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BlackBox

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Posts posted by BlackBox

  1. #1 Fibreglass Subwoofer Box to suit R34 Skyline.
    Can include Polk Audio Subwoofer For free but freight will be extra
    $250
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    #2 Shadow Pro Gauges 52mm - Volts, Boost, Oil Temp
    Includes boost sensor, oil temp sensor, extension cables and power supply cables. (Oil temp extension cable has plug cut off end that goes on sensor, new plug can be put on)
    $150
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    #3 Murrayis RB trigger Kit.
    Includes 2x Honeywell 101 Hall sensors and some mounting hardware
    $250
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    #4 Pro Flow Catch Can - Brand New
    $80
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    #5 Injectors x6 , I was told they are 740cc.
    I have had them refurbished which cost $120 - they have not been used since
    $120
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    #6
    Rb25 Cam & timing covers Engine cover

    Upper Timing cover is metal
    $200
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    #7
    Derale 16759 Electric fan controller

    Brand new
    $100
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    #8
    RB25det R34 CAS

    90,000 KM old
    $120
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    #9
    Sard Fuel Pressure regulator FPR

    $70
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    #10
    Air Conditioner Drier/Receiver Suit R33 Skyline

    Brand new never opened
    $80
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  2. Going to bunp this up again instead of making a new thread ;

    From what i have gathered the TCS/ABS and HICAS computers need to stay to keep the ABS happy,
    But what about the TCS and HICAS fuses in the engine bay?
    They are 15A and 20A fuses so i imagine they are for the rack and butterfly and can be removed. (If the computers are being powered from another location)

    I am relocating my fusebox so getting rid of them would give me another 2 fuse spots and save some wiring :)

  3. Hey all,

    While talking cars recently somebody has suggested that ABS works only with the OEM ecu, (R34 GTT)
    My years reading this forum i have never come accross this idea, although i cant seem to find anything to verify or deny that, it looks like it may be true for standalone options,  I would like to know if it is true for plugins specifically haltec platinum pro.

    If its correct and abs is no longer supported then is there anything else that uses the abs wheel sensors? (Launch control?) or are they made redundant.
    Is there a separate abs computer that could be removed? I also have removed HICAS and TCC - can i now remove the computers for those?

    Cheers,

  4. It goes to a bleed point from factory so that might be the best place to run it
    You are saying the bottom of the header tank may be the best place? Or the factory bleed point? (which i dont have)
    The barb on the back of the thermostat housing is only 3/8 and they say the bottom of the header tank should be fed by a hose 3/4 minimum..
    I also cant find a header tank with 3/8 barbs on it :/ and after playing around all day cant find a suitable location to mount a tank that would be high enough that clears my bonnet, plenum strut brace and theottle cable...

    If once it is initially bled it will remain so then i am really in favour of just installing bleed nipples, as long as the cooling system doesnt release gas/vapour during driving?
  5. Im also after some advice on my cooling setup,

    I am running a plazmaman Intake manifold and throttle body, and also a Haltec IACV so i dont have any coolant lines running to those.
    I have the turbo coolant returning to the back of the intake runners (Orange cable tie)
    And i was going to cut the nipples of the top of the runners and tap and plug those (Blue/Yellow, Yellow/Yellow)
    And also Plug next to the thermostat housing.

    Does this sound alright or am i going to have stagnant flow and airpockets in the intake runners?
    The other option is for a swirl pot, but in the strive for simplicity and aesthetics i would rather not install one unless needed.

    Cheers,

    Mani.jpg

    mani2.jpg

    thermohousing.jpg

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