benro2
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Posts posted by benro2
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Really sorry guys I've taken this long to get back to you. I had Christmas then holidays interstate, just no time to do anything!
gotta love jaycar kits. could you please scan all the insructions and post them? and a clear top-view picture of your completed product? cant do much without knowing what im looking at
you say it works fine on low boost which makes me think you have assembled the kit correctly. i have the small turn-knob style boost controller and the instructions say the kit was designed for a WRX, so there could be problems when trying to adapt it to other systems other than what it was designed. you dont have the same kit but the same rules apply\
very interested in solving this problem. keep us updated and good luck
I can scan all the instructions as requested, however see quote below. Maybe I'm using the wrong cable!
Also, the kits I'm using are both prebuilt and tested. I can post photos if it turns out my cable is in fact the correct one.
If you got the cable as specified in the kit it should be fine but there are other cables which fit the plugs but are not the right spec and cause melt down as you have described.
The excerpt i sent you seems to have lost the photos, possibly because the thread is now quite old but you should be able to identify the parts to be checked if you have a diagram. If you haven't, let me know and I will dig one up somehwere.
I have thrown away the original instructions but still have the book some where and remember it warning me not to switch between maps on the fly.
Hopefuly checking the values and orientation of the parts suggested will provide a solution!
I will have to look into this cable
If it does turn out to just be that I will be furious!! I'll double-check the cable just to be sure I do have the correct one.When you say they fit the plugs, do you remember if they will actually show anything on the display? Mine appeared to be working as designed for a while.
I do actually have the original instructions and Silicon Chip book/mag so will look through that about switching maps - I can't remember reading anything like that. Not saying it doesn't, probably just means it didn't read it properly
I've actually already started removing the kits from the car as I had an incident the other day where the car just cut out on its own. I think it's because a couple of the power cables touched (through some sticky tape somehow) and now the voltage readout on my ECUTalk is all over the place. Normally it's a fairly stable 13.5-13.8V but now it's anwhere between 10.5-13.5V. I measured the voltage on the battery and inside the engine bay and it's dead on 14.0V but the ECU must be seeing the voltage that the ECUTalk is showing as my idle speed has increased by about 150 rpm. When the car is off it shows a stable 10.8-11.V instead of 12.6V, so I know something is up here! I'm pretty much ready to give up but if this cable is the answer I'll reinstall them
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UPDATE!!
I went to the Jaycar website to buy one of the DFA kits (Digital Fuel Adjuster, Jaycar catalog# KC5385) And cant find them anywhere; I have a feeling they have been discontinued..
However after a little more searching I found a similar kit
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5490&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=965#11
Which im pretty sure is the kit which supersedes the classic DFA kit which we all know and love...
It says in the blurb that it can adjust air/fuel ratios by adjusting the voltage so yeah.. pretty sure it will do the exact same job..
Peace
I actually bought a prebuilt kit from eBay (after my initial kit I built didn't work a few years ago
) - have a look here. I *think* all the kits are the same but just check with them first - it works with my R33 GTS-T. It is definitely a Jaycar DFA - I have opened it and checked it out Unfortunately, you have to buy it with the hand controller, but after contacting the seller they were willing to drop the price a bit for me. They also responded quickly to my questions so overall pretty happy.
As you will see, the hand controller is a different shape to the Jaycar one but I can confirm that it does work with both the DFA and IEBC.
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Thanks for the help! I'm not at home right now so can't scan anything, but will try and get to it tonight (I'll be very busy all night).
However, I didn't actually build these kits (this time around). They were purchased pre-built and tested. They were working for a couple of weeks, seemingly without any problems. It's just when we had a torrential downpour that they started playing up. Possibly that's a total coincidence? I've had other electrical problems with the ECU that I thought were caused by rain, but the other night something happened that may have disproved that. Now I'm not sure if it's a problem or some automatic cycle the ECU goes through (car runs slightly rich and stutters on the highway at the SAME point in my journey, but only on a particular journey - really weird).
The kit should definitely work with my car. Plenty of people have it working on a Stagea which is essentially the same or very similar to my car, and I'm sure there are others with it working with my car too. Haven't been through the original massive thread on it in a while - I did read through it once a few years ago
If you're interested, that thread is here. -
It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1. So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors. I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);.
