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Stooge007

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Posts posted by Stooge007

  1. i think it is a self fulfilling prophecy almost though

    with the plethora of information freely available on the net, more and more people are doing basic maintenance on their cars themselves. this used to be the bread and butter of your local mechanic

    as such, local mechanic has fewer customers, and therefore needs to sting people every now and again to make any money

    personally, i'm just starting to learn to do things myself and find it quite handy/enjoyable

    others don't have the time/inclincation/tools to do so, and therefore have to pay (sometimes through the nose) for the privilage

  2. in theory, you should wire each subs coils in series, then parallel the subs together

    It is far less desirable to make subwoofer to subwoofer connections in series. Because of slight and unavoidable differences between speakers and because of the high likelihood of uneven loading between different speakers in a car, there will be slight differences in the mechanical behavior of the two speakers in series. These differences in movement result in induced voltage (called back EMF) being created by the speakers across the series connection. This effect causes a problem when two speakers which behave differently are connected in series because the speakers can modulate each other (cause each other to move), resulting in distortion. The problem becomes more serious as more speakers are connected in series.

    A good experiment to show the effect of back EMF is the following: connect four speakers in series and short the positive and negative input leads of the series circuit. Push down on one cone with your hand; you will notice that the three other speakers will move in the opposite direction of the one you are pushing. Now, reconnect the speakers in parallel, short the inputs and push down on one cone. The speakers will not modulate each other because each one is shorted directly.

    Back EMF modulation is not a concern when the voice coils of a dual voice coil speaker are wired in series to each other because the coils are physically coupled on one moving mass. Therefore, they cannot possibly modulate each other because they cannot move independently.

    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=163

  3. Yeah you need both and you need the half moons that go with them......

    as for the cv boot get another quote i wouldnt pay more than 150odd

    these things?

    http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18579&cat=&page=1

    how hard are the gaskets to change?

    this link looks good?

    http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1509814

    looks like i need some gasket silicone too?

    would Nissan sell the gaskets cheaper?

  4. hi all

    learning a lot about my car over the past few weeks :)

    anyway, how hard is it to change the rocker cover gasket on an RB25DET Neo engine?

    do i need one each of:

    http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18578&cat=318&page=1

    http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18577&cat=318&page=1

    do i need any grease/gasket goo as well?

    easy enough to do while i'm changing spark plugs?

    also, CV boot replacement quote of $200 (front driver side only). is that reasonable? or should i get a quote from a specialist CV place?

    many thanks all :)

  5. UPDATE

    got another quote (from a pretty reputable place):

    - coolant flush

    - change gearbox oil

    - change transfer case oil

    - change front and rear diff oil

    - brake and clutch fluid flush

    - check CV boots

    - check rear main oil seal for leaks

    - check rocker cover gasket

    - check water pump

    - check clutch

    - check turbo

    all of the above for $495 (including oils/coolant/fluids)

    i will do the rest of the stuff myself:

    - spark plugs

    - fuel filter

    - air filter

    - wiper blades

    so looks like it will cost me far less than the original quote :)

  6. i don't drive my Stagea (S2 C34 RS Four S) all that much, as it's the wife's daily

    however, drove it a while today and it's not making any boost. like zero, none

    feels sooooo slugish

    recently serviced by a reputable workshop (3 weeks ago)

    battery went flat the other day, but i wouldn't imagine that would cause a problem?

    any ideas on what i can check/do?

  7. Firstly can I have some history on the car to determine why he recomends to change what.... How many K's are on it? Odo says ~ 70,xxx, but that's BS. I am the first Australian owner and it had 52,xxx on it

    water pump <----- These things can last for well over 100,00k's unsure if it's ever been changed

    water pump gasket <------ Its more over a gasket goo than anything if changing pump, assume change gasket/goo at same time

    coolant flush <------ How long ago was it done? Whats its colour and is it running hot? has not been changed in last 2 years, not running hot at all

    gearbox oil <------ Once again colour and levels? where do i check this?

    transfer case oil <------ Check colour and level then decided where do i check this?

    rear diff oil <---- Recommending changing the rear diff oil but not the front, sounds like he really does know what hes on about :/ where do i check this?

    front outer CV boot <---- If its torn got onto that apparently torn and spitting oil

    rear main oil seal <------- May I ask why? is it leaking really bad or is he just jumping to conclusions that its leaking as where oil collects when these leak (at the bottom of the bellhousing) is the lowest point and many leaks will collect here making it look like a rear main seal issue... apparently leaking, not sure how bad

    brake and clutch fluid flush <------ Again check the colours and levels haven't checked colour and levels

    rocker cover gasket <----- Try nipping up the screws on the outside and in the valley first? will do this if i change spark plugs

    spark plugs <------- For only $30 Why not? NGK BCPR7ES is your friend! will be doing these myself

    fuel filter <------ When was it last done unsure of when last changed, but will change this myself

    air filter <----- Hows it current condition? unsure of when last changed, condition fine from what i can see, but will change this myself

    wiper blades <----- Where are you located? Im in adelaide and just coming into summer I wouldnt bother till the start of next season as its not how often you use these that wears them out but the chemicals ect from cleaning your car that makes them go all brittle ect.. might wait till after summer then, cheers

    While your at it you might as well do power steering fluid, attessa reservior, O2 sensor maybe?

    responses above

    i'm not too mechanically minded when it comes to car engines (as you might tell)

    car audio/electronics i'm fine with, but that doesn't help

    anyone in Sydney with the knowledge on how to do this stuff want to help me out and earn some $'s???

  8. hi all

    took my Stag (RS Four S) in to get rego/pink slip done, but this time took it to someone who knows what they're doing

    they are recommending changing/replacing the following:

    water pump

    water pump gasket

    coolant flush

    gearbox oil

    transfer case oil

    rear diff oil

    front outer CV boot

    rear main oil seal

    brake and clutch fluid flush

    rocker cover gasket

    spark plugs

    fuel filter

    air filter

    wiper blades

    what would you expect to pay for that?

    is this a pretty accurate guide for changing plugs? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/192015-diy-changing-coilpacks-on-r34-gtt/page__hl__coil

    how hard is it to access/change the fuel filter? EDIT found this? http://www.anthonymcgrath.co.uk/gtroc/fuelfilter.htm

    air filter and wiper blades are obviously easy

    any/all help appreciated

    thanks :)

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