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SSS_Hoon

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Posts posted by SSS_Hoon

  1. yeah they stop the heat from the head to the inlet.

    already tried waterspray not allowed to have it as it drops liquid on the ground and in a circuit race that aint good.

    also tried that c02 cryo stuff that was a waste of time but prooved it would be good for a drag but not a circuit.

    and in a race car that 0.1sec could mean coming 2nd instead of first and for the small outlay if it comes out to be true then it was money well spent wasnt it.

    ppl that call bs and junk without even tring it are tossers and need to grow up i reckon.

    the r32 gtr's already have 250awkw but restricted to 27mm inlets in the turbos so usless above 6300rpm so every bit of power helps them, already have a decent FMIC and piping, dry ice water to air setup would be good but the xtra weight might offset the gain though.

    again thanx for those that actually had something to contribute.

    SSS_Hoon

  2. Just wondering does anyone know of a place that makes the thermo bloc spacers for the intake.

    you know the gasket type things that keep the heat down and help with keeping the intake cool.

    i found some on outlaw engineering for the sr20de but not for the rb26dett

    SSS_Hoon

  3. It doesn't damage your actual motor.

    There's roumers its simply harder on your fuel system.

    Running toluene would be worse.

    But.. I have no idea. :P

    umm it has toluene in it as well.

    and its the fact that E blended fuel have a tendancy to wear out fuel componts and seals and the like.

    Ethanol has been around for many years as has toluene.

    there is nothing wrong with it for cars that can work with it, where nissan has said not too use it then i wont use it.

    as for more power well who knows, i have used all the 98RON fuels and i find that vortex is the best then BP then shell is the worst this is for my car that dont mean that its gospel and is the same for all cars.it coulda been that when i used the shell stuff that it was a bit older and therefor the octane rating had dropped from 98.

    if you use a 98ron fuel in a car tuned for 91-95 then it will make not much difference at all it can actually be detremental for the car and loose power and instead of cleaning it it could actually carbon it up.

    but using 91-95RON fuel on a car designed for 98RON that is worse, my gf new car Golf GTi needs 98 to run cannot use anything less then that, and VW say that you can use ethanol in there cars without a problem so i will be waiting for it too come closer too me out penrith way and then tell her to try a few tanks of it and see how it goes, but i wont be putting it in my pulsar that is for sure.

    goto this link to find out about the cars compatability with ethonal fuels

    http://www.fcai.com.au/ethanol.php/2004/11/00000001.html

    and here for the safty and spec sheet on the new fuel

    http://www-static.shell.com/static/au-en/d...ds_version1.pdf

    SSS_Hoon

  4. sss hoon dude stick to stuff you know as you dont know shit about the GTR awd system, the system is hydaulic drive clutch pack and you dont want to lock it up full time as it WILL tear the front diff apart as you will not have any slip between front and rear which becomes a problem went tight cornering (lowish speed) as the front wheels cut a wider arc then the rear and bang goes the weak link the front diff, you might ask why wrx etc dont have a problem but they have a lsd or open diff arrangement betwwen frt and rear NOT a LOCKER. I broke a front diff at the drags running a hydraulic lockup system by just turning off the corner at the end of the strip before releasing the system.

    mmm hence i said that i dont know what its called as its not my car my dad is the head mechanic on it not me :lol: and that is y they didnt go ahead with it as i already said that it wouldnt do what it was supposed to do.it was just a idea that they tossed up to stop the fwd from disengagin when the wheels locked up, they have another solution now(not sure if it will work though)

    as for school holidays i wouldnt know i not in school aint been for some time now.

    ok well does anyone here know how to trick the attesa ecu to think that everything is ok and not to go into limp mode and cut the fwd section? instead of attacking :lol:

    SSS_Hoon

  5. flame all you want its a free world.

    i dont know the name of the part/parts.

    its in the FWD part, the cog i guess you would say where the chain goes onto you know the part that disengages when you hit limp mode from a wheel lock up and stops the front wheels from moving i assume that its a few clutches or something that move in and out, well screwing a scre into that part so its on all the time. they decided not too do it as it wouldnt allow for the system too change the amount of fwd which they would like too keep.

    man now im confusing myself here :lol:

    BTW having a look underneath it wouldnt help anyway i would need to look inside you mean :lol:

    SSS_Hoon

  6. ok well seeing as they are not going to try the method they first thought i will post it up.

    now apparently the fwd section the part that selects fwd and deselects it, if you get a bolt and screw it into the centre that way its on all the time and you can get rid off all the associated gear and save some weight.

    they thought this was a bad idea seeing as its a circuit car and they would like the attesa to control how much 4wd is used as it knows best.

    SSS_Hoon

  7. my dad runs his gtr's at about 10:1 and is looking at making them even higher think he wants 11.5:1..

    r32 gtr n1 spec engine and turbos it makes max power of 254kw at all 4 wheels at 5100rpm and full boost at 3700rpm of around 24-28psi.

    has full motec ecu with logging race dash and according to the logging it should run mid 11's down the 1/4mile

    SSS_Hoon

  8. they aint drag cars they are circuit cars sorry i forgot to add that.

    i dont know for sure as tehy aint tried it yet but the theroy it should work,i dont want to post it up and have someon go and do it only to find out that it dont work.

    but as for the weight it involves getting rid of all the abs stuff loom ecu resovior pump and what ever else is involved with it, the only thing is you will have the light on constantly(take out the globe) and the 4wd will be on constantly also.

    SSS_Hoon

  9. i dont understand why you would want to get rid of the ABS in the first place? someone please explain that too me.

    and 2nd, my dads boss races 2 r32 gtr's N1 spec and one of them which is all standard ecu's, if the ecu detects a wheel lock up it disengaes the front wheels until the car has completly stopped and turned off and back on again.

    they tried it without the abs and the times were slower hence the abs helps.

    as has been said above the speed sensors is what does it they have tried 4wd aftermarket controllers and the like still does it, they are running about a 40/51 front rear split.

    there is away around it without all this wire chopping and the like you know, and you could take out about 20 or so kg of weight too.

    SSS_Hoon

  10. well hello long time no see :lol:

    i seen this beast in the flesh and as for the rust it aint that bad just the sills under the door well if there were a rear door that is and a bit in the boot rubber near the lock.

    needs the window seals though.

    i gotta say for a car made in 77 it has the lot, gotta love the stock boost guage even though it aint boosted :lol:

    i would say a set of xtractors for sure and a decent zorst, and a bigger carby.

    keep us updated Jono

    SSS_Hoon

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