I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct. Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out. The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above.
Hope that is of some help:cheers:
Thanks for the help! However, I cannot see either of the images you posted. Perhaps SAU's photo server is temporarily down?
And another couple of tips - make sure you have the exact correct cable to connect to the hand controller and DO NOT switch between maps with out turning the engine off. On my one I made sure of this by by-passing the switch so that I only had one map.
Really?? I didn't know this! I even have a remote mounted switch in the centre stack so I could switch between boost levels! Dammit. What happens if you do switch between boost maps with the engine running? I've already done this several times, didn't seem to do anything (when it was working LOL)??
Also, to try and stop this thread getting any longer, if you wish, you can post replies into my own problem thread here. Thanks!
Also when you say "exact correct cable" do you mean there are other similar types? I've got a cable that fits perfectly and passes all data through, but are you saying there are copies or others that don't quite fit?
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Hey guys, I've got an annoying problem with frying the 10 Ohm resistor in the IEBC. I've started my own thread for this here. Please help!
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Hey guys,
I've got a really annoying problem with my Jaycar boost controller (IEBC). It keeps on frying the 10 Ohm resistor near the large transistor with heatsink on the 12V power supply circuit (ie: where power goes in). The resistor glows red hot for a few seconds and then burns out, at which point the kit stops working. Sometimes when set on high boost the Hand Controller just shows a blank screen (with backlight), yet on the low boost setting it appears to be working without any problems.
However, I did have these kits working for a couple of weeks when I first installed them. Then one day it poured rain and I noticed the glowing hot resistor. I replaced the resistor a while later and started the car, and had the Hand Controller connected, and in high boost mode. The resistor started burning with a few seconds. It wasn't raining either.
A bit of a back story: I built the Jaycar Hand Controller, IEBC and DFA (Digital Fuel Adjuster) some years back and I *thought* I had made some mistakes in both the IEBC and DFA as they would continuously burn out resistors (probably the same one as what's burning out now). At that stage I had a different (stock) ECU which has since been replaced with another stock ECU. The DFA and IEBC have also been replaced with pre-built and tested units, yet now the IEBC still burns the same (?) resistor as before. So that's good in that I likely built the kits correctly, but bad in that I have no idea what could be causing this problem.
I'm certain the signal wires are going to the correct pins in the ECU as I'm getting usable readings on both kits (I also did on the original kits/ECU too). I'm hooked into the same pins as the original kits (including power supply pins). I'm using Injector 1 as the signal for the IEBC.
So I'm thinking that it's the 12V power supply that is somehow providing too much voltage. I'm no good at diagnosing these things as I have very limited knowledge of electronics so I can only guess. Am I missing something here? How would I test for this? How is it possible for the ECU to be passing through such a high voltage that it fries this resistor, yet the ECU itself is fine?
Any help is much appreciated! It's probably been about 5 years since I first built these kits and I would REALLY like to get them working!
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Could I please add 3 spectators?
Ben Roddy
Glen Daniel
Nathan Bulmer
Thanks!
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Hehe I'm confused... rgb were you with us? We had an orange Supra, white Silvia, me in the charcoal R33 GTS-T (stock), charcoal R33 GTR V-Spec Series III, johhny443 in the white R33 GTS-T w/ GTR wing, a Ford Fairlane (!) and Ford GT (?) and a black R34 GT-T. Was that you in the R34? Didn't see any Clio's around though?
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We're out at krispy kremes now... And yes you can still get a donut
White Silvia, orange supra, charcoal r33 GTR, charcoal r33 gtst.
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Hey guys, the guys are on their way to telstra stadium at the moment, should be there around 9.00. They'll prolly hang around for about 30 mins and then make their way over to Liverpool krispy kremes.
They said it's fine if you guys meet them at either place. They might be keen to go on a cruise from there.
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Hey mate, I was talking to you on FB earlier and said I wasn't available but now I've got a couple of friends interested.
Is it still happening? Details?
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Bump!
Cmon people, surely someone wants these? Make me an offer!
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Hey guys, 2 things to sell:
1. R33 GTS-T Series 2 Auto ECU (VVT part doesn't work, otherwise fine) - $30
2. ABS relays (in box - at least one relay is broken) - $10
Buyer pays postage. Postage is $10 for ECU, $5 for relay box, anywhere in Australia.
