MARRIOTT

I am willing to try any options - what size are they?

Need wheels and tyres to pass RWC (have 18x9.5 at the moment - they won't pass them). Happy to pay in beer and a CD of R32 GTR workshop manual 800pages!. Need them in melbourne pref eastern suburbs. Thanks, Greg

Deperatley need to borrow rims and tyres. Will give beer and 800 page GTR manual on CD to anyone who can lend me wheels and tyres for 1 day to get RWC. Will pick up etc hopefully from Eastern suburbs melbourne. Very desperate!!!

C'Mon someone must have a set lying around in the shed. Happy to give Beer and CD copy of 800page GTR workshop manual for 1 days use of wheels & tyres. Very desperate!!!

Anybody got a set of roadworthy stockies that I can borrow for a couple of days. Happy to reimburse with beer. I got busted in RWC for 18x9.5's. Thanks, Greg

My 32 GTR has just started showing signs of rust above the rear wheel. Looks like when the guards were rolled they filled them in with bog which has trapped moisture and caused rust. Anyone know a good panel shop experienced in rust repairs like this? Thanks.

Look in Tutorials/How To section under list of members tutorials

You're better off replacing the idler. You'll kick yourself if you have to pull the whole thing down again in 10000k's if the idler gets noisy. They're only about $70 - do it now or suffer the pain.

Hi Deren, When I did mine I replaced tensioner and idler bearings, water pump and the timing belt at the same time. I also replaced the Idler bolt and the tensioner stud as they sometimes break. I got the bearings from Bearing Wholesalers in Bayswater, the pump from Bursons (it is the same as VL commodore - some say that there is a difference but only the RB20 is different from the VL commodore) and the belt from Nissan in Oakley. Shop around a few Nissan dealers for the belt as I was quoted up to $120 but eventually got it for $80. Total cost for the whole job was about $350. Cheers.

Deren, glad you got it off. I used the same method in reverse to do the bolt back up. Its such a large bolt with fine threads that there is no chance of stripping it, so I did it up as hard as I could with the breaker & extension and then whacked it a few times. Hasn't come undone so far. Cheers.

Hi Deren, I replaced my 32 GTR timing belt a couple of months ago and had a god awful time getting the crank pulley bolt off. The "breaker bar on chassis rail and crank the starter" method does not work on RB26's as the bolt is torqued too tight - it works OK on 25's and 20's as their bolt has half the torque of the '26. This is how I got mine undone: 1. Car in 4th gear, hand brake on as hard as possible, helper in drivers seat with foot as hard as possible on brake. 2. Breaker bar on crank bolt with long pipe (1.2metres) on breaker bar handle. 3. Put as much pressure as you can on the end of the pipe with one hand and hit the pipe with a decent sledgehammer with the other hand. You really need to put a lot of pressure on the pipe before you hit it or it won't work. 4. 3 hits and my bolt finally came loose and no damage was done - have driven 5000k's since timing belt replacement with no problems. I know it sounds agricultural but after 6 hours trying to get that bastard bolt undone I would have tried anything! Hope this helps.

Not sure if you've got the bolt undone yet but I had the same problem with my 32R a couple of months ago - this is how I undid it. Use a breaker bar with a 1.2m pipe extension over the handle. Put the car in 4th gear, pull on the handbrake as hard as you can, get someone to sit in the car and stand hard on the brake pedal. With one hand put as much tension as you can on the bolt using the breaker bar and extension (I mean hang off it!) then using a sledgehammer whack the pipe as hard as you can and hopefully the bolt will loosen. I gave mine about 4 whacks before it moved. I tried the breaker under the chassis rail and hit the starter method but that just stalled the starter. I think this only works on RB20 and 25's as they have 1/3 the torque on the bolt that the RB26 has.

Yep I checked connections and looked for obvious damaged hoses and couldn't find anything. Going to try the ATTESSA bleed switch tonight to apply hydraulic pressure to the ATTESSA actuator without needing to drive the car - hopefully this will show if there is a leak.

I was driving up a long hill at constant speed of 110kmh yesterday and I looked in the rear view mirror and saw a cloud of blue smoke. Holy sh_t! I pulled over expecting blown turbos, etc. but there was no smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. I then looked under the car and it was dripping with oil - the smoke was coming from oil being sprayed onto the exhaust pipe. When I got home I got under the car to find the leak and it appears to be coming from the ATTESSA actuator on the back of the transfer case but it's hard to tell as I can't get it to happen again. Any one experienced a problem like this?

I've had my 89 Gtr for about 2 months now with the following issues: All 4 discs had to be replaced - very rusty & couldn't be machined. Bad rust in panels in front and behind both back wheels Crushed rails behind front wheels Rust in undertray around rear suspension mounts. Worn suspension bushes. Other than the rust problems (it looked like the car was stored close to the ocean) the car is in great condition and now that I have fixed the above it drives like new- very tight and no rattles. To anyone who has lost an accessory gauge - have a look under the steering column - mine was unbolted and cable tied under the dash by the Jap supplier to stop sc_mbags stealing it in transit. It took a few weeks to realise this - I thought mine had been knocked off too! Cheers