Skyride

Update: This story has a happy ending! The bitch started today. But not before we ripped all the grounds and bypassed chassis grounds completely. We installed a copper ground bus in the engine bay and reconnected all the grounds to the one common point. On some grounds we removed you could see the traces of some really bad arcing and some were just green from oxidazation or rusted to shit. Another benefit of doing this except of course that now I can enjoy my car again is that the rust will form way less now that chassis are not grounded but just bonded. YAY! Here she is: Cheers! ps: oh, and to add. Now I have lots of spare parts. Since we didn't know what's wrong, I ordered a pile of stuff that apparently was working just fine. So win win lol.

Please don't be sorry! I appreciate the input! And yeah, we did everything you mentioned. A few times. I am trying to convince my husband to help me build a standalone harness to bypass everything chassis connected and just connect the systems responsible for start up. But it's too labor intensive and I think the verdict will be to part it out... I agree however that it's most likely some wierd electrical grimlin in the system We both do equipment commissioning for a living and we saw similar situations with heavy machinery... Well, I will fight and double check everything again and if I don't find anything, in pieces she goes...

We repeated compression test a few times since last time I checked. My gauge that I checked first time apparently read a bit off but with two different gauges it reads consistent 160,160, 158. 160, 157, 160 from 1 to 6 with two different gauges and three times in different days with other systems off/on. I don't do "all-ish". ALL of them have been replaced. Even the ones that look good and ring true. All of them. And yes, I have a few batteries to choose from and was connecting it to regular terminals in the trunk and to terminals in the engine bay. Even unscrewed terminals in engine bay and cleaned them all....

Update: Finally got a new CAS in mail. No luck. I also got a hold of working oem ecu and again, no luck. It's a real mystery. A few friends of mine look at the problem too and they are as stumbled as I am. We went again through all the ignition system, fuel system, injectors, timing, sensors involved, replaced sensors with proven working ones (such as temp sensor, etc), completely disconnected all the wires from alarm system, checked neutral and clutch and other switches, throttle positioning sensor, pluged and unpluged NVCT solenoid, even brought the camera from work to see the injectors timing looking inside the pistons though spark plugs hole... All the relays are replaced, all the fuses are replaced, all the grounds checked. Went through wiring diagrams over and over and over again ringing all the wires at least three times... It seems like everything and anything was done. I have fuel, I have ignition but no start... I do have a consult cable coming in mail but both ecu we checked shows 55 code so I don't expect much when I get the cable. Just before I completely give up and start ripping it apart to sell in pieces... any ideas? ANYTHING? This is first time that even people who have seen quite a few RBs in their life just gave up on me... I love this car and rather see it on the road again. What are my options at this point? Seriously, is there anything can be done?

Took apart my CAS. Thought I will share my findings for those who is curious what's inside: Found this nasty stain on the disk and cleaned this with alcohol: After cleaning, I ran it on the Scopemeter and here is the readings: You can see that pulses are all over the map and are not consistent. It somewhat reads 120 degrees but absolutely blind to 1 degree. I guess the photodiode is fried from all the moisure that got in. This is also the R33 (left) and R32 GTR (right) CAS for comparison. The OEM part numbers for the CAS housing and internals are different and GTR CAS didn't read true as well on R33 ECU. So no luck so far. I ordered a new CAS just to find out that apparently you can buy the internals only and refurbish it. I am not sure if I am allowed to post the links here so if not, mods please delete. Here is the one I found on ebay for 1/3 of the price of a new CAS. Just hope that may be this info will help someone down the road http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-QUALITY-Nissan-Patrol-Serena-Skyline-Y60-C23-R32-R33-Crank-Angle-Sensor-/120991786051 Cheers!

Update: Swapped ECU. Same result. Put my ecu back, just for the hell of it (everything in pieces anyway lol), popped the valves and timing cover. I do have this half moon thingy at exhaust cams. Cyl1/cyl6 markes up to tdc by the book. Fuel pump gives me nice 43 psi. So after all that I put it all back together and started playing with CAS. After about 60 degrees (!) CW she started to sputter. I turned her off and ordered a new CAS. Can it be that the disk (or whatever inside) slipped from freezing/unfreezing? Electrically it works both ways and shaft aligns one way only... Well I will take the old CAS apart once I get a new one just curious to see how tjose things can be refurbished. I had problem with my logitech wheel for my GT5 game and after I ordered a/m optical disk - it worked properly. I assume CAS is similar encoder in operation... Well, probably will take at least a week to get new CAS and try again....