Some notes:
The ECU was working fine until my VVT solenoid was fried. That part of the ECU was also fried. Not sure which caused which, but I do know that the car used to drive fine, just without VVT control.
I replaced this ABS relay box with another new box as my ABS light was showing. From my research, usually it's just one of the relays inside that's fried, and you can either just replace or sometimes fix them.
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All items are SOLD pending payment!
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if those are r33 series 2 stock coilpacks i will take both sets
Cheers!!
Yes, they are for Series 2. PM sent.
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Good to see a realistic price on airbox!! Good luck with sale of gear but doubt you will need it.
Thanks for that... all items are sold pending payment already!!
Yes, when looking around for airbox prices I was seeing up to $300!!... but that was with the snorkel. Wasn't sure if that's why they were so expensive?
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Hi guys, I have the following things for sale:
2 x sets of stock coilpacks (in Splitfire boxes, but they are NOT Splitfires!) - $10 each set
1 x stock R33 airbox w/ AFM (pink label, series 2) - AFM possibly broken, box is fine - $60
1 x AFM (in addition to one above), pink label, series 2 - AFM possibly broken - $10
1 x K&N Panel Filter (used) - $10
Please note: I am selling these items as is. I was about to throw them in the bin as I'm doing a major house cleanup, but thought I may as well put them up here just in case anyone was interested.
Shipping costs will be on top of the item cost, but I will only charge you at cost. I would say the smaller items should make it anywhere in Australia for $10 or less, while the airbox may be up to $20.
Other notes:
The AFM's were not working for me. Both of these were on my car at some stage and were working fine, but were then replaced when they started playing up. I have tried spraying AFM cleaner on them and they still didn't work properly. I have seen a couple of people say these can be fixed, however.
The airbox is for sale since I already have my own on my car. I bought one of the AFM's off another forum member and he gave me the whole airbox too.
The panel filter is dirty as I have had it on my car for a while, and had to take it off since the cleaning oil was stuffing up my AFM.
The coilpacks have both been on my car and were causing slight misfires at WOT. I have tried siliconing one set but this didn't seem to make a difference, so I bought a set of Splitfires. The other set of Splitfires I sold onto a friend for his own car, hence the second box
I know a few people have managed to get their originals back to normal so buy both sets and pick the best ones! -
Great drive today guys! This was my first "official" cruise too (and this is especially bad considering I've had the car nearly 6 years.. - look at my join date!!). I was the guy who brought the charcoal stocker
Getting it buffed and detailed next weekend so should look substantially better next time!Really enjoyed the twisties, especially down Jamberoo Rd. Macquarie Pass was very slow as we were stuck behind a bus though
Also good to actually meet some of the people from the forums too.
Will definitely come on another one! Just seen the Putty Rd cruise - might give that one a go but it's pretty long... probably won't have any tyres left after that...
Thanks for organising Gemma! Hope we can do another one soon!
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Sounds like you have a very similar problem to me and i cant work it out either... if i find out anything ill post it up...
FINALLY figured it out! Yep, it was the AFM
Bought another one off ebay, plugged it in, runs like new!Between us all hopefully we'l get this sussed. This morning I got in my 32GTR, started it, let it warm(for about 8mins like I always do) and drove about 1k around the corner. Cruising at low revvs my car started to shudder and then began to decelerate as if I had taken my foot completely off the gas. For a few seconds it sounded and felt like it was 5 cyls short then died. It would start but still running like a truck so I gave up not wanting to do(more) damage. Round 3 hours I returned with tools and a fresh tank of patience only to have the car start and slowly drive me home.
Benro2, I apologize for encroaching on your topic but I feel as if these are similar probs.
Does anyone have any suggestions or are we at least in agreement that I should go down the same path as Benro2?
Cheers in advance all.
No probs, I know exactly how you feel
Turns out I had about 3 problems all at once which makes it VERY hard to diagnose, but from what you've said above it just sounds like your AFM has had it. Easiest and probably cheapest thing to do in your situation is just to replace it with a known working 2nd hand one (ebay will have a few 2nd hand parts suppliers who will give it usually at least a 2 week DOA warranty).If that doesn't work, I'd be looking at wiring to ensure you don't have a short somewhere like I did. If you do have a short it's more than likely not going to be in the same place as mine (being a totally different car as well LOL) but mine was right on top of the exhaust manifold heat shield. There is a little bracket there probably to tidy up the wiring and the cables around there were loose and causing problems.
