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koe

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Posts posted by koe

  1. go online and buy a datsun L26 or L28 Oil filter stud.Basically you want to find one for the 240z or early 280z.

    This will allow you to delete the oem oil cooler.

    This is the Oil filter stud

    100_0727.jpg

    before

    100_0728.jpg

    100_0732.jpg

    after

    stud.jpg

    You can install a greddy oil filter relocation kit or any sandwich plate to run your oil cooler.

    It's best you shop for a aftermarket oil cooler

    There are some cheap ones out there that work fine for the RB20/RB25.

    This does requires to move and plug some of the water hoses.Nothing hard.

    Super easy to do.

  2. The art of torque and successfully transferring torque to the ground.

    We're go big or go home is law

    We're alcohol and nos is the two hands of god

    Displacement and flow is your only bible

    Antilag and gear ratios is you mom and dad

    That was my mentality.

    I could never get my leg to stop shaking like a wet dog tho........

    I guess all my adrenaline goes to my right leg , when I was drag racing.

    Can't say I hated it.

    The only way it stopped was flooring down the gas pedal like if I wanted to pierce the front fire wall lol

    It hade a mind of its own I guess... ;)

  3. Fluidyne radiator, ps cooler, oil cooler

    They do great stuff

    Car runs at 160 to 168 degrees all the time.aero work diff cooler turbo intake and suspension.

    Lots and lots of things I most change

    Easy way is to replace those old rear cross member bushing in favor of solid aluminum bushings.

    Both cross member and diff.

    A 1.5 LSD and a engine torque damper.

    Sprung type clutches if you care about your stock tranny.

    There is lots of things you can do to improve your 60 footer

    Such as one piece drive shaft etc...

    Mazworx has spend yrs on Silvia's so he was my guide.

    I had also a spare set of rear wheels.

    All I had to do is swap rims.

  4. I don't know how your tracks work in au?

    But I have to let off at 1/8th in order to keep running.

    So I determine my runs by the 60 footer.

    Which I have nailed a 1.8 sec

    Pwr in the 0.26 which my friend in he's gsx 600 has that

    Which is basically the same as the Citroen xsara wrc Rally race car only with better launch capabilities.

    it sure rocks my internal organs lol

    Not a fan anymore of drag racing

    Now I'm NASA and looking forward for some touge runs.

    Not mentioning drag racing is kind of dead here.

    Imports that is????

  5. I don't street race period.

    I use nitro vs air.

    Which when I set pressure it usually holds it for a long period of time.

    Yes I double check prior runs but basically when it is tuned its done.

    So I know when I drive home and go back the next weekend I still have the same psi.

    Last thing is dot tires are street tires. They just don't last long as your regular dot 100+ thread wear.

    The Hks hyper d coil overs are proven lethal in drag racing.

    With less tuning require for fast runs.

    I'm now using tanabe but if I was still into drag my car would still have hyper ds on it.

    I have a reinforced Mazworx cross on it with solid diff bushings.

    Helped me increase torque tho.

  6. Power to weight will always win in my book

    In a quarter mile track awd means nothing.

    Most efi comes with launch control

    Mine is set to 6.5

    Mine was jumping to the left

    Lowered the pressure on the right tire and helped alot.

    So suspension and tires are destructive counter measures against awd cars.

    I sure fear no awd car out there.

    They are top prey in my food chain. ;)

  7. Wiki answers

    Figures

    It took me almost 3 months on my last build to reach perfection( a point were I am satisfy and the peek performance)

    No one I know pushing serious power runs coolant.

    And if you read more on that wiki bs you will find out how that garbage called coolant or antifreeze creats viscous glass that builds up in your system. Experience is your best wiki.

    You will flip out even more if I tell you I don't even use synthetic oils. But you wouldn't understand.

    Either way it's useless to even learn about coolant were I live.

    One bottle of water wetter and fill up with distilled water.

    If have never seen snow.

  8. Unless you live in frozen temperatures using coolant in a mod skyline motor is not a good idea.

    The ideal way or at least how I do it is as fallow.

    I use 50/50 coolant and water mix to lube(prelube)

    Then I flush the system which the info on how to is anywhere in the net.

    Flush until no presence of coolant is present in the motor.

    I use 1 bottle of water wetter and top it of with destilated water.

    Usually found in the super market for 1 dollar a galon.

    Basicly non chlorine water.

    I have a bleeder system so I let my car do it for it self.

    But you will possibly want to get a radiator bleeder kit from a auto parts store and bleed the system.

    Your done

    Coolant is so destructive in a high operating temp motor it's not even funny.

    Last time I checked coolant has a much less boiling point then water.

  9. They don't make them no more.

    B&M made them for xsengineering

    Power pack

    Sadly B&M doesn't make them anymore.

    So no more ignition booster nor power pack.

    You can still get Hks dli and okada project plasma booster.

    Best price is okada.

    But this is for high hp applications.

    The z32 has a better design the the oem ignition booster.

    There was complains about this ignition boosters lowering the oem coilpacks.

    It's all rumors.

    Nothing has been proven nor I have I had issues.

    Miss information more likely to be found in forums.

    At the end it's your call.

  10. I just know what works

    I run splitfire , b&m ignition booster cdi ,z32 igniton chip,ngk bkr8eix front/bkr9eix rear and Hks fcon vpro.

    Yes my splitfires has tape on them just for added safety.

    Been running 500 torque for 3yrs on nothing but 93 octane pump gas

    I use larger spark plug gaps due to the cdi

    Gap to 30

    Tape or whatever it all does the same

    Insulation

  11. Oh thanks for info pinch.gif ,

    i may try few more on then see if that helps :thumbsup: ,

    heat transfer`s regardlees that was just too see if it helped as coil pack sitting on head hurts more,

    i looking at Heatshrink too see what happens with that,:thumbsup:

    you might want to inspects your coilpack harness and swap the ignitor chip to a better design model like a 300zx z32.

    Gap sizes yes you should run lower gap sizes until it is completely gone(missfire)

    To be able to run bigger gaps you will need some form of cdi or ignition booster.

    Tape does work

    Look for micro cracks on the coilpacks plastic housing.Specially on the lower side were it connects to the rubber boots.

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