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B0oStEr

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Posts posted by B0oStEr

  1. R32 Auto & Manual GB Brackets are the same apart that one says A and one says C with an arrow pointing towards clutch

    Mmm not much help to the op as this thread is over 2 years old but for the record.

    R32 manual and auto and r33 manual and presumably also r33 auto cross members are basically the same.

    The A, B, C stamps on them designate the different setback of the chassis bolt holes relatively to the centre mount holes in 5mm steps.

    I'm not sure if the particular letter designates manual or auto or whether they are graded to account for manufacturing discrepancies.

    I know it's been said before but a lot of people still seem confused, the difference between the r32 manual and auto cross member bolt up is that the holes in the auto floorpan are 50mm further back than they are in the manual floorpan.

    The r33 gtst manual box is a straight boltup into the r32 auto.

  2. is it possible to put an rb20 head on a L20 bottom end if so how hard

    I thought about doing this to a L28 with an rb25 head for about 5 minutes.

    Anything can be done but not worth the effort in this case.

    I think the best option for an rb engine in the r30 is to use an r31 engine crossmember and also adapting the rack and pinion steering.

  3. best thing you can bolt to an L series is an OS Giken twincam head.... good luck finding one though haha.

    Years ago I borrowed a book on the 'L' series and it mentioned the OS Giken twincam head.

    Apparently it cost US$20,000 and was ultra rare more than 25 years ago.

  4. Available from Racebrakes.

    Apparently Elig have been around for years as an OEM manufacturer of brake pad backing plates but have only recently bought out their own pads.

    They've only released pads for a few cars but include Skylines.

    They are available in two compounds 2021 (fast street) and RS600 (street /trackday)

    I searched for Elig on SAU and found nothing but I googled them and found some WRX workshops offering them as part of an upgrade brake package.

    I found almost no feedback as to how they perform.

    Has anyone here tried them or am I going to be the guinea-pig?

  5. if it seized up shortly after it was installed, sounds like there was still moisture in the system or it overheated, maybe dont go to that place that installed it. it shouldnt seize that easily, its possible they didnt vac out the moisture, which can lead to compressor failure

    They did a thorough flush and ran nitrogen in the system prior to oiling and gassing it.

    It was cold as but had a bit of a rattle from the start that slowly deteriorated over several weeks until it became a loud knock and seized.

    It's likely it was on the way out when the car it came from was wrecked or it wasn't sealed up for several months that it sat in the halfcut.

    I was told reco kits aren't available.

    Has anyone had one of the locally available new ones fitted?

    If so what needs to be changed for it to fit?

  6. did u purchase the ac compressor from the wreckers? if u did there should be like 1 months

    warranty on it? there pretty expensive i would reckon to buy it brand new.

    think u be better of getting another used one from the wreckers that have warranty on it.

    i brought one of the forum for $100 buxs my mechanic installed and regassed it for me and found out there was a crack/leak in the compressor wasted to $200 buxs fitting and gassing it as well..

    Mine came off a halfcut($50) and worked ok for a few weeks before it progressively developed a rattle and then a knock and finally seized.

    It cost $400 to fit.They used a new dryer and flushed the system and tested it for leaks with nitrogen, found a leak and fitted a new hose and put new oil in the system before they gassed it.

    Even if they would give me another second hand pump you can never get warranty on fitting of used parts by a third party so all that money apart from the hose was wasted.

    I talked to the guy who fitted it after it failed and he said to only consider another second handy if I could find one that was still in a car working before a degas and seal it up immediately so I'm hoping to find someone stripping a wreck or racecar otherwise I'll have to find a newy.

  7. Of course ride height will be determined by spring choice.

    I fitted kings lows and had to have new grooves machined in my konis for a higher ride height just to keep guard to wheel-centre measurement at 340mm.

    Top Performance quoted me $250 to $300 a pair to revalve my konis.

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