Also, because of the above problem, it kept on blowing the fuse for the fuel pump. This must have been getting worse and worse because the car stalled a couple of times but would start straight afterwards, but on the 3rd time it just wouldn't start (obviously blown fuse at that point), and from then on, every time you replaced the fuse and attempted to restart, the fuse would blow again straight away. So once the short was fixed, replacing the fuse made it all good again.
After all that, VERY happy it drives like new now!!
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Hey, is your AFM still available?
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While its a bit doughy down low boost comes on very hard when you give it some stick.
I was running an EBC but took it out for rego and never bothered putting it back in.
Sounds like my Supra
The previous owner put it into TTC mode (and did a very "permanent" job too) so I've just gotten used to it like that. I figure I may as well if I ever wanna go big single Even with an EBC it's got pretty much no boost until around 2.5k, full boost around 3.5k. Apparently this is a lot better than what others are getting (I'm running a PowerFC and other mods) - they don't get any boost until 3.0-3.5k or full boost until 4.5k!If your EBC wasn't making any diff then I spose no point putting it back in. Are you sure you had it tuned properly?
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Is this for the Supra or the Skyline.
If the Supra the stock twins have next to zero boost control when fitted with an aftermarket exhaust
My TT Soarer is auto, and never have a problem controlling wheel spin in the wet...and thats with no LSD
Ah sorry, this is for the Skyline.
Yeah, tell me about the Supra's boost creep problems
Luckily mine is behaving itself as I'm running the stock midpipe which acts as a natural restriction so it's fine. Some guys replace this pipe only to have to put a restrictor back in... why do it? So my pipe sizes from the engine are 3.0" downpipe, 2.5" (?) midpipe, 3.0" (?) from cat to first muffler, 3.75" to rear muffler (Apexi GT-Spec catback) I suspect because your Soarer is heavier and with softer suspension, rear end grip would be much better than in the Skyline. I've never driven one but I've read that the TT models are actually less responsive than the later single turbo models? If this is the case, then I suspect an auto GTS-T with an EBC would be much more touchy. Are you running an EBC in the Soarer?
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Have you checked every join in the cooler piping? even a tiny airleak plays havoc with the RB ECU and gets worse under load
At Idle you should see anywhere between 1.0 and 1.7V depending on the car
You will see a tiny amount of voltage even with the AFM disconnected.
Have you tried a different ecu? the short that was blowing fuses may have friend something on the board
Taking the car to the autoelectrician's tomorrow so if he doesn't come up with anything, I'll have to go through the piping with a fine tooth comb. The reason why I'm putting this off is because these problems happened straight after I had changed the plugs and coolant. I was a bit rough with the main intake pipe that runs over the top of the engine, and a few of the things around it, which is why I suspect it's something I've done. I've obviously checked the main join/clamps and they're fine. Obviously it's not the main intake pipe itself as it's metal, and I have checked many times all the air pipes and electrical conn's that I have moved. I suspect that I may have yanked a bit too hard on an electrical wire!
How come there's still a voltage even with the AFM d/c'd? What sort of voltage are we talking here? And should it fluctuate? Mine was all over the place, seemed a bit too much for my liking.
And yes, I'm on my 2nd ECU
My old one was partially fried (well before these problems) and it was a REAL pain to find another one (S2, auto), so REALLY hope it's not that!!Hokayy,
Are you running a pump that requires 12V instead of 6V? Or maybe it was the other way round? I can remember reading something on here about a bloke that had same issue as you and it was because wires to his fuel pump needed to be bridged to give him the correct voltage to the fuel pump? You'll have to check that shit. I'd pull your fuel line off and let it prime and see if you have pressure if you haven't already. If its a continuous stream of fuel then you'll know the problem is closer to the engine.
Theres no reason why a 1.5 yr old pump can't die. Just like theres no reason that your pump wont suck some serious shit from your tank and spooge it into your filter blocking it.
