benro2

Hi guys, Does anyone know anything about how to clean the SARD Sports Ex (not the "+" model) pod filter? I've also seen it referred to as the Power Intake - although I thought Apexi also used that name... Here is a link to the official site's product page, although this is the Sports Ex + model (I think the only difference being that you can remove the top). Here is a link to the Sports Ex + at RHD Japan, has a good closeup of the material. It looks like it's just paper and the official site says it's a dry filter. I blasted it last night with the manual petrol station tyre pump but it didn't seem to take out that much dirt. I also found a post on OzFoz.com (had to sign up specially just to see it!) and someone said they used the "solvent from the K&N kit" and it came up fine. What is this solvent they speak of and can it possibly harm some of the resins or anything that may be used? Any help would be much appreciated - I cannot believe how hard it is to find info on this filter!!

Really sorry guys I've taken this long to get back to you. I had Christmas then holidays interstate, just no time to do anything! I can scan all the instructions as requested, however see quote below. Maybe I'm using the wrong cable! Also, the kits I'm using are both prebuilt and tested. I can post photos if it turns out my cable is in fact the correct one. I will have to look into this cable If it does turn out to just be that I will be furious!! I'll double-check the cable just to be sure I do have the correct one. When you say they fit the plugs, do you remember if they will actually show anything on the display? Mine appeared to be working as designed for a while. I do actually have the original instructions and Silicon Chip book/mag so will look through that about switching maps - I can't remember reading anything like that. Not saying it doesn't, probably just means it didn't read it properly I've actually already started removing the kits from the car as I had an incident the other day where the car just cut out on its own. I think it's because a couple of the power cables touched (through some sticky tape somehow) and now the voltage readout on my ECUTalk is all over the place. Normally it's a fairly stable 13.5-13.8V but now it's anwhere between 10.5-13.5V. I measured the voltage on the battery and inside the engine bay and it's dead on 14.0V but the ECU must be seeing the voltage that the ECUTalk is showing as my idle speed has increased by about 150 rpm. When the car is off it shows a stable 10.8-11.V instead of 12.6V, so I know something is up here! I'm pretty much ready to give up but if this cable is the answer I'll reinstall them

I actually bought a prebuilt kit from eBay (after my initial kit I built didn't work a few years ago ) - have a look here. I *think* all the kits are the same but just check with them first - it works with my R33 GTS-T. It is definitely a Jaycar DFA - I have opened it and checked it out Unfortunately, you have to buy it with the hand controller, but after contacting the seller they were willing to drop the price a bit for me. They also responded quickly to my questions so overall pretty happy. As you will see, the hand controller is a different shape to the Jaycar one but I can confirm that it does work with both the DFA and IEBC.

Thanks for the help! I'm not at home right now so can't scan anything, but will try and get to it tonight (I'll be very busy all night). However, I didn't actually build these kits (this time around). They were purchased pre-built and tested. They were working for a couple of weeks, seemingly without any problems. It's just when we had a torrential downpour that they started playing up. Possibly that's a total coincidence? I've had other electrical problems with the ECU that I thought were caused by rain, but the other night something happened that may have disproved that. Now I'm not sure if it's a problem or some automatic cycle the ECU goes through (car runs slightly rich and stutters on the highway at the SAME point in my journey, but only on a particular journey - really weird). The kit should definitely work with my car. Plenty of people have it working on a Stagea which is essentially the same or very similar to my car, and I'm sure there are others with it working with my car too. Haven't been through the original massive thread on it in a while - I did read through it once a few years ago If you're interested, that thread is here.

Thanks for the help! However, I cannot see either of the images you posted. Perhaps SAU's photo server is temporarily down? Really?? I didn't know this! I even have a remote mounted switch in the centre stack so I could switch between boost levels! Dammit. What happens if you do switch between boost maps with the engine running? I've already done this several times, didn't seem to do anything (when it was working LOL)?? Also, to try and stop this thread getting any longer, if you wish, you can post replies into my own problem thread here. Thanks! Also when you say "exact correct cable" do you mean there are other similar types? I've got a cable that fits perfectly and passes all data through, but are you saying there are copies or others that don't quite fit?

