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Posts posted by kastin
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I Have one in perth bnr32 box from a front cut with front left hand damage, slides through the gears fine, but i havent ever had it in another car.
$500 plus postage.
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i Still have one for sale
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So that belt drive is needed for A/C & P/S?
Yep spot on.
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Is anyone using an ATI harmonic balancer ?
I just want to know what part number balancer they are using...
when i bougt mine 2 months ago
ATI917752 $1035 + GST/nil stock. (RB26, direct bolt on,-R32 for cars making 600-1000HP)
ATI917753 $1035 + GST/in stock. (RB26, direct bolt on,-R33-R34 for cars making 600-1000HP
form rocket industry's
Make sure the one your getting has serpentine belt drive unless it's a race car
But u can get them at perfomancewholesale.com.au for around 1000
cheers
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Any reason why it was knocking more when using water/methanol injection?
He just upgraded the turbo, on the old setup he was at it's limits with the water injection, with the new setup he gets the same power without running things on the edge and he's still yet to add the water.
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R33_racer,
so your getting about the same power as your old turbo? or is this just a mild tune?
Cheers
Jon
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Anyone used these or have any information on them, are they upper market or just shit?
Cheers
Jon
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err blow off valve!
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Well ive basicly done the same
Ceramic coated and dry lubed Pistons
Ceramic coated valves
Ceramic coated combustion chamber
19inch davis craig thermo
Davis Craig electric water pump
Oil Cooler
3 pass desert cooler radiator
Are Intercooler
Cold air intake
Pre turbo Water injection
Pre Plenum Water injection
Jon
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i didn't think cylinder pressure had anything to do with static compression ratio? ie u can have a 170psi cylinder at 7:1 or 170psi cylinder at 10:5
Or am i wrong?
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email sent,
i'm in perth but will pay for reasonable postage.
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anyone comments of my sump?
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still needed?
Anyone?
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how much is methanol? where do u get it from? mixture is 50/50?
and how quickly would u go through a 10l tank?
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I dont mean to sound old but at 200kmph stuff comes up pretty bloody quick, and the car has alot more force then you think..
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Ok Guys after reading alot about oil setups, i'm a bit worried about my sump, i am retrofitting a rb30det into an old Lc gtr torana, the sump has been modified dramaticly to fit, it looks like this
Now the front of the pan is pretty thin i am worried about not being able to fit any baffles(not enough room), so i might get a fair bit of crank dipping, also the oil may take it's time getting back to the pickup area (which is quite small doesn't look like it can hold much ) does anyone know if these are going to be an issue? the motors going to be putting out around 500rwhp
Ive been looking at dry sump setups just incase. and i have an idea... if i run a scavanger pump from the bottom of the pickup area in the sump to a remote tank situated above the engine. then at the bottom of that remote tank have a large pipe gravity feeding to the exsisting n1 oil pump pickup,
Will the n1 pump have enough suction to pull oil from the top remote tank.. it will be pulling basicly strait down, so gravity will be on it's side..
Is the sump going to cause me problems?
Or does it look like it's going to be fine
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awsome keep us posted!
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i think i read somewhere that every 10 Degrees above standard moves peak power 500rpm higher but i dunno if this is true, But if the cams become effective at 6000rpm that leaves 1000rpm till orange line 1500 till red.. not really much fun..
i was hoping they would really kick around 5000 and hold to well past redline..
Gavs graph has sure kicked a few stones, i mean he got more midrange and earlier moving from a 264 to a 272 inlet cam!
Suppose ill have to wait and see as the heads finished..
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I'm now running 272 "STEP2" cams (around the 11mm lift) on both inlet and exhaust.
The originally I was running a 264IN, 272EX, however changing to 272 on both I gained both top end and midrange. See the following graph
Unfortunately it's shown in speed rather than engine RPM, however you get the idea.
Oh yes - the idle is really "tough" now
What turbo are you running? t04z?
and what was your redline?
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anyone else with some input?
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search is ur friend.
failing that buy a manual.
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Or mabey your just reading whats printed..
gt3582r .63 is rated at 500 hp
gt3582r .82 is rated at 610 hp
gt3582r 1.06 is rated at 700 hp
It's Known fact.
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agreed gt3582r FTW!
but go the .82
on your motor the .63 will more then likely surge like a bitch.
but the .82 will see full boost well before 4k and is rated at 700 hp
while the to4z is 750hp
gt3582r .82 is rated at 610 hp
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ahh good old west coast highway
Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
WOW,
so glad i found this thread,
have you spoken to an Engineer about getting it registered?
i have a 71 LC GTR, and started putting a 3l with 26 head & single turbo in it a few years ago (on hold for now), i bought the 32 front cut, and always pondered about using the 26 sump and making a AWD torry (GTR into GTR) , but my skills are nothing in comparison.
and i was really worried about NCOP's as they where just coming out then.
keep up the awesome work