SoulScene
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Posts posted by SoulScene
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Awesome thanks guys, just after a quick fix for now so the car is driveable so 10psi will be fine.
Gearbox needed rebuilding, turbo went and then got rear ended to top it all off, all in 14 days. So unfortunately the turbo got the quick/cheaper fix for now -
Basically my op6 r34 turbo is dead, for a quick fix will the 21u r33 turbo (highflowed) as i can't afford the gtx3076 just yet but need the car on the road. As far as I'm aware it'll bolt on, and being highflowed would assume it'd be same/better than a standard op6?
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Hey guys, not sure if this is the correct place to post so please feel free to move it.
When my engine is cold my turbo will whine like crazy at the slightest hint of boost, but give it 5-10 minutes and it's back to normal. In those first few minutes, it will boost to max 2psi then after that will boost up to the 12psi. But when I'm not on boost the gauge will sit below 0.
The car is stock, other than a FMIC, Coils Packs and Exhaust. (RB25DET NEO, R34 GTT)
Is this a leak? Or is the turbo on its way out?
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Up for sale is my gaming PC.
CPU: i7-2700k 3.5ghz
GPU: Geforce GTX 580 Gainwind 2GB
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3R
Ram: 16gb Consair Vengeance
PSU: 1000w cooler master
Storage: 2TB HDD & 240GB SSD
Comes with two Asus LCD 26" screens and a razor Lycosa keyboard.
$1000 or make me an offer i want it gone soon. Located Hoppers Crossing Vic
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DO NOT GO ACES mechanical repairs !!!
Other than that there's point cook mechanics at the end of old geelong road before bridge.. There's always heaps of cars there and I also go there with peace of mind
Going to Loui's performance tomorrow but I'll check out those guys! I found alot don't do turbos. Most pointed me to loui's
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Hey guys,
New to vic, moved up from Tassie wanting to know of some good mechanics/workshops around Werribee, Hoppers Crossing, Point Cook areas. Have a rather large boost leak and would like to get it fixed asap. All help appreciated
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I never got mine to fit, after measuring the stock and aftermarket U clip the size difference was just to big, Flush fit bonnet pins and metal safety catch on the U clip so if the pins fail the bonnet won't fly up and smash the windshield/roof
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I had a similar problem with a carbon bonnet without pins, unbolted the latch assembly and filed out the bolt holes so it could be bolted higher up gave it the extra height for the U clip to click into place
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Hey guys,
Just had my R34 coupe resprayed, when pulling the doors apart for the spray we got to the door handles and the rubber seal was completely destroyed. Is there somewhere aftermarket to get them? Or genuine Nissan only?
Sorry if this is the wrong area to post, just assumed it was to do with a respray it'd be the best place.
Cheers
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Wanted:
R34 Bonnet (After market or stock. Aslong as it's not damaged)
Located Launceston, PM if you have something
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Sorry Scotty, just missed your post.
Mine was very evident before I replaced my clutch.
New throwout bearing with clutch, new gearbox fluid (Nulon smooth shift). Noise quietened down, but still there.
Did you notice a change in the noise with the clutch change?
*edit* More noise with clutch change....
I only noticed it a handful of times before the clutch was replaced, not very often at all either. I got the clutch replaces along with a lightweight flywheel and new trans fluid on Monday and I've noticed it alot since, but it's the same noise as before it was replaced.
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Hey guys,
Lately I've noticed a strange noise/rattle coming from the front of the car at low revs, between 1-2k revs.
I noticed it awhile back on and off, but I just got the clutch replaced and I notice it alot more but it still doesn't do it all the time.
Example, slowing down for speed humps, 2nd gear just sitting around 10-20kms put the foot down to speed up again and the weird rattle noise appears but hit 2-3k revs and gone car sounds normal. Also does it taking off at lights sometimes aswell, does it through all gears if I let the revs drop to much without changing down gears.
Anyone know what it could be?
Cheers
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in my 12 years experience, my opinion now days is f**k it.. get a good stock motor and put quality supporting mods on it and quality tuning with e85 and make good strong reliable power.
ive built motor and blown them up, due to the silly little things that can go wrong, so financially im better off running an OEM motor with mods.
my car is proof of that, stock RB30 with 26 head, all supporting mods. 412 rwkw on 22 psi and it gets thrashed...HARD
The only downside to E85 tune would be the lack of places that sell it close by to me. As far as i'm aware the closest place to me is 2-3hours away. So for now anything i do will be 98 pump tune. So you also think i should stick with the 25det neo and just support mods on that? The engine sits standard at the moment with just shy of 160XXX Kms on it.
