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Gt-r_James2

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Posts posted by Gt-r_James2

  1. Hey folks,

    I no longer need these parts.

    RB26 A/C compressor. I bought this from a Jap wreckers and it is in excellent condition. may fit r33 and r34 A/C systems. check this before buying. Not many of these around. $200

    Nismo Supercoppermix single plate clutch. Removed due to upgrade, pletty of meat on the friction plate. these cost 2k new. $200

    RB26 factory BOV pipe/flanges. Not with factory recirculation valves, Calibre BOV (to atmsophere) on one flange and a cut plate closing the other. $50

    R32 Gt-R Factory air box with near new K&N filter. Defected? this will get you out of trouble. $130

    Interested? send an email to [email protected]

  2. Hey folks,

    I'm thinking of selling my 1991 BNR32 Skyline. It's a shame because I've sunk a lot of money it and I absolutely love driving it but these days I rarely get the chance to drive it and my work schedual is only going to increase. So, if you're after a well treated and lightly modified gtr keep on reading.

    It has 107,XXXkms and recently received a $3000 service and tune at Leading Edge Performance in Petersham (soooo many things replaced/upgraded - have all receips). Whilst there the turbos were friction coated so there's lots of life in them. They are still the factory ceramics but they spool faster than N1s so I'm happy.

    Modifications

    • Greddy turbo timer (installed in japan)
    • TurboSmart E-Boost 2 boost gage/computer. A great peice of kit, still have operators manual.
    • Mongoose alarm/immobiliser
    • MOMO steering wheel
    • Sony deck, kevlar speakers in the front and JVCs in the rear.
    • Stainless Steel turbo back exhaughst with high flow cat (have $3500 receipt for this)
    • Apexi intake/pods with custom cold air box. comes with factory airbox and K&N panel filter
    • Carbon fibre valley cover
    • Yellow jacket coilpacks
    • 800hp fuel pump
    • Front and rear strut braced
    • Lowered suspension on Gt-r struts
    • Cross drilled rotors
    • Immaculate R32 gtr wheels with near new Pirelli P7s
    • Nismo Supercoppermix clutch (single plate). I got this second hand and haven't installed it yet. an excellent and expensive clutch
    • D1Spec oil catch can. Not installed yet, still in box.

    The car has a folder an inch thick full of import documents and receipts. Most of the above mods have receipts. This gtr has a good service history as indicated by a bunch of receipts. They go back a long way, you can trace the car from Japan through to me. It has some cool factory stuff like Skyline mats and Gtr keys, as well as the r32 gtr sales brochure in Japanese (may souvenir this).

    Steering and suspension is damn tight, this thing corners likes nothing I've ever driven before, always in control. Your girlfriend may not like it though because it's stiff.

    All electrics work, no funny lights on the dash like.

    The doors, front floor, parcel shelf, rear quaters and boot has been covered in Dynamat Superlite. This made the stereo sound much better and reduced the general crap road noise, you can still hear the turbos though.

    For a 21 year old car it looks pretty good but there are some scratches and dents, and the paint is fading on the roof and wing, nothing major though.I bought this Gt-r to drive, not to look at, so if you're after a show car maybe look elsewhere. That said though,if my car had immaculate paint I'd ask a bit more. The interior is average for a 32 gtr, small tear at the bottom of the drivers seat, a dash bubble above the glove box and a scuff here and there. It should clean up pretty well.

    Very strait. Never been in an accident, no rust under the body inthe sills etc.

    The A/C ain't working. The compressor seised. I have a new compressor that will come with the car if I don't put it in beforehand.

    The engine and drive train are in excellent condition. It never misses a beat. very responsive through the rev range with this current basic set-up. Currently running 10psi with an in-cabin switch (E-boost) for 8 or 12psi. Was dynotuned with each of these settings, will post figures when I find the print out. I'm very happy you to arrange a mechanical inspection.

    Registered til June 2013.

    I'm asking $14,500. This is negotiable. I don't need to sell it though so please no low balls.

