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yoshiii335

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Posts posted by yoshiii335

  1. Hello

    I have a chance to buy a working HKS 2535, I will have to have a elbow made for it and buy the oil and waterlines.

    I was saving up money before this to get a Hypergear High flow, or a turbo from Sonic Performance for my car.

    At this point, I want about 300-350hp for the car. I want to see what its like to drive with that before I try to get higher horse power.

    I have a stock rb 20 det engine with a rb25 turbo, fmic, full 3" exaust from the turbo back, exhaust after the sports cat is 4 or 5 in., pod filter, and a mines tune. I have stock injectors.

    I have some GTR injectors now and have a chance to get the resistor pack for it or I might just buy the correct injectors for the