
what else needs to be done to get these going well?
-
so, why are these cheap turbos failing? poor manufacture, poor quality materials, user/installer neglect? do the expensive turbos really out perform the cheap ones?
just because it's cheap doesn't mean it's crap and so far the argument to buy the expensive turbo seems to be losing to me... by about $500.00
-
cool, thanks man.
-
thanks anyway man.
-
do you have the drivers side demister grille, the one that blows on the drivers side window?
-
Went through there last weekend, no roadworks.
-
hey, also interested. would you be interested in trading a standard r32 gtst ecu plus cash? was considering nistuning it and using it in my s1 r33, but it seems this'll be the better option.
-
tell me more about this rom man.
-
hey man, i'm chasing the air vent grille that goes on the top right hand of the dash, the one that blows onto the drivers window. got it still?
-
Kudos man, knowing Japanese can be so very usefull with these cars. I think I'll be buying a Japanese to English dictionary tomorrow.
-
Hey guys
Can anyone give me an idea how long Federal 595 RS-R's last for, I know the treadwear is only 140 but if someone can give me an idea on how many K's they got out of them that would be great.
Cheers
Managed to get 20kkm out of my set, but It's all got to do with keeping pressures right, alignment, roads you drive on and how hard you drive.
-
Still got that air box man?
-
Hey man, are the injectors from a series 1 or 2? Or doesn't it matter?
-
Hey, I'm interested in your coils. Do you still have them? And will you post them? Cheers. Text me on 0438470618 if you like.
-
Do you still have the coil loom? And would you send it to bathurst cod?
-
The road from Goulburn to Oberon, one of the papers rated it as one of the top ten drives in nsw. There's a few rough spots but nice drive.
I've travelled Bathurst to Goulburn and return once a fortnight for the last four years, always go via shooters hill Rd. Not sure if I've gotten bored of it once yet.
-
hey, I've currently have some other wheels organized. but if it falls through could i come see them on Saturday morning?
R33 Power Steering Problem Hicas Rack And Non Hicas Loom ?
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
well, if anyone is still interested. there's a pink wire that goes to the nolex type or white plug that sits between the fuse box and the washer bottle, that's the switched supply from the hicas module. then the grey connector above it has a straight black one that's the earth in the original loom.