Check voltage output from the O2 sensor. Also check voltage to the sensor.
Swap in another AFM and check that?
Check your BOV piping too.
Swap in a different battery (clean up your terminals as well
)And then finally check every motherf**king hose and pipe connection you have.
If nothing changes after all of this. Swap in another ecu like zebra says
Better not be the damn pump
Will definitely look into this if it comes back broken from the autoelectrician's. I have no idea whether it's a 6V or 12V pump - all I know is that it should be as close as possible to the stock pump.I'll have to ask around for a spare AFM if it comes to that as I don't have a spare lying around
BOV itself and piping has already been checked!
Battery isn't the best, but I can see the voltage readout as I'm driving and it's nothing bad. Starts at around 14.2 - 14.3V and after driving for 15 mins it drops to about 13.7 - 13.8V and doesn't go any lower. With the car off it's a bit under 12V which leads me to believe one of the cells is stuffed, so a new battery is coming soon!
As mentioned above, I'm really hoping it's not the ECU (and doubt it just by how this all happened) as they really aren't easy (or cheap) to find. If it was a manual, no probs, but being an S2 auto, they're like $300+ on ebay and they aren't around all the time!
Thanks for the help guys. Some very useful stuff to check out there. My gut feeling is that it's electrical. After that, I'd say AFM itself, then maybe air leak. Wish me luck!
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Or you could just get an Apexi SAFC for $100 and a cheap manual bleed valve - won't make much difference if the boost creeps up a pound or two on a cold day. If the loom extender doesn't come with the Haltech that's another $300. As well as a laptop you'll need a dyno - wideband meter etc. You don't need to change the boost curve for the rain - just adjust foot pressure on the accelerator pedal.
Yeah, I already know about those options, and I'm sure the SAFC is fine, but I already have a manual bleed valve and I don't like it. Boost fluctuates at least 3-4 psi between say 10C and 40C which is too much, especially on a stock turbo. Not having an SAFC means my power totally dies as soon as I hit > 8 psi on a cold night.
Even if I just went with the SAFC and MBC, I risk blowing the turbo as they don't fare well with > 10 psi. Yeah, it's an excuse to get a new turbo but I don't think the car is worth spending that sort of money on (it's my daily). Getting rid of it soon anyway (so obviously I'm not going with the Haltech
)...I can't remember if the guy said the Haltech comes with the loom extender but I don't think it matters anyway, I recall him showing me a wiring diagram and it doesn't take too long to hook up manually anyway.
You'd need a dyno + wideband meter to tune the SAFC anyway. At least that's what I'd be doing - not worth doing unless it's done properly.
LOL it's not quite that simple with the foot pressure/boost theory. When I had the Jaycar EBC hooked up it made the turbo *very* responsive, even a little too much, which made it dangerous in the rain, especially since it's an auto. With a manual it may be OK. Obviously with a turbo it's not a linear curve between foot pressure and torque, which makes it a lot harder to control with your foot. Having a 2nd boost preset curve for the rain would make it a lot safer to drive, plus I could set it up to run 10 psi boost from say 5k onwards anyway which would make the car feel quick as it would feel like a big single (kind of)
... obviously if you're in the rain you won't be reaching 5k in an auto without asking for it
If it does turn out to just be that I will be furious!! I'll double-check the cable just to be sure I do have the correct one.
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How To Clean Sard Sports Ex / Power Intake Pod Filter?
in General Maintenance
Posted
Hi guys,
Does anyone know anything about how to clean the SARD Sports Ex (not the "+" model) pod filter? I've also seen it referred to as the Power Intake - although I thought Apexi also used that name...
Here is a link to the official site's product page, although this is the Sports Ex + model (I think the only difference being that you can remove the top).
Here is a link to the Sports Ex + at RHD Japan, has a good closeup of the material.
It looks like it's just paper and the official site says it's a dry filter. I blasted it last night with the manual petrol station tyre pump but it didn't seem to take out that much dirt.
I also found a post on OzFoz.com (had to sign up specially just to see it!) and someone said they used the "solvent from the K&N kit" and it came up fine. What is this solvent they speak of and can it possibly harm some of the resins or anything that may be used?
Any help would be much appreciated - I cannot believe how hard it is to find info on this filter!!