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DR3AMN

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Everything posted by DR3AMN

  1. Yes yes yes.. Pics are important to any build thread haha.. Lots n Lots. Good stuff looks to be comming along nicely
  2. S**t happens i guess. The throwout bearing is making a noise anyway. If its all good il keep using it and put the new clutch on my 25/30 instead.
  3. When i bought an aftermarket BOV that vented to atmosphere i got told to keep the standard one that vents back because if it doesnt then it will stall after getting off the throttle. So change the BOV to a recirculating one and see how you go.
  4. hahaha sorry when i posted i was thinking if i did this mod then the solenoid would run 7psi down low instead of 5 but then the boost controller would run 12psi up high. I worded it all wrong. Im new to forced induction. Answer above
  5. Yes was hard to put in first when it was just sitting still on idle. Im doing the clutch now so il be dumping oil and doing all that extra now anyway.
  6. I love karting.. Wish i had my licence back already i would come with. Will deffinatly attend other events when i get it back though in just over 2weeks.
  7. Ok i think il just do the clutch anyway now.. Thanks
  8. Cant do that for another 3weeks when i get my licence back Damn
  9. Well the 1.1mm gap works fine. Revs sooo much smoother now. Coils must be good Old plugs had a little miss before it revved. Doesnt miss at all during idle or rev. Have no driven it yet to test them under load but all seems fine. Thanks everyone for your help
  10. Hey guys.. I have a S2 R33 GTST manual. Now i have searched and could not come up with a real answer. The other day i let my brother drive my skyline to get fuel for it because it just sits in my driveway getting started every second day (waiting to get licence back before i can drive it) Anyway we went for a little drive about 30mins or so and when we got home i noticed it was hard to put the car in first gear. It kind of cluncked but didnt grind.. Straight away i thought it was clutch/throwout bearing BUT when i started the car today it was fine to go into gear? So its like hard to get into gear when oil is hot but easy when its cold?? Clutch or oil?? throwout bearing is making a noise at the moment. Thanks
  11. Im still going at halfway. page 43. haha awesome so far.
  12. Alright sweet I will give them a try tomorrow and see how I go. Thanks heaps guys
  13. That's what I thought.. I will try the 1.1mm gap an see how I go. It only has 140k on the engine so coils might be fine. Is 1.1mm and 0.8mm the only 2 gaps I can run or should I try lower the gap in 0.1mm increments like as in if 1.1mm doesn't work maybe try 1mm then 0.9 then 0.8 or is that pointless? I'm new to the whole boost scene so excuse my lack of knowledge haha appreciate everyone's help
  14. Oh and Ben yeah I knew it was a different heat rating but when I was doing some searching there was a thread that people were telling a guy to buy the 7s then I came in this thread and its all different plugs so that's why I got a little confused on what to use
  15. Ben I have NGK BCPR6ES-11 plugs so its the 1.1mm gap as you know I will re gap them to .80mm. Nizmo so are you saying that I should leave the 1.1mm gap if I'm running factory coils?
  16. Dig dig dig.. Sorry guys thought id dig instead of starting whole new thread. I am now confused on what plug to use on my stock R33 RB25DET. It has a aftermarket exhaust (3inch i think) Pod, getting a BOV installed and thats it. Boost controller and a FMIC intercooler will be installed and running on 11 or 12psi with standard turbo. Which one would be best for daily driving if i gap them to .08 BCPR6ES BCPR7ES bkr6eya-11 Or if anyone can recommend a good plug thats not $20 a plug that will be great. Cheers
  17. Thank you all that will be done besides the compression. Il be putting more compression into it that 8:6:1 though Yeah i want something over 9:0:1 at least for the off boost driving. This will be my daily car and wont be flogged day in and day out so the extra torque would be good. I would keep the 25 but i want to put a fresh bottom end in it anyway so might as well do the 30 since it will be cheaper. I will be running pump 98 in it for the ease of fueling up also.
  18. I love it when you post pics. That motor is incredibly sexy and does that turbo suck in small children as you drive by??
  19. Yes oil will most defiantly be thought about with the higher output motor but for now this one is just a basic build for daily driven car while i build the second engine. My next motor will be hoping for about 500/600hp and all those supporting mods will be done without hesitation.
  20. Yeah i think i am going to go with a power fc instead of haltech now.. I thought about just doing the 25 but thought well i want to put a fresh bottom end in anyway so i might as well do the 30 instead of another 25 and i can build the 30 while im driving it with the 25 in it. Awesome thanks. Yeah im taking all the suggestions in. Appreciate it you guys giving me info. So far my idea is get a 30 motor and put ACL bearings in it, Standard crank, Shot peen the rods, Forged pistons (not sure which ones yet) and cheap second hand 25 head (if possible) and put new valve springs in it if not to expensive and get it resurfaced,cleaned etc the usuals. Then when built i can just do the swap over in a day or so and sell the RB25 as a whole motor and make some money back. Please feel free to correct me if im heading in the wrong path
  21. Ok so what if i use 30 or 25 pistons? Would i need to get the block shaved by 2mm or just 1.5mm for the 25 pistons? Or just a resurface like the head?
  22. Awesome thanks for the easy answer. I realised boost controller would replace it after i went out and looked at the solenoid today. My mistake
  23. Quick question Is this mod pointless if i am going to be putting a boost controller in my R33 or should i do it so it sits at 7psi down low then the admired 11-12psi in the top end from the boost controller? I want to run 7psi down low and 11 or 12 top end. Cheers
  24. Thanks i had a look and i might actually grab one of them kits. Id have to work out cost etc because its just a budget build while i build another fully forged 30 bottom end hence why i just wanted to re ring and new bearings to start with. Might still do it depending on CR i would get from the standard pistons from a N/A RB30 and a turbo 25 head.
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