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Have you tried the search function or Google?
Here is the guide (in the very first pinned thread in the RB30 section):http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf
and the third pinned thread in the RB30 guide is the RB30/26 guide.
Then at the top of the forced induction section you can see results including what was done for RB30/25 and RB30/26
I did try the search function, As i said. But thank you for being a smartarse and linking me the page and telling me other places to look.
Why dont you work your original engine for your power goal?
Keeps the car legal, im sure your local police may not be too happy finding out its a RB30 with a 26 head in a GTT.
For the power your chasing its not worth the effort, use what you already have.
Its Tasmania, We don't have defect stations ever
I figure i will want more power down the track its just a starting point, unless you can push the same amount of big power out of a 25neo as a 30/26 -
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Use the NEO head.
NVCS Yo!
Really? From what i've been reading most people go against using the NEO head? All in favor of the 26
!and way better comp comp ratio with stock pistons.
op, you have a lot of reading to figure out what you want.
I know there is alot of research left to do, but i can't seem to find any kind of basic guide/build threads out there i can see that would help me to a point. I'd say i'm aiming for around the 300-350 rwkw mark, being that the egine won't be in the car for awhile i'll have change to change mind and forge internals if i want to go down that path. Just need a push in the right direction to get the ball rolling
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Hey guys,
I've searched and i can't seem to find what i'm after, so i thought i'd ask.
I was looking at buying a RB26DETT to put into my R34 GTT, But after looking around and talking with people. I've been swayed into looking at 26/30 builds. Only downside to this is i have no idea about them, the benefits or what is needed to build one/cost of it all?
If someone could explain the benefits of doing this and rough list of parts/costing. Not chasing huge power at the moment but down the track that will be the goal.Cheers in advice
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In Launceston Tasmania everyone wants to race still, weather you're at the lights or already cruising along a highway people just see a Skyline and want a race no matter what they're in... I enjoy driving like i love it, but when you can't just go for a cruise without a thousand dickheads wanting a race it makes me sad.
Had a commodore line me up the other day, I looked over and he was just revving the date out of yelling at me though the window... I look in the backseat and he has one kid in a babyseat still and a second kid leaning over the top of the babyseat with no seatbelt on... It made me so mad that someone can be so careless with other peoples lives at risk in there car. I know they don't care, but its people like that, that give us all a bad name and reputation.
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Guessing that's a no for SAU members then. Might stick around for the drifting it's always good
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If you mean the SAU Nationals track day than there will be plenty of SAU peeps there mate
I have no idea its this Saturday, I travel for work different place every 3 weeks. Got told there is a track day at Mallala thought I'd go check it out
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In Adelaide for work, heard there is a track day. Any SA SAU members going to be there?
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Had this problem about 2 months ago, generally it's a blockage in the hose/nozzles if you can hear the motor going, I just disconnected all the hoses and cleaned them. Then as you did grabbed and needle and got the exact same crap as you did from the nozzles
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I get on average 260Kms a tank with my GTT aswell. Engine wise it's completely stock. I've cleaned AFM changed the fuel filter, fuel filter was completely clogged I noticed a slight difference in fuel consumption, maybe I'll have to go for the O2 sensor and new plugs see if that helps as well
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I've never seen plugs for them, Although I like the idea! I like taking the try off but it was always a pain when it rained because you have to screw it back on
Just sticking plugs in the vents with the bonnet closed would be decent
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Yeah I have a set off bonnet pins for justjap already, don't want to risk it againdont forget to fit bonnet pins, i did mine with aerocatch flush ones for added security
Thanks for all your help guys, awaiting a reply from seibon now for postage quotes
I figure i will want more power down the track its just a starting point, unless you can push the same amount of big power out of a 25neo as a 30/26 
!
Loud whine op6 turbo
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Started about a week ago, when cold go near boost and I'd hear the loudest whine coming from the turbo and boost would peak at 3-2psi. After 10-15 minutes it'd be back to normal boost back to 12psi fine no noises.
Now the is a constant thing, as of the other morning it still makes boost but the smallest amount and that horrible noise. Car basically has no power behind it anymore. Being a standard op6 turbo wouldn't it make zero noise if the comp wheel was blown? As it'd shoot it out the exhaust
From a visual inspection the cooler pipes are all on and tight, turbo base gasket maybe? Or is the turbo just stuffed