DR3AMN
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Posts posted by DR3AMN
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What if you pull out the gearbox and the clutch is fine?
S**t happens i guess. The throwout bearing is making a noise anyway. If its all good il keep using it and put the new clutch on my 25/30 instead.
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When i bought an aftermarket BOV that vented to atmosphere i got told to keep the standard one that vents back because if it doesnt then it will stall after getting off the throttle. So change the BOV to a recirculating one and see how you go.
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Why on earth would you want to run lower boost down low? That's heaps pointless.
hahaha sorry when i posted i was thinking if i did this mod then the solenoid would run 7psi down low instead of 5 but then the boost controller would run 12psi up high. I worded it all wrong. Im new to forced induction.
Make the auto transmission last longer is my guess.
Answer above
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Keen to see some pics.
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Yes was hard to put in first when it was just sitting still on idle. Im doing the clutch now so il be dumping oil and doing all that extra now anyway.
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I love karting.. Wish i had my licence back already i would come with.
Will deffinatly attend other events when i get it back though in just over 2weeks. -
Dump the oil.
Ok i think il just do the clutch anyway now.. Thanks
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Load that sucker up and force some air down it's throatle.
That'll tell you how good it is.
Cant do that for another 3weeks when i get my licence back
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Well the 1.1mm gap works fine. Revs sooo much smoother now. Coils must be good
Old plugs had a little miss before it revved. Doesnt miss at all during idle or rev. Have no driven it yet to test them under load but all seems fine. Thanks everyone for your help -
Hey guys..
I have a S2 R33 GTST manual. Now i have searched and could not come up with a real answer. The other day i let my brother drive my skyline to get fuel for it because it just sits in my driveway getting started every second day (waiting to get licence back before i can drive it)
Anyway we went for a little drive about 30mins or so and when we got home i noticed it was hard to put the car in first gear. It kind of cluncked but didnt grind.. Straight away i thought it was clutch/throwout bearing BUT when i started the car today it was fine to go into gear? So its like hard to get into gear when oil is hot but easy when its cold?? Clutch or oil?? throwout bearing is making a noise at the moment.
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Nope.
I just read the last 40 odd pages lol What a journey!
Might go out for another spin later
Im still going at halfway. page 43. haha awesome so far.
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Alright sweet I will give them a try tomorrow and see how I go. Thanks heaps guys
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That's what I thought.. I will try the 1.1mm gap an see how I go. It only has 140k on the engine so coils might be fine.
Is 1.1mm and 0.8mm the only 2 gaps I can run or should I try lower the gap in 0.1mm increments like as in if 1.1mm doesn't work maybe try 1mm then 0.9 then 0.8 or is that pointless? I'm new to the whole boost scene so excuse my lack of knowledge haha appreciate everyone's help
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Oh and Ben yeah I knew it was a different heat rating but when I was doing some searching there was a thread that people were telling a guy to buy the 7s then I came in this thread and its all different plugs so that's why I got a little confused on what to use
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Ben I have NGK BCPR6ES-11 plugs so its the 1.1mm gap as you know
I will re gap them to .80mm.Nizmo so are you saying that I should leave the 1.1mm gap if I'm running factory coils?
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Dig dig dig..
Sorry guys thought id dig instead of starting whole new thread.
I am now confused on what plug to use on my stock R33 RB25DET. It has a aftermarket exhaust (3inch i think) Pod, getting a BOV installed and thats it. Boost controller and a FMIC intercooler will be installed and running on 11 or 12psi with standard turbo.
Which one would be best for daily driving if i gap them to .08
BCPR6ES
BCPR7ES
bkr6eya-11
Or if anyone can recommend a good plug thats not $20 a plug that will be great. Cheers
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some tips
rb30 block out of skyline r31
cp-spool package or nitto one or manley wit cp - don't waste time on stock rods time u prep them your buying new set
use rb30 twincam pistons - 25/26 pistons in rb30 isn't good idea decking block to much
0 deck
good oil pump - nitto or tomie
line bore hone, - ect
keep compression under 8.6:1
arp head/mians
ask for bottom end to be balanced wit flywheel and balancer
cheers
Thank you all that will be done besides the compression. Il be putting more compression into it that 8:6:1 though
I disagree with compression ratio mentioned dont go under 9.0:1 if you want good torque off boost. 25's are tougher than you think I pumped 25psi into my car with no dramas on E85 and another guy Matt on here is putting 28psi into a stock motor also.
