VL_Turbo
-
Posts
51 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by VL_Turbo
-
-
Even though it's not pressurised still won't work?
-
Update, tightening the rocker cover bolts and went a bit too tight and cracked the rocker cover near the bolt next to spark plug 4.
can I JB weld it or put some sealant and put it back on or do I need a new rocker cover? Any help would be appreciated 🤦🏽 -
Just a thought, could the ARP head bolts cause the issue? Maybe need retightening?
-
Ho All,
Have a small issue with my VLT.maybe someone could help. driving normal is good no problems, but when I press the accelerator ( every 1 out of 10) I hear like a bang noise ( similar to an intercooler pipe popping off noise), I then notice oil from the drivers side block but if you drive normally it doesn't happen.... Any idea what that noise could be and where it's coming from? )only on boost) 5psi.
you can see on the pic the inlet manifold gasket is wet from oil. Also noticed oil in the spark plug holes, but only happens on boost, drive normally I don't have the oil leak issue. What can make a "intercooler like popping off noise" and then leak oil on drivers side(only on boost) - see attached pic.
thanks -
Thanks to everyone on this forum for your help. I'm stoked. Car is getting tuned on will inform with the results.
very unusual thing happening, wondering where that loud noise is coming from the drivers side, oil should not be on the intake manifold gasket as per the pic above
-
Update.... car is alive!! After 4 flushes of oil no more contamination. Car is up and running and all is good. Thanks everyone for your help.
driving normal is good no problems, but when I press the accelerator ( every 1 out of 10) I hear like a bang noise ( similar to an intercooler pipe popping off noise), I then notice oil from the drivers side block but if you drive normally it doesn't happen.... Any idea what that noise could be and where it's coming from? )only on boost) 5psi.
you can see on the pic the I let manifold gasket is wet from oil. Also noticed oil in the spark plug holes, but only happens in boost, drive normally I don't have the oil leak issue. What can make a "intercooler like popping off noise" and then leak oil on drivers side (only on boost) - see attached pic.
thanks heaps- 1
-
5 hours ago, FiXtUrE said:
You want the Kelford cam, ones for na ones for turbo within the specs.
the crow cam is for na.
visit www.golbeysparts.au the have the turbo Kelford cam there 😎
Went the 226f / 274 cam
-
-
Can I put oil flush in it to remove the contaminated oil?
-
1 minute ago, Duncan said:
The extra detail does help. What was it that made you check for a headgasket issue in the first place if it never got hot?
alot of white smoke came out of exhaust.
I'm thinking it might be fine and the milkshake is just from the original failure. Try changing the oil again and see if it is getting better or still bad.
I'll get new oil now.
The coolant pressure test is a good check but it can miss an issue which only occurs when hot or at much higher pressures (like compression pressure)
I'll put new oil and leave it idling for 10-15 mins, will have to bed the new cam in as well. (Stage 2 Kelford 226F).
-
Done compression test came up as follows
1- 111psi, 2- 115, 3-119, 4- 120, 5-120, 6- 115
done coolant pressure test and not leaking or losing coolant and definitely not losing coolant via turbo drain. Puzzled is understatement atm.😳
-
21 minutes ago, Duncan said:
We might be able to advise you better with more detail. When you say
What did you notice happened, and what have you done since? For example,
did the car run hot?
Ran to half temperature, didn't get hot. Turned it off.
did oil/water mix in the engine, and if so how did you flush the block, oil cooler (if fitted), oil/water interchange (if fitted), radiator?
coolant and oil did mix, flushed the block via a bolt under the coolant line for the turb. No oil cooler fitted. But I did install a new trans cooler so avoided trans line connected to radiator.
did you use new head bolts/studs?
Yes, new ARP head studs and bolts 11mm.
did you get the head checked for straightness?
yes, crack tested, pressure tested, new valve stem seals.
after you prepped the block surface with a sharpening block/wd40, how did you check it for straightness?
checked with a straight edge.
-
1 hour ago, Duncan said:
Can you take us back to the start? Why were you doing the head gasket in the first place?
It is possible to get simple things wrong in this job....