Hey guys, I've got an annoying problem with frying the 10 Ohm resistor in the IEBC. I've started my own thread for this here. Please help!

Hey guys, I've got a really annoying problem with my Jaycar boost controller (IEBC). It keeps on frying the 10 Ohm resistor near the large transistor with heatsink on the 12V power supply circuit (ie: where power goes in). The resistor glows red hot for a few seconds and then burns out, at which point the kit stops working. Sometimes when set on high boost the Hand Controller just shows a blank screen (with backlight), yet on the low boost setting it appears to be working without any problems. However, I did have these kits working for a couple of weeks when I first installed them. Then one day it poured rain and I noticed the glowing hot resistor. I replaced the resistor a while later and started the car, and had the Hand Controller connected, and in high boost mode. The resistor started burning with a few seconds. It wasn't raining either. A bit of a back story: I built the Jaycar Hand Controller, IEBC and DFA (Digital Fuel Adjuster) some years back and I *thought* I had made some mistakes in both the IEBC and DFA as they would continuously burn out resistors (probably the same one as what's burning out now). At that stage I had a different (stock) ECU which has since been replaced with another stock ECU. The DFA and IEBC have also been replaced with pre-built and tested units, yet now the IEBC still burns the same (?) resistor as before. So that's good in that I likely built the kits correctly, but bad in that I have no idea what could be causing this problem. I'm certain the signal wires are going to the correct pins in the ECU as I'm getting usable readings on both kits (I also did on the original kits/ECU too). I'm hooked into the same pins as the original kits (including power supply pins). I'm using Injector 1 as the signal for the IEBC. So I'm thinking that it's the 12V power supply that is somehow providing too much voltage. I'm no good at diagnosing these things as I have very limited knowledge of electronics so I can only guess. Am I missing something here? How would I test for this? How is it possible for the ECU to be passing through such a high voltage that it fries this resistor, yet the ECU itself is fine? Any help is much appreciated! It's probably been about 5 years since I first built these kits and I would REALLY like to get them working!

Could I please add 3 spectators? Ben Roddy Glen Daniel Nathan Bulmer Thanks!

Hehe I'm confused... rgb were you with us? We had an orange Supra, white Silvia, me in the charcoal R33 GTS-T (stock), charcoal R33 GTR V-Spec Series III, johhny443 in the white R33 GTS-T w/ GTR wing, a Ford Fairlane (!) and Ford GT (?) and a black R34 GT-T. Was that you in the R34? Didn't see any Clio's around though?

We're out at krispy kremes now... And yes you can still get a donut White Silvia, orange supra, charcoal r33 GTR, charcoal r33 gtst.

Hey guys, the guys are on their way to telstra stadium at the moment, should be there around 9.00. They'll prolly hang around for about 30 mins and then make their way over to Liverpool krispy kremes. They said it's fine if you guys meet them at either place. They might be keen to go on a cruise from there.

Hey mate, I was talking to you on FB earlier and said I wasn't available but now I've got a couple of friends interested. Is it still happening? Details?

Bump! Cmon people, surely someone wants these? Make me an offer!

Hey guys, 2 things to sell: 1. R33 GTS-T Series 2 Auto ECU (VVT part doesn't work, otherwise fine) - $30 2. ABS relays (in box - at least one relay is broken) - $10 Buyer pays postage. Postage is $10 for ECU, $5 for relay box, anywhere in Australia. Some notes: The ECU was working fine until my VVT solenoid was fried. That part of the ECU was also fried. Not sure which caused which, but I do know that the car used to drive fine, just without VVT control. I replaced this ABS relay box with another new box as my ABS light was showing. From my research, usually it's just one of the relays inside that's fried, and you can either just replace or sometimes fix them.

All items are SOLD pending payment!