    Contact me via email [email protected] post-90396-0-28443900-1341747718_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-70707900-1341747806_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-29701400-1341747926_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-97313500-1341748134_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-66532800-1341748216_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-90272000-1341748334_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-33687100-1341748423_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-79764300-1341748771_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-13509100-1341748976_thumb.jpgpost-90396-0-83800000-1341749034_thumb.jpg

  3. Yeah I plan on testing the voltage at the computer end when the weather clears up. Can you post the wiring diagram you mentioned? I couldn't find where you put it on Austech, The 32 Gtr manual would be awsome as well!

    One of the caps looked burnt out and took it into jaycar for a second opinion and guy I spoke to said it looked fine (??)

    For others out there with this problem I stumbled accrossthis part http://www.nengun.com/do-luck/digital-g-sensor I think I'll persist in tyring to fix the factory unit but if your at the end of your tether than its a better option than forking out 2K to nissan.

  4. Thanks for the recommendations,

    I rang the Nismo crowd at Seven Hills and may get the friction plate from them however they charge $110 and hour for labour so I think I'll give up a weekend and do it myself.

    Mrstabby, great post regarding the clutch install/swap. Roughly how low did it take you to do the clutch? The Nismo workshop reckons 8 hours for there guys, I'll double the time for me to do it.

  5. Excellent post Carbon!

    I'd love to do the jump start trick, I dont have access to another car where I study but when I next visit my folks/shed I'll use my vl to do it. Great idea!

    I reckon it must be the RCA cable because I've eliminated most of the other options. I un-plugged the ariel, no change. The battery (in engine bay) is fine , I did the swap trick with my other car's battery yesterday with no change. The deck and amp have good earths (thick wire on sanded back chassis with a fat bolt). The head deck with previous speakers didn't whine so I think the deck isn't the problem. when I connected the ipod to the amp I used another AV cable (2 jacks converging into one) and no whine.

    The noise comes from all speakers, I've tried biasing it front-back, left-right etc, the whine didn't change.

    When I was at Jaycay this arvo (getting a capacitor for the G-sensor that shitted itself) I explained my stereo predicament and the dude said I could plug in a groundloop isloator right there in the carpark and if it didnt work I didn't have to pay for it. It worked and I bought it. Generally its not my philosophy to use band aid solutions but for $10 the sound quality got much better (fully sick) and it saves me time screwing around with the car instead of enjoying it. When I get another RCA cable (known to be good) from my bro I'll re-wire the stereo and know for sure where the glitch is.

    Ah, the joys of cars.

  6. Hey guys,

    The clutch in my mostly stock gtr is on the way out and I plan of replacing it with a Nismo supercopper mix single plate. I bought the nismo clutch second hand and want to get the friction plate replaced, I went to Sydney Brake and Clutch exchange and was quoted $180 for a Zinc mix friction plate (they couldn't get a nismo plate in). Are there any stockists/workshops in the Sydney area that anyone would recommend for me to get a nismo friction plate?

    Can anyone recommend a workshop in Sydney's Inner West to get the clutch installed? I was originally planning on doing it myself but would be happy to save myself the effort and get a mechanic to do it if the quote isn't too steep. Speaking of which how much should I budget for a clutch install and flywheel machining, parts supplied?

    cheers

  7. Tell your GF to shutup

    Clearly you have been watching too much Dr Phil. Daytime television is bad for you. Bad.

    I don't understand either why people do half the things they do to 'modify' their cars, I think the previous owner's favourite pastime was chopping. Cables, hoses, metal panels, whatever, just so long as he needlessly destroyed something a future owner might appreciate his day was complete. Related to this I've finally found some factory BOVs and will replace the atmo BOV from Super Crap Auto that attracts the wrong kind of attention (Bros and Cops).

    I re-earthed the alternator this evening with 8ga cable and heard no/little difference. Tomorrow I'll un-plug the antena, do Carbon's RCA cable trick and get very shity if neither resolve the alternator whine.

    Will keep y'all posted

  8. Thanks for the link GTRPSI,

    I'll find someone to replace caps in my G-sensor soon, hopefully this will return it to its proper function, I'm getting tired on hooning around in an overpowered Gts-t.

    Anyone have recommendations for somewhere in Sydney that can replace two caps on a circuit board? I'm all ears.

