my_gtr32

I know that, you know that but a mechanic at this shop I unfortunately took my car to obviously didn’t.

Hi Mate, yes I do. Kent and Sons.http://www.kents.net.au/ They may help. I had a U channel fabricated to fit over both rails where the jack point or hoist pad would sit. The rails are easily damaged by jacking if you don’t be careful and distribute the load with a piece of timber or something. Good luck with it. cheers

Hi, no the part you looked for is not the right one. I need the tie rod shaft. 48521 is the first bit of the part number. What is the full part number? I don't have camber bolts but have adjustable upper arms. When I purchased the car the right front wheel always needed the upper arm to be 10mm longer than left to match camber. This screws up caster and ride height. I changed the right arm and now I only have 0.5 degree camber on the right where before it would have been over 2 degrees. That is a huge change so a little variation of the LCA length (from ball joint to ball joint), makes a big difference to camber It measures 315mm on a GTR LCA. Standard upper arms are 178mm long on a R32 GTR, so if you lower the car to 350mm from hub centre the camber will increase to 1.4 degrees or so. With the right LCA marked 3405U, camber is 0 degree. I have it adjusted as short as possible which is 175mm and I get 0.5 degree instead of almost 2 which you would expect. I have never heard of any direction the ball joints need to be installed either but why is there markings on them and mention in the service manual that many do go in a certain way. A few millimetres difference in the length of the LCA is all that it takes to resolve the issue. I either have another bent arm (unlikely) or it simply isn't the correct part for a late model R32. All I have to go by is the numbers stamped in the arms. I need to match these numbers with the part numbers you have given me. Nightmare. Cheers

Thanks Steve for your help. Based on the markings on the LCA's I have, is there anyway to know which is the correct ones? Also I have noticed the inner and outer ball joints have markings and most likely a certain direction they need to be fitted. The service manual does not tell me much. Any further info in FAST? The outer ball joint has the following markings, 8 7 or L and R. I bet the bloody ball joints are around the wrong way. This would explain the difference in camber. I will check R faces the right side of the car. There are markings on the inner ball joint too. I has the letter B and the other the letter A. No idea what that is all about. I will remove both LCA's soon and double check orientation. Also, can you tell me the part number for HICAS steering rear rack end for my car? BNR32-301183 Cheers Peter

Hey, thanks Randy. My VIN is BNR32-301183 . The arms on my car have H2405U (Left) marked in the casting. 5H05U (Right). The right one seems to be the problem and increases neg camber more than left. I fitted another right arm marked 3405U and drastically reduced camber to zero. I'm pretty sure the left one is correct and camber is where it should be. Only things it could be is the 3rd link or maybe the cross member? Car has no signs of major damage that's been repaired so I'm thinking the original arm is bent and I need a replacement 5H05U. Thanks again for the quick reply mate.

Hi Members, I'm after a set of both front and rear Whiteline lowered springs to suit R32 GTR. There was a group buy on these years ago and wondering if anyone has a pair / set laying around they no longer want?. Cheers

Hi, I fixed my leaking tail lights over the weekend using SikaLastomer-710 is a butyl rubber based sealant as per the great tutorial in the DIY section. I purchased 3 cartridges and only used one and a half for both tail lights. This product is hard to get in small quantities as the manufacturer no longer sells a single tube but only a whole box! Garb a bargain, one and a half tubes for $25 plus postage or pickup in Melbourne (Highett). Plenty for both tail lights and stop the water getting into your boot and rusting your 32.

I recently replaced the gearbox in my R32 Gtr with a brand new R33 GTR series 3 box. Tried Castrol Syntrans first off and found shifting less than great especially when cold. Next up was Redline MT90 and went on a test drive. Straight up it felt great, but the next cold winters morning, not so great until it warmed up. Shifting first to second was difficult. After this, I tried MT90 with 250ml of Nulon G70. This did make a difference but cold shifting is still not great. I'm thinking of giving MTL a try as its a bit thinner than MT90. Not sure about using Lightweight shockproof in a new gearbox. Used it before in my old box and it seemed very good. These gearboxes DO NOT shift real well when cold even when new. Take my word for it! It doesn't help when using a Nismo twin plate clutch either, as the syncro rings need to control the speed of the input shaft with the added weight and mass of the clutch assembly for a clean gear change. Not sure what to try next??

Anyone? You need 4.2 litres for a GTR box. This saves you buying that extra bottle for 30 plus bucks!

Bump, will get pictures soon. Negotiable on price

I have a spare set of front and rear callipers from a 93 model R32 GTR. If you don’t know, these are four piston front and two piston rear, alloy callipers and are in good condition, except some moron ground the Nissan logo's off the front callipers to allow some ill fitting wheels to clear them. Therefore, they are going cheap! Great upgrade for Silvia’s and other Nissans. These were on my car and worked fine. I will post pics soon. Looking for $180 for Front and $120 for rears. Will separate or $280 the LOT. Pickup available from Highett, VIC or willing to post for extra $$

Woops, Syntrans is actually 75W 85 not 75W 90. Typo, sorry

Hi, I have a spare one litre bottle of Castrol Syntrans 75W 90 synthetic gearbox oil I don't need. The bottle seal is broken but oil not used. This sells for $30 plus per litre. Looking for 15 bucks. Pickup from Highett, near Moorabbin, Vic.

That's what I was thinking. The main reason for using this block is the strength and the weight advanage. Gtr's are very front heavy with the 4WD bits not helping. If you were building a race engine with a big buget, this block would be the way to go. Does anyone know a car running one of these engine blocks?