The compression across all 6 is 148ish psi. I did it before I parked it with compression gauge through spark plugs holes. Never done this with compression gun. In any case it was running close to perfect before I parked it. Nothing changed other than (-40C) for 4 months (had to park gtr inside - I need bigger garage lol). I think she is just being a bitch abd its her payback time for leaving her in the cold alone outside lol. I will keep you posted once I try ecu swap.

Hehe yeah I am too far Mick but I appreciate the offer

Was thinking the same thing re alarm. No, it is not wired to cut ignition or starter. Just doors. Bypasses all the vitals (which is not a good thing, lol. I will rewire it later to cut the ignition). Just took the ECU apart because previous owner told me that it has flashed chip. Nope. Everything factory and no piggy backs. Got hold of stock RB26dett ECU. I know it's based on two mafs and itbs but other than that pin layout pretty much the same. So, basically want to try to plug in for start up only just to rule out that my ECU is fried. Hopefully this will help... I tried to check for power and coil resistance first without taking them off. Today I actually pulled the whole damn thing apart and tried to start with injectors sitting on the blanket to see the pattern and if they all spit. They all have nice pattern and spit nice spray consistently. Coils...yeah...where I begin haha. I am kinda pro as far as coils go. I tried three different sets - my LS swap (thought first may be I screwed up with harness wiring), splitfires and oem. ALL of them shoot spark. The LS spark is so strong I was firing it with fire extinguisher ready lol. So, no, coils are good FOR SURE. Aero start. I took manifold off and sprayed the stuff straight in there. It shot very exsiting flames. But NO FREAKING START!!! Well, at this point I think that the only thing is something is out of order as far as firing sequence goes. Which brings me to believe that I do have faulty ECU. I will try tomorrow with RB26 ecu and if this damn thing starts, I am going to either buy new stock ECU or possibly to just go all out and get me a Haltech... Wish me luck Oh. and just to add. I swapped another CAS. Didn't help.

I confirmed by meter before, today I took them out. They work. Tried WOT start - still nothing. Tried that too. And here is another surprise. Tried the procedure with bridging pins. Guess what?!?! 55!.... I am really lost at this point

Thank you so much for the info Mick. Will try to work this out.

No. I am clueless as far as bridging the pins goes. And I don't have consult either. I should probably get one. Is there a manual for bridging the pins? I have a R33 service manual but all the ECU diagnostics there are based on Consult. All I did is checked inputs to ground with meter and corresponding device if it works. But of course cannot tell if ECU fires correct outputs...

Yep. Primes for 4 sec. It gets fuel all the way to cylinders because when I changed plugs, it was wet with fuel and I could see dropplets on the pistons. Also, when I flushed fuel, I did it with fuel pump through fuel lines just to be sure the pump works.

The car is R33 GTST RB25DET Series 2. Stock. She was sitting outside for 4 months all winter. She will crank but won't start. Here is what I've done/checked so far: 1. All ECU inputs and grounds checked - ECU checked for inputs at the connector only (maybe ECU is fried?) 2. Ignition - coils fire, harness rings true, connectors all ring true. 3. Changed spark plugs, tried different gaps, I have spark for sure. 4. Drained fuel, flushed with fresh fuel. Injectors fire, all of them. 5. CAS - works mechanically and electrically. 6. Timing belt proper tension, no slipping 7. Temp sensor works and gets signal 8. ECCS relays work and ring true 9. All the fuses ring true. 10. Battery is good. What the hell am I missing? Bitch won't start!!! Please help!

It is a pull type clutch that came with a chromoly steel flywheel, 6-puck cerametallic facing and a spring center damper disc assembly. Not sure what you mean by "button"? The clutch has maybe 3000km on it but I don't have any hystory if the break in procedure followed or not. I am quite sure that this clutch has seen more than two medium or "controlled" lunches and that it was taken to the drag strip before. Yeah, my biggest fear. Don't have the means or knowledge to drop the tranny myself and there are no shops around here that I can trust with my GTR. Well, waiting for the snow to come off (hopefuly in a month or so) and will start testing the system components, will swap the Nismo slave, and if nothing helps...oh well...I tried my best. At least I now know for sure what I have for the whole clutch system installed which is a definite bonus Thank you guys for suggestions and for taking your time replying. I will update this post with my progress as I go.