Yeah i want something over 9:0:1 at least for the off boost driving. This will be my daily car and wont be flogged day in and day out so the extra torque would be good. I would keep the 25 but i want to put a fresh bottom end in it anyway so might as well do the 30 since it will be cheaper.
I will be running pump 98 in it for the ease of fueling up also. -
I love it when you post pics. That motor is incredibly sexy and does that turbo suck in small children as you drive by??
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you also need to remember the oil side of things, a good oil pump is a huge key to you engine life and the extended oil pump drive is also a good thing, if your going to be building a motor, what is going to be your power output goal? if its around the 500hp mark it would probably be safer to get a set of rods for the extra money then spending all this money on the motor with 20 year old rods.
Yes oil will most defiantly be thought about with the higher output motor but for now this one is just a basic build for daily driven car while i build the second engine. My next motor will be hoping for about 500/600hp and all those supporting mods will be done without hesitation.
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I know of a few people having issues with haltech computers I could also show you a video which may change your mind about them lol. Mate id suggest spending your money on ya bolt on bits 1st cos if its 100% stock you will be VERY surprised how quickly it livens up when you get it breathing.
If this is your 1st turbo car take my advice and do your bolt on power mods and see if you still think you need more torque Yeah i think i am going to go with a power fc instead of haltech now.. I thought about just doing the 25 but thought well i want to put a fresh bottom end in anyway so i might as well do the 30 instead of another 25 and i can build the 30 while im driving it with the 25 in it.
this, breath in breath out Daniel son, 30 pistons maybe a resurface skim, 25 pistons .5mm 20thou, 26 pistons 2mm 80thou, the skirts are the same it's just the top height that comes down which is where the weight is saved
just remember what we're doing is arming you with info and suggestions cause at the end of the day you have to make the choice of what you want to do, it's your car
Awesome thanks. Yeah im taking all the suggestions in. Appreciate it you guys giving me info.
So far my idea is get a 30 motor and put ACL bearings in it, Standard crank, Shot peen the rods, Forged pistons (not sure which ones yet) and cheap second hand 25 head (if possible) and put new valve springs in it if not to expensive and get it resurfaced,cleaned etc the usuals. Then when built i can just do the swap over in a day or so and sell the RB25 as a whole motor and make some money back. Please feel free to correct me if im heading in the wrong path
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Yeah 2mm 80thou, there is 3 comp height for RBs, you've got the 26 height then the 25 ones are 1.5mm 60thou higher and the 30 one are 2mm 80thou higher then the 26 ones, I've got the 25 ones and shaved .5mm 20 thou off the block to get zero deck height
This is just what I would do if I did it again, what you do is your choice, the reason I would do it way is clearance above motor on mine is that tight I had to put washers under the strut brace to clear the twin turbo pipe, plus the liter piston, from memory it's 60grams less then the 25 ones I've got now, would make a difference at 8000rpm
Ok so what if i use 30 or 25 pistons? Would i need to get the block shaved by 2mm or just 1.5mm for the 25 pistons? Or just a resurface like the head?
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R33 turbo has 5psi waste gate spring. The solenoid bleeds it to 7 or whatever the max pressure is set from factory. Boost controller will essentially bypass/replace the solenoid.
Awesome thanks for the easy answer.
I realised boost controller would replace it after i went out and looked at the solenoid today. My mistake -
Quick question
Is this mod pointless if i am going to be putting a boost controller in my R33 or should i do it so it sits at 7psi down low then the admired 11-12psi in the top end from the boost controller? I want to run 7psi down low and 11 or 12 top end.
Cheers
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hi Jason,
Check out spool imports they do a rebuild kit to suit rb2530 engines, I'm currently building a motor using one of these kits for my own car, as for a computer I'd recommend something like a Apexi Power FC, they are a good computer and I haven't heard anyway really have any problems with them.
XKLABA 2mm sounds like a lot to take off the block :\ are you sure it wasn't 2thou? 2mm is 80thou, I had my block decked 2 thou to simply clean the deck up and achieve a CR of 9:1 using the JE pistons and spool rods package with a 1.3mm cometic head gasket.
Thanks i had a look and i might actually grab one of them kits. Id have to work out cost etc because its just a budget build while i build another fully forged 30 bottom end hence why i just wanted to re ring and new bearings to start with. Might still do it depending on CR i would get from the standard pistons from a N/A RB30 and a turbo 25 head.
Damn
Rb30Det Build
in RB30 conversions
Posted
Yes yes yes.. Pics are important to any build thread haha.. Lots n Lots.
Good stuff looks to be comming along nicely