FBRacing
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Posts posted by FBRacing
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I agree, I have had this head f*ck a few times. It can be a pita to find, depending what pin it is. I swore the issue was dry joints in the ecu last time, but it was just the pin in the ecu plug had opened slightly.
I do know a guy that had the same issue also. He had to re-pin his ECU. Problem solved once done. Just figured it was just isolated deal for him since he swap a RB into a S chassis.
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The lines to the cooler are after the torque converter, they won't tell you the line pressure off the pump outlet.
Have you installed the trans cooler? Usually the trans needs to get to a certain temp before the TCU will shift properly. Temp is much more important than pressure imo.
You are probably looking at 250psi or more pressure at the pump.
I do have a trans cooler. About 30cm x 30cm with a fan. It's a manual valve body like Ben said. 250 psi!?! That's a whole lot more than I figured. Thinking around the 100-150 range
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I must admit I'm not super excited about the car being auto when I first bought it but it sure pulls hard when everyone else is shifting. Was the first thing to go but life gets in the way. I've talked to auto gurus about it but they really can't say themselves. Know what the pressure would be with stock internals? Some kind of baseline to go off of would be helpful. Thought about going to an oil and lube shop to get a trans flush. Most lube shops use a machine to flush the trans fluid out that have a pressure gauge for flow. Only prob is I'm not sure what's good or bad
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It's a stock box with upgraded internals.
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How low are you going? Pulling fenders? 4 doors have a different rear quarter panel than two doors so I'm not sure how that'll turn out nor really can help you. Front, suggest a 30-35 or more. If you already added 20 in front because of arm, it'll add more camber and length right off the bat and will affect normal setups cuz it messes with hub location. I have Driftworks lower and uppers. I'm running a 18x9.5 +30 245/40 w/ -1. It sticks out a few but not much. This might be a trial and error adventure for you. Find some buddies with different wheels to find the offset for you. Bribe them with beer if needed.
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Stock mine didn't last long with 280kw (so I stuck a GTR box in it). Beefed up stockers are allegedly good for 500hp (depending on who built them) but i don't know for how long.
Thanks for your input
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Hey guys is there anyone out there running 9inch wide rims with +35 offset on a r33 gtst i have been researching to see how they could fit with but havent had much luck
Start from page 1 on this thread. Just about every wheel/tire configuration has been done.... especially on a R33 GTST.
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If you have side feed injectors (i.e. stock or aftermarket), yes they will be high impedance. If you have top feed injectors, you could be running lows. You can only run lows using an aftermarket computer. Stock ECU only runs high impedance.
These are Nismo 550cc side feed at high impedance.
These are aftermarket top feed that can be high or low impedance depending on your personal engine build goals. Easy to spot. The stock side feeds are purple in color if I remember right.
Here is a website that can help you more with specs:
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Start the car. Take a screw driver and put the metal tip against the injector. Put your ear to the end of the handle. You can hear the injector clicking, it's working. Go thru all 6 and learn what to listen for. This is the first step of diagnosing a bad injector. Step two is ohm resistance. With the motor off, unplug the wire clip to suspected faulty injector. Use a multi-meter to read ohms. You're looking for anything that is not in the 14 ohm area plus or minus 1.5 ohms. You'll use both prongs of the multi-reader and touch each of the injector electrical prongs. Polarity won't matter. This will tell you if the electrical coil is bad inside. Unfortunately they cannot be rebuilt and the whole injector will needed to be replaced. If replacing a single injector, it's wise to remove the rest and having them professionally cleaned and flow matched to the new one.
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That's what I'm afraid of. It's getting softer and softer. Drove it last night and it felt even more "slushy". Does a stock manual hold 400kw or will it need to be built?
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I don't know who built the trans cuz it was already built when I purchased the car. Have receipts for parts but no receipt for install. Upgraded clutches and bands, manual valve body conversion, upgrade input and tail shaft, and a 2800 stall. Have a 10 pass trans cooler with own fan. Bought the car almost as is and 3 injectors went bad. Long story short, wanted to retune the car with the new injectors. Trans is super strong but when driving it around the block after intense dyno runs I thought it shifted weird. Could have been a fluke or just in my head. I've always had bad luck after a dyno run. Something always breaks.
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I've looked from start to finish in every thread, my books, and on the web and I can't find the answer. What is the pressure for the inlet/outlet for the auto in a R33? Trying to diagnose to see its in parameters. Just reached the 400kw at wheels and I want to watch what trans is doing on the dyno on Wednesday when we dial it in better. Also if I just put a tee in the cooler line, would it give me an accurate reading? In my head it wouldn't. If I'm right, any ideas where to tap into?
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Diagnose is the first step. When I build an off-road race truck (this is common practices for all Motorsports), I'll cycle the suspension up and down ... side to side. I'll do this by lifting the chassis from the ground, removing the coil springs from the shock and replacing shock back in. Mount wheel and tire on hub and begin moving it to full compression to full drop. Look for interference from the chassis, fenders, etc. Next go full steer lock and go up and down again. This will help identify steering issues. Ball joints will give play and rock with the rubber boots destroyed. Look for rubber bushings worn and bolts not being centered in those bushings. Use a jack under the tire with your car being support by jack stands. That will aide in moving the weight up and down. Safety first. Never get any limbs under the car and watch your fingers when moving parts around. If you can't do this yourself, get a buddy to help or have a professional do it. After you figure it out, parts search... Nissan Fast will help you there which 99% of us have. Next time you post a problem in the future, post a lot of pics and try to explain the problem to the fullest so these guys can help. Most of us really don't want to ask 100 questions to help and most of us get tired of repeating ourselves. Nismoman along with others were accurate in their response. Normally you are to research and make sure the wheels fit before you buy or sell those and buy wheels that do. Have a great one buddy and best of luck.
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9 wide with +35 will work. I'd be looking at other parts. Good luck
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But I do run driftworks suspension with custom Tein c/o
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I run 18x9.5 +30 front with 245 and 18x10 +35 rear with 265. No issues.
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Correct and only if you have stock suspension components
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You shouldn't rub on the knuckle when the tires straight and do once turned unless something is bent, broke, or misaligned.
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Yeah only at full lock fb racing
Take a look at the upper and lower ball joints. It helps if you put you car in the air and remove the wheels. Grab your hub and move it side to side and up and down. Shake it. If there's a lot of play, replace the joints. Up and down will tell you ball joints. Side to side will tell you steer joints. If all is ok, look for paint chipping or cracking on your upper and lower arms. Also look for metal distorting and fatigue. The front geometry on the r33 suspension runs without flaws if camber is set at zero.
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Are you only rubbing at full steer lock?
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Maybe someone has it installed and would like to share pics
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Don't know. Wanna get rid of my double din radio and slam that in my r33. Price tag is crazy.
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