Did you check every hole in the supplied head gasket matched the block and head orifices?
What procedure did you follow to tighten down the head? Do you know your torque wrench is calibrated properly? Are the head bolts still tight now?
Also I remember something about some blocks and needing to seal studs to the water jacket, not sure if that was rb30 though
Runt too much boost on a hot day with nearly 300,000ks on the motor. Old head gasket was worn out.
with the head bolts I followed the Gregory's manual. Used head stud and lube on the head studs.
will take rocker cover off and recheck the torque, I believe it was 97nm for head studs.
no idea about what you mean to seal head studs to water jackets?
-
Forgot to mention, took all spark plugs out and they were all the same (black in color)
should I try a leak down test or coolant pressure test? Thanks
-
1 minute ago, Ben C34 said:
you never needed to reduce comp, but anyway.
How sure are you that the block surface was all good ?
(used knife sharpening block)It is a nightmare getting old gasket off. how did you do it?
( knife sharpening block and sand paper on a block with wd40 and brake cleaner)
copper spray isnt a normal thing to do. how much did you spray on? Have you done that before?
3 layers of copper spray, no, haven't done it before.
( wouldn't compression test eliminate all this, came up good all the cylinders were even?
1 minute ago, Ben C34 said:the chances of the turbo being the issue are so slim, but you may as well check.
-
14 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
No. That makes it more likely.
Thinking of maybe replacing the Nitto MLS gasket and replacing it with a Genuine Nissan head gasket.
only went Nitto MLS due to it being a 1.2m thickness to reduce comp.
-
Did a compression test and all cylinders were even.
4 things come to mind.1. Head gasket - which I just replaced, MLS 12mm with copper spray for extra seal. (Not losing coolant )
2. CHRA - leaking through turbo drain and into sump ( coolant pressure test will confirm this tomorrow )
3. cracked head ( been repaired and machined. ( didn't even reach operating temp before unnoticed coolant in oil pan)
4. block (piston bores cracked)
more investigating 🤦🏽
-
16 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Only if the CHRA is completely cracked through. Which doesn't happen.
only way really to find out is if I Dona coolant pressure test, disconnect the oil drain and see if coolant leaks from there? Or the other option head gasket? But very unlikely as I just replaced it which leave maybe piston bores have a hairline crack? I dunno lost for words now.
-
Okay. Bit of a problem. Cranked the car over and my oil is milky 🫣 did compression test and came up good all the cylinders were between 115-120psi.
not losing much coolant and no bubbling or much pressure rushing out of the radiator.im thinking maybe the turbo is blown? Can coolant leak into turbo oil drain?
should I do a coolant pressure test and see if coolant is coming out of the turbo oil drain? If yes, I'm assuming turbo needs to be rebuilt. TIA guys!
-
-
1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:
To rotate the cam 180 degrees as per the manual you have to rotate the crank 360 degrees
Thanks bud. Will get back to you once I have done it. 👍🙏
-
-
34 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
You don't have a service manual?
It's been nearly 20 yrs since I changed a cam on an rb30.
Service manual foes say to rotate crank.
https://rb30det.com/download/r31-workshop-manual/?wpdmdl=33658&refresh=641d788a8ae221679653002
Thanks buddy, so I would have to rotate it 180* ? would that be from the crankshaft pulley correct?
-
3 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
Based on that description it's hard to know what the problem is.
Tdc could be on the exhaust stroke on the compression stroke. Either way bolting down the rockers will be easy on some spots and harder on others due to some valves being open and therefore you are compressing the springs when tightening the rockers down.
Are you using a torque wrench? Are you following the service manual?
Correct, with cylinder 1,2,3 rockers are bolting down easy in some spots and not so easy in other spots. Cylinder 4,5,6 no problems!
should I do 1 full rotation on crankshaft and then try to bolt the rockers down? Or can I just put pressure on the bolts compressing the springs down?
thanks
RB30 Head Gasket thickness for more boost
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Installed the catch can today, Hopefully that should de pressurise the crank a bit. I've read on the internet some people do use JB weld.
cannot find a spare rocker cover locally in south easter suburbs 😭