Ry_R34GTT

Thanks for the reply's. They do look better ceramic coatedhaha. Does anyone know what the power limit is on the stock manifold? and where i can source a new one?

Hey all i recently started pulling down my RB25 DET due to a loss in power and i was planning to send my turbo away to GCG to get it Hi-Flowed anyways. In the process i found a substantial crack in my exhaust manifold so now i am re thinking the hi flow option as now i need a new exhaust manifold. My end goal is running 300rwkw which i knew was a stretch for a Hi-Flowed anyway. My question is now that i need a new manifold am i better off getting an aftermarket manifold and t3/t4 turbo or just replacing it with a stock one and running the Hi-Flowed?

I know im just a little slow haha I believe all my problems have gone away now after i fixed the boost leak and cleaned the IAC Valve. No weird idle and car has alot more power but kinda feels like it pulls back slightly once it hits boost. Thanks for the advice tho Hadouken was very helpful

idle is still low and drops even lower when A/C is turned on. AAfter some research i should be cleaning the AAC Valve?

Went for a drive and she is pulling harder than she ever has been and my boost gauge was only hitting 7 psi instead of 10? Then i popped a hose that i must not have tightened properly but i lovely lady with a 200 sx came running out of her house with tools so could get it home haha

So i started her up and she started fine and went to die. Gave a little bit of throttle and she settled on idle so i let her warm up for a bit. Revs through the rev range beautifully but now at idle she sounds like shes missing occasionally so i disconnected each coil pack one by one and it sounded worse every time so the coil packs arent the problem. This problem is unrelated btw it was doing this for a week or so before she died.

sorry for the late reply i have been away. All the other plugs looked perfectly fine as i replaced them maybe 4 months ago or so but one was black and dry none were wet. Just before i went away i found a rather big split in one of the main intake hoses and i have just replaced that but the battery is dead so i have to wait for it to charge to see if it changed anything.

so i just pulled the plugs and only 1 of the plugs was dry carbon fouled. would that be enough to stop it from idling?

I have had a really good look and there is nothing as far as i can tell.

unplugged AFM and still no idle. FMIC was fitted about 3 months ago

Wouldn't a boost leak big enough to shut the car down after start up be massive?

Hey so i have googled and searched through the forums quite a bit and would still like a second opinion. For a while my 34 was having coil pack issues, one cylinder not firing occasionally and sounding like a truck/loss of power. The other day i was driving as per normal and all of a sudden under throttle i was losing all power and felt like MASSIVE drag so i pulled over. At this point it was idling fine and would rev through the rev range perfectly but once in first gear id take off normally and after about 2 meters it would have a huge power loss and drag. I managed to get the car home 2 meters at a time as i didn't want to leave it on the street (really bad area) and then had to reverse up my drive way as it was the only way i could get it up there ( too much power loss in first but not in reverse). I let it sit for a bit and now when i start it it starts perfectly and then dies straight out. If i giver it some throttle it is fine but is spitting out black soot and will stall once it hits idle. After hours of research i came up with the either AFM was not working, vacuum leak or faulty idle switch. So i pulled it apart the AFM and re soldered it and still no good. My question remains is the AFM faulty or is the idle switch faulty? any ideas? Kinda losing my mind haha

I did read that but struggled to make sense of it somewhat as i cant see the pictures? im a noob haha So basically without even fitting the boost tee i can get the 10 psi im after just by re routing the hoses and drilling out that small brass restrictor?

Another question thats rather off topic but seeings as we are here lol I went and bought my boost tee and when i was fitting it i noticed a small brass restrictor in the hose going to the waste gate. If i was to remove this wouldn't i get more boost and not even have to use the boost controller? or am i being retarded? Edit I think i relaise im being retarded cos then i would have no way off controlling how much is being bled off. should i remove the restrictor before fitting the boost tee?

If those parts start to fail they were probably not far off it anyway so im all good with that. was more concerned with running lean than anything,