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Erop

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Posts posted by Erop

  1. Z33Fairlady, 10" width is a bit too much on the ftont. 9.5 +25...22 is the good choice for WB car. 10 inch wheel is as close to knuckle, as it is fitting fender outside. 10 with +25 or more with tyre wider than 245 will probably not fit because of the knuckle.so the +25 is the only inset for 10" rim and 245+ tyre.

    PN-MAD, either Black or white rims-i have to wash car twice a week to keep it red, not grey.

    • Like 1
  2. that's clear, your circumstances are known only to you - customisimg is to do what you personally need!) i ride my AR-X for almost 7 years and far more than 200000+ km of mileage , changed many suspension kits - OEM, Nismo - twice, bilstein, impul, BC, oem for tRS - for everyday drive i prefer Nismo's, they are perfect.... cause they are powerful, very high absorption ability is their feature. comfortable, but stiff. even on earthquake roads - you have them in city, we have it at whole country)) but these roads are OK for Stagea)

    my childhood dream is to visit your interesting continent, your country, i believe wonderful people live there) let me show you some pics - http://www.drive2.ru/l/4619962/ and http://www.drive2.ru/l/3481/

    it is wonderful to have trip, which has 7000 km in one way, without circles or turnings. you also have big distances, so i dream to cross Australia by car)

  3. There is no difference in shocks's sizes ! AR-X, tRS, NISMO's - are same in body length, guide-bar (or rod, don't know the correct translation) length, THEY are same!

    this is the main reason of AR-X front suspension's problem - it has very short place for wheel to move down (sorry, i can't explain it in english in right way!), so it's a problem for it to cross small obstacles.

    that's why i HATE OEM AR-X springs. AR-X is lifted up only by springs - and this is fail reason. surely, oem shocks may be different in absorbing ability, but not in geometry. you may use them safely, but i can't recommend to do this...

    • Like 1
  4. changed wheels to WINTER mode - don't know, if you heard of it, but i use studded wheels)

    gp sports gullflame gravity

    9.5+15 18"

    this wheels are really RARE 18's , which may work with Akebono BBK - it's diameter in front is a real problem - even BNR34 wheels can't fit it!

    245/50 tyres

    rear fenders rolled

    nismo s-tune springs&shocks

    5a4349cs-960.jpg

    180349cs-960.jpgf40349cs-960.jpg

    678349cs-960.jpg

    i don't like black colour of wheels, but it is as in is) thinking on grille replacement

    • Like 5
  5. Looks good Erop! Any significantly measurable drops in temperature?

    I popped another OEM AFM yesterday (I think that's my third?), I was only 1km from home though - so not too far to limp it. I fortunately had one of Scottys 'after market' units on hand so I swapped that in & it was happy days. Haven't bothered to clear the code yet, but its driving fine ;)

    i've never got issues in overheating even with old configuration, coolant temp never exceeded 93 C (as it was set on PWM controller - it has predicting algorythm, which turns fans on with low speed 5 degrees before, them pushing them to work harder), so i expect only decreasing time of fans to work.

    we have really hot summer just in 2 month ) now we are going to fall in cold winter)

    • Like 1
  6. new stuff from RU with love) 50 mm core CSF race radiator, SPAL fans, CNC custom made brackets. replacing 38 mm all-the-aluminiun no-name radiator and full-frame plate for fans (worked well, but i can't sit without new parts - i'm cooling fan)

    old one:

    3df85a8s-960.jpg

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    http://www.drive2.ru/l/820268/ - more pics by link

    replaced with real porn one)

    cc483ecs-960.jpg64483ecs-960.jpg

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    more pics - http://www.drive2.ru/l/4893936/

    am i right with welding temp sensor in upper bank?

    fans are precisely regulated by PWM controller, which reads from 1/8 NPT sensor (i use OEM, same as ECU's main)

    • Like 4
  7. this spring swapped 350z's Brembos to Akebonos. HUGE difference in brake power, with ENDLESS pads in brembo calipers and OEM nissan in akebono's

    in Russia akebonos are rather cheap - full new set is for 2000 USD, used is easy to buy for 1000 USD. Rears fits with rotors from G37S or M37S, not FX! fronts are ok with adapters

    c2129e4s-960.jpg

    9e129e4s-960.jpg

    THIS BRAKES WILL NOT FIT WITH WHEELS (tried personally):

    1. 18" BNR34's forged OEM wheels

    2. 18" CPV35's track edition

    that was pity, cause i had to sell all my winter rims((

    18" nismo LMGT4 fit perfectly.

    this affects inner diameter of wheel, not offset

    • Like 2
  8. these are from Z33. i've bought complete kit - fronts, rear, center console as it is on pics

    here is rear one:

    3789aacs-960.jpg

    also fitted 19" CE28N with custom paint 9.5+22 fronts with 245-40, rears 10.5+22 with 275-35. Rolled rear guards a bit)

    a5e8c0cs-960.jpg

    love this rims a lot. finish is custom, bought them in bronze, got mirror polished, then painted centers with acrylic matte.

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    wondered if there is no button to "cut" post, showing pics only on demand

    • Like 4
  9. Guys! once i've seen a pic of brigth yellow M35 Stagea in the net!

    spent hours and hours trying to find it again.

    May be, anyone have this pic saved or link to look at it?

    i would be wery pleased to be helped with this search

    Thank you in advance!!

    this is my pic :cheers:

    9189aacs-960.jpg

    • Like 5
  10. Scott, difficulties in translation) i missed with a problem)

    the problem i wrote is only for 2001-2003 cars with mileage over 200 kkm - probably, you are right, hard work with snow matters

    white bushes are too easy to find as a reason, for our severe circumstances)) - in Russia original spare arm with two bushes is around 10USD, replace and forget

  11. Guys, this is a common problem for 2001-2003 stageas and skylines. you don't have so much dirt on the roads - so your wipers don't used to be as tired, as ours, and it is not common on your sterile roads)

    you have to clean power distributor on the wiper's motor to remove gray dirt from the separating point oin the line, supporting the periodic duty!

    just look for some pics

    this is pic of my first Stagea. don't look at dirt - a wash engine room once in 3 month, but it has no affect...

    h-45.jpg

    h-43.jpg

    h-44.jpg

  12. DONT NOT GROUND THE RED/BLUE WIRE!!!! it is actually the cabin lights/parkers/tail lights!!!

    I think I've blown the BCM by doing so!!! FFS

    don't worry, fuse you need is third on left row in the vertical fuse box near the battery, you have to remove the plastic shield in the bottom of the glass to access it!

    it is called "tail ***", if i'm wrong on placement. surely you will find the reason in this box :yes:

  13. no one of tuners, whom i may believe, promise to be professional in setting F-con up.

    the HKS key is not a problem, local HKS dealer will let his power writer authority

    i'm scared of tranny - as we tried without the f-con, the main issue is in AFM signal! once ECU looses it, tranny dies. but it's top is 5V at nearly 300hp, how you solved this? is your AFM still in place with also MAP on board? have you ever told this anywhere?

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