owen1r
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Posts posted by owen1r
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I had shockworks in my R34 GT-T, definitely not bad at all comfort wise with their standard rates. I wouldn't call it comfortable however.
Have had a set of BC V1s in my previous car and ridden in countless cars with BC BRs, only purchase these if you have $1300 to spend. If you're spending $1300 on coilovers for a R34 GTR I think you need to reassess your priorities. I see countless 50k+ builds running BCs and cry a little.
I've driven a MX5 with X-R coilovers with their 'Tarmac' spring rates and was pleasantly surprised with comfort and performance. Going off this I can only guess that X-C would be significantly better.
TLDR
- Buy BC BR if budgeting ~1300, don't cry when they ride shit.
- Buy MCA X-C with suitable spring rates if you want decent comfort (or fork out for reds), just talk to MCA.
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RB25 Neo Coilpacks
Set of 6 coilpacks for sale from a RB25 Neo.
Replaced with splitfires as I was chasing a missfire issue, turned out to be the crank angle sensor instead.
Working condition, had no issues running 12psi with 1.1mm gapped plugs.
Willing to post at cost of buyer
$100
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I feel like GTRs are past the point of where they are good value for money, much better options available. If this was 2-3 years ago, I'd say pick up a clean Series 3 R33.
I'd go an Evo or an RX7 over a R32/R33 GTR, and having driven a R33 GTR I think you'd be underwhelmed with the result.
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I would of also thought that you'd struggle to get a good seal between the divider and the wastegate piston with varying brands of wastegates etc. I'd expect there to be a gap of a mm or two.
I'm hoping someone like fullrace will chime in with some data, as I believe they've done plenty of simulations.
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I wonder how much of a difference it makes having the pressure communication inside the wastegate, someone go make a simulation pls.
Because I'm wanting to go a similar style manifold, saves a massive headache with piping.
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4 hours ago, sneakey pete said:
I'm hoping to do close to 500 with a plaz 76 but i'm realistic that it might run into issues. at that point not sure what i'll do though. Maybe cooler spray.
I just find it strange how they can rate their 100mm at 1500hp+ when an equivalent jap cooler is ~800hp. Must be more that goes into the design than I thought.
Did you get the standard cooler or the pro series?
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2 hours ago, Sub Boy32 said:
I've just taken a 600x300x100 Trust/Greedy tube and fin intercooler out of the car as it is just not doing a good enough job at 500kw at the wheels.....it was just making too high temps on the intake.
That's surprising, I've seen people make 400kw quite easily with a 63mm version, you'd think that 100mm would be much more capable.
I've got a HKS Type R 100mm core myself and will be approaching 500kw eventually and would have thought it would hold up fine.
Interested to see how people have found Plazmaman/PWR etc compared to these japanese coolers.
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2 hours ago, Hadouken said:
Lol. Buy a supra.
Same gearbox.
Would rather buy a GTT
Buying a modified one would be cheaper than doing all the work from scratch.
I've owned a GT-T, and now a Supra. Goes without saying which one I think is better.
Or buy an evo IX if you don't smile often.
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Buying a built/better condition car is much more sensible if you plan on modifying down the track, however you might have to wait awhile. I looked at R32 GTRs/Evos etc for nearly 2 years and didn't find one suitable but you might be less fussy than I am.
My advice would be to wait, you'll end up spending much less in the long run if you modify. I'd also recommend to anyone who is looking at a R32 GTR to consider a Supra, better driveline than a R34 GTR with lower prices than a R32 (slightly).
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54 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.
Got those oil analysis results by any chance? Wouldn't mind a look.
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Maybe you can use all the money you saved not buying Motul oils on a baffled sump!
I'm still undecided on running something as thick as 10w-60 is necessary.
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There's plenty of information in the current oils thread if you haven't already had a read.
My thoughts are that you can use any group IV oil and buy whichever is on special as some can be nearly double the cost (Motul vs Castrol etc)... I'm skeptical that you would find a major difference between any of the big brands in terms of wear/performance. Fuel economy is going to be similar with most oils, it's not a factor even worth considering as the improvement will be 2-3% at best.
In saying that, I wouldn't mind seeing the tests. But what would you use as an indicator for the 'best' oil?
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R34 was replaced with a supra.
No more skyline cruises for me.
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1 hour ago, GH05T said:
do people generally go MCA Blues or is the price for the X series worth the $500
I think people should be tossing up between X series and Reds!
X Series are the ones to go.
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Single pls, in saying that I have silly 272s in my car and off boost is still awesome and you get to sound tough at the lights.
I'm really not sure how VIC compares to WA, but surely engineering/mod plated wouldn't be too much trouble.