    Thanks

  9. yes try the rca cable trick I told you to do outside the car , sometimes the shield can be grounded on metal in the dash or loose. but outside the car to the boot it cant hit it. any old working rca can do it or a cheap as chips one.

    8ga or 4 ga ground your alterator bracket to the chassis always it helps in every way besides the stereo..... ground at the factory bolt after you clean the paint rust and crust off.

    explain your battery age and condition , photos ? where are you pulling power for the deck? does the sony deck have a filter on the power line either one ?

    remove your antenna jack and test again, ground loops can be front floated grounds in antennas. are you using a diversity spliter on the antenna? is it soldered and taped or plugged in or freq convertor if so remove it if it has one you dont need it on aus decks .

    I want to point something out not to be the dick head to you ... or say told ya so, but this is one of the installers worse nightmares, a boot full of "free" handme downs , and a previously hacked up car. and engine noise

    at some point you yank the lot and bench test it on a battery or power supply. we would cringe at it in the first place and bench test everything first to save hairloss

    the alternator whine can be your battery in bad condition as before. your battery can filter out noise a fair bit. if its corroded or old it wont ,

    does the whine come from sub or which speakers ? deck power or amp powered ones ? what brand of amp. US Audio silver -blue one by chance or sony xplod red and silver one

    whine can be induced by rca running past ecu or fan motors

    Hahaha, you're not a dickhead mate you're just honest. I tend to get myself into these situations and if it weren't for guys like yourself i'd be screwed.

    The battery is tagged 05/2011 and is topped up with distilled water. The Sony Xplode 52Wx4 deck was in the car when I bought it (couple of months ago) and did not whine with the previous speakers. I don't know if it has a filter and it gets its power from a modified factory loom.

    The whine comes from all the speakers, I can't pick up a whine in the bass. The amp is a Cadence 'FX500' 5 channel.

    I'll run an RCA cable outside the car when I get one from my other shed, while I'm at it i'll unplug the antena. The antena is just pluuged into the deck and I'm not sure if it has any of the stuff you were talking about.

    While I was at Jaycar returning the noise filter I bought some 8Ga cable and will re-earth the alternater, even if this doesn't fix the stereo my car has some electrical gremlins so I'm happy to do it.

    Thanks for advice guys

  10. Thanks Carbon 34,

    I really appreciate the link, I'll try to determibe where the group loop problem is tomorrow. Alternator whine is a major bitch and I can't wait to get rid of it.

    The parcel shelf has been butchered (not a surprise given what the previous owners/morons have done), hopefully the speakers will fit though.

    Thanks again.

  11. , still Hopefully one of you guys can help me out,

    I'm part way through installing a stereo in my R32, Sony Head Unit, splits in the front, 6X9s in the back, big amp and single big sub. So far I have deadend the doors and boot with Dynamat Superlight.

    When I was taking out the existing (crap) 6X9 speakers I noticed that they were bolted to a home made peice of chequer plate. So my first question relates to the parcel shelf. Should I put the (heavy) chequer plate back or fabricate one myself out of MDF board? or could I just put Dynamat on the the car body/parcel shelf, bolt the speakers on and put a fitted mat over the top? How would this effect sound quality?

    I've wired everything up apart from the rear speakers and am shitted by alternater whine. The RCA cable runs on the opposite sill to the power cable and it is earthed to the chassis, and it still whines! I spoke to the (not so helpful) staff at jaycar and was sold a "10A DC Noise Reducer", after patching it in there was still a whine. So, any advice? what should I try/do next? I have already plugged AV cables into the RCA ports and played my MP3 player through the stereo without the whine.

    Any suggestions would really be appreciated because I don't know much about stereos and am copping shit from the GF for having a crap stereo

  12. AHA! So thats a potential reason why I still get error 11 or 13 after adjusting the pots to 2.5V.

    I have the G-sensor out and would like to take it to someone with a clue on how to fix these things/check the capacitors. Any recomendations? autoelectricians, computer technicians, Jeff......?

    I split my time between Sydney and the Central Coast and any reference to helpful/experienced people would be great!

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