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sn00p

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Posts posted by sn00p

  1. Got my attention, so just just a couple of questions...

    Who performed the conversion?

    Who engineered the car?

    Why are you selling?

    Do you have power figures?

    How much boost is it running at the moment?

    Stock RB25DET turbo still?

    Has the car been raced/driven hard/etc since the conversion? (I know I'd be tempted :P)

    Are you decided on a cash sale, or up for a trade?

    If willing to trade, what kind of car would you be interested in?

    If not, would you accept $14500 straight up?

    Cheers for any answers, looking forward to pics when you get them up...

    Engine mainly put in by myself and was tuned by Colins Auto Broadmedow Newcastle. Engineering details can help u with.. certificate not on me at moment.. Selling because i live in the centre of Sydney no reason for a car at this stage in life..Should be pushing around 170-80rwkw.. however not been dynoed.. Stock boost always has been.. stock turbo.. Has been driven hard at times.. never raced.. always looked after..

    Cash only..

    Call me to talk Numbers.

    Come check it out. you wont be dissapointed

  2. Nissan 180sx 1991 Black

    Rego till november

    Everything on car engineered.

    Engine & Running Gear

    Complete Rb25det Conversion

    RB25 Gearbox

    RB25 Radiator

    Engine and Box 80000kms

    5 Puck brass button clutch

    Turbo Back 3" Exhaust with Cannon

    K&N Pod Filter

    300*400*75 FMIC

    Custom S/Steel Piping with Silicone joins

    HICAS Removed

    Splitfire Coilpacks (new)

    5-stud conversion

    R33 front brake conversion

    S14 rear brakes

    R33 Brake Booster

    s14 Wheels

    Interior

    Type-X '180sx' front seats

    JVC KD-LH2000 Headunit 50*4 MP3

    8" Rear speakers

    Amp

    Splitfire boost gauge

    Price $14000 ono

    Heres the pictures guys!

    http://img105.imageshack.us/my.php?...imgp04335wp.jpg

    http://img83.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp04341rw.jpg

    http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/6004/imgp04352mb.jpg

    http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/3415/imgp04360bt.jpg

    http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/2276/imgp04379eu.jpg

    http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/9490/imgp04384ml.jpg

    http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/5518/imgp04396nm.jpg

    http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4863/imgp04401oy.jpg

    http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/7041/imgp04415fs.jpg

    Located Sydney CBD

    Please contact 0402 442 934 for enquires or email [email protected]

  3. i have used the following instructions:

    posted on this site

    Originally Posted by jomsy

    quick rundown on how to do it, remove the following parts

    1- fan shroud and engine fan,

    2- intake cross over pipe,

    3-leave intake manifold on head, just remove fuel hoses, and wiring, and some other hoses you will see then if you forget them when you lift of the head

    4- crank angle sensor and covers and make index marks to put them back in the same place

    5 all the belts, a/c , steer, alt

    6- put motor on top dead center

    7- remove balancer and lower cover breaker bar against the chassis and use the starter motor to crack the bolt which is 1-1/16 or 27mm, maKe SURE YOUR IGNITION PACK IS DISCONNECTED.

    8- mark camgears and crank gear with liqud paper in (ie put a dot on the gear and on the belt)

    9- loosen tensioner and remove belt the tensioner is a 14mm nut and needs an allen key to turn away far enough to remove tension and make it easy to reassemble

    10- take of plug cover and rocker covers

    11- drop the exhaust at the dump pipe or just use a 17mm open end spanner and remove the turbo from the manifold (4 nuts) and leave the manifold attached to the head

    12- remove turbo feed hoses (the hardest bit of the whole job) then you can leave these on and the turbo will hang on the exhaust dump

    13- you may have to remove the cams to get to the head bolts just check i can remember its not hard at top dead centre there are indents cast intop the cams to allow you to access the studs with a 10mm hex drive. Buy a good quality one.

    14- remove head bolts

    15- get someone to help you lift the head off, check nothing is still attached, ie hoses wiring small bolts

    16- idealy get the head checked, get a razor blade and scrap away the old head gasket

    of head and block then sand it with some wet n dry cleanlyness is the key hear

    17- wipe down with a clean rag and re assemble in the reverese order, just torque up the head bolts to correct tensionHead torque settings

    These are the specs I used on my last rebuild engines

    Head is torqued down in 5 stages.

    1. 22ftlbs

    2. 72ftlbs

    3. slacken off

    4. 22ftlbs

    5. 75ftlbs

    I have undone all the 10mm hex studs where the cams are and can see the other one at the front driver side of the head but am not sure where the other bolts are located...I think they might be under the inlet manifold - Do I need to take inlet manifold off to get at these (whereever they may be)?

    Thanks, Ben

  4. Im planning on changing head gasket this w/end as it is blown. Has anyone done this recently? Just trying to get a bit of info before I start it.

    So far I have headgasket, timing belt and water pump.

    Any other parts I have missed out on.

    Any tips/tricks that anyone knows of, anything I should look out for?

    Thanks.

    Ben

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