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6 minutes ago, ActionDan said:
I've got a -9 setup car on e85 with all the usual stuff, including cam gears, dyno below,
I'm mostly interested in response and low to mid range torque.There's your issue.
But on srs note, I think SimonR32 ran those cams and many others. Shoot him a PM.
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Might just have to pay for the haltech and see if they can throw in a 4.9 sensor instead.
But yes, exactly the same sensor as NZ EFI sells but from a electronics wholesaler for significantly less.
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High Accuracy Alternatives to Haltech Sensors
Hi guys,
Currently researching to get some sensors to hook up to my PS2000 (aka Box Simulator 2016).
I'm wanting to get both oil/fuel pressure sensors for logging and engine protection hence the need to be reliable. I've managed to track down these Honeywell sensors and I think they will be suitable/accurate and have the calibration curves readily available. Can anyone think of a better alternative? Don't mind spending extra for better quality sensor.
Part No - MLH100PGB06A
I'd also like a wideband and I've been told that the Haltech Wideband using CAN is more reliable/helpful than your typical 0-5v output. But I'm confused as to why Haltech insist on including the Bosch 4.2 sensor when it's obsolete due to a major design flaw.
Does anyone know any alternative CAN widebands? I'm not too familiar with the operating principles of CAN and would love some suggestions.
Hope this helps other people save some money on sensors.
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Pretty similar to be honest, supra feels a like it's more of a GT car than a R34 is. Seating position is really low and perhaps not as comfortable as the R34, probably because I'm tall. Need to get some decent coilovers first as my R34 had all the nice handling mods/aggressive alignment, then I'll make the decision on which one I think handles better
It's insane going from a 170kw to a 400kw car, still can't get my head around how quick it is and yet I see blokes who get sick of that power quickly and move onto 800 hp +, crazy. I'm sure in a year I'll want to do the same thing. Off boost drive-ability is still fantastic, but doesn't hit full boost until 4.5k-5k rpm and then it's all in at once. Definitely needs the boost curve flattened out a bit for traction. However in saying that, the 285 MT ET Streets hook up in second gear which I found very surprising.
Keen to get out on the track asap to find out how it behaves when pushed and so I can finally go through a few gears at full throttle without getting to license loss speeds.
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Currently makes 526hp at 22psi on 98, more than double what my R34 would of been putting out lol
Major Mods:
HKS T04z
6boost
Tial 44mm wastegate
HKS 272 Cams
HKS Cam gears
ID2000 injectors
Titan Motorsports fuel rail
Fuel Lab Pressure Reg
HKS Type-R Intercooler
Haltech PS2000
3.5 inch dump with screamer, including interchangeable plumb back pipeScreamer, manifold, all ceramic coated
Blitz NUR Exhaust
K&N Pod
Exedy Hyper Carbon Twin Plate
B03B Diff
MintSpeed Titanium Strut Brace
Marks Engineering Poly Subframe and Diff mounts
Genuine Recaro Seat. Driver and passenger
Momo Steering wheel
TRD 320kph Speedo
Defi boost gauge with controller
Alpine Stereo/GPS with Rockford Fosgate speakers.
SSR GTV 02 Wheels 18x9+45 front 18x9.5+35 rear, MT ET Streets on rear
STOPTECH BIG Brake Kit, 355mm Front and Rear, 6 piston front 4 piston rear, all braided lines
Powerhouse Industries Twin-in-tank fuel system
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Well... After a year of searching and inspecting around 15 cars, I've finally found a replacement.
I have to learn how to drive the damn thing, having driven an auto commodore for the best part of a year. Genuinley scares the shit out of me.
Thought I'd update this thread as supra forums are shite at best, and to provide a comparison to the R34 if anyone is looking to switch
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Stick in a stock RB25 neo, there's no need to waste 10k on a forged motor. I've lost count of how many 400kw+ builds on stock RB25 neos that have been reliable, there's even a few 800hp ones floating around.
Twin gates as it allows the twin 'scrolls' to be better separated, I believe.
Stick with those cams, matching valve springs, ARP Head Studs and happily pump 30 psi into it. Use the money you would have on the forged motor for a Plazmaman/PWR intercooler and a custom 3.5 inch exhaust.
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The stage before stage 2.
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Sold the car a few months ago, now driving around in a Toyota Starlet.
I've looked at a heap of R32 GTR's, none have been up to scratch and most had rust/paint issues or required buckets of money poured into them. I've kind of given up in finding a decent R32 GTR and have since been looking at Evo IX's.
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Different Springs or NEw MCA/Shockworks setup?
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well those spring rates will ride.
Remember to update us when they finally go in so I can continue my BC hate brigade.