Cain82
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Posts posted by Cain82
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nobody has mentioned whether this method applys to R34 as well, does anybody no how to remove the reverse beep on R34?
...it's gotta go, it's doing my head in.
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Hey everybody, was this ever solved by anybody? The only info I can find in relation to this is specific to R33 and I don't think it's the same
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In case this helps anybody, I had no experience before taking to my interior with the 3M DiNoc, its amazing stuff to work with but can be a bit tricky until you get the hang of it. Buy a little extra to give yourself some to practice with...
What I worked out to be verry effective was to have a spay bottle handy filled with water (room temp). Have it set to just lightly mist when you squeeze the trigger. When moulding the material around the corners of the parts and its hot, slowly work it by alternating between heating and misting to rapid cool. As the material will try to contract as it cools slow.
...It worked nicely for me, it's been on for over 12 months. looks brannoo
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has anybody used Bosch plugs?
Repco don't stock NGK and sold me a set of "platinum iridium super plus" plugs, wanted to know if anybody had any experiences to share??
...I haven't put them in yet, probably next weekend with the full service
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has anybody used Bosch plugs?
Repco don't stock NGK and sold me a set of "platinum iridium super plus" plugs
...but i haven't put them in yet
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If you did, I reckon you eould have a few followers, me included. I have found that it is not as easy as you might think to dig up how-to vids on the 34. I always prefer to learn a bit about whatever project or mod that I'll be doing next, that way you don't need to repeat somebody else's mistakes.
If u have any good resources, links or advice, feel free to pass em this way
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It's the first time I have looked at removing my door panels on my 34, and was lost trying to work out how the get the arm rest loose with out breaking something.
I am replacing the speakers on my doors, this is exactly what I needed!!
just to have a visual of where it was clipped down from.
Great post mate
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...well I'm just wondering if you could take out the trial n' error part in helping me out with what resistors you used, I have found similar LED boards but not sure on the dimensions of the ones you used... Any info you're willing to share would be greatly appreciated Charles
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For Skyline GTT if you want to do interior, number plates etc.
Front(X2) and rear inner sidelights(X4) - T10 501 capless or W5W(Same thing)
Number plate illumination(X1) - T10 501 capless or W5W
Side indicators - T10 501 capless or W5W
Interior map lights(X2) - 9mm bayonet(BA9S)
Middle interior light(X1) - 31mm festoon
Boot light - T10 501 capless or W5W
Rear outer sidelights and brake lights - T20 capless dual filament.
Rear indicators - T20 capless
Reversing lights - 912, T15 capless with 9mm base. Or you can use any bulb with T10 W5W base(IE 6/9 LED bulbs)
Courtesy of Skylineowners.com
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These look great Charles!!
Any chance you could send me PM me with the details so mine can look as awesome as yours??
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Nice find, I'm gonna give this a go
Anything to note about applying it??
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400kw? No, stock AFM is good for somewhere around the 220rwkw mark. At a guess you might have been reading something about someone who completely ditched the AFM altogether and went for a MAP sensor or something.
As for your economy, there have been bucketloads of threads discussing it over the years, but particularly with a stock ECU 400km to a tank is pretty normal around town.
I want to put in a PowerFC based on everything I have read so far, but it's something I will have to save some $$$ for first, when they do pop up, they're on the pricey side... but I figure if I'm getting better millage, the thing should pay for it's self in no time
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Excellent! ...nice descriptive post
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complete waste of time and money. also not possible with the standard ecu, your "nismo" mechanic is wrong.
unless your maxxing your standard afm (not gonna happen on a stock car) and have an aftermarket ecu a z32 afm is gonna do more harm than good.
I suspected as much, and also read that you don't need to upgrade the AFM until you hit about 400kw, so thanx heaps for clearing it up for me guys. Much appreciated.
I am going to stick on an Apexi pod on the stock AFM and see how that goes. Unfortunately, I am one of the unlucky R34 GTT owners that is lucky to get 400km to a tank of fuel,
so I will see what kind of effect it has on my millage and decide if it's worth keeping on, as my daily drive.
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i did mine, a few times actually..
it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway
what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..
Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end
When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.
it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy
Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..
you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..
..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems..
Thanx ARTZ, I'll swallow my fears of the unknown and have a go at it, might try to get some pix to post for everybody else
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black silicon!
google how to remove supra headlights and there are few tutorials on the internet to do it.
I know it might sound simple, but i don't want to just do something blindly, thanks dori34!
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Hi everyone,
as my question is related, i will ask this here rather than start a new thread.
Is a full tune required if I fit a Z32 AFM on my stock RB25DETT NEO ???
I want to fit an Apexi power intake pod filter, and I am not sure if I should go for the stock size, or to get a Z32 and a matched filter.
I spoke with my Nismo mechanic and he said that a tune shouldn't be necessary, but i want to here what others have to say....
Does anybody know of good places in Melb to get tune and stuff done? (i'm in west suburbs)
Thanks guys
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It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.
hhmmm, that sounds a bit of a challenge. What would i use to re-seal them?
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I was also looking at these:
Check em out Here
Fairly reasonably priced, what are peoples thought on them??
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R34 GTT... PM me with info, these look great!
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My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?
Where To Get A Proper, Quality Allignment?
in Victoria
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I'm looking to book in for an alignment somewhere not to far from North/West of Melb asap. It would be great if I didn't have to travel across the city for it... but I want it done properly the first time, without having to take it back.
Any good or bad experiences, recommendations or places to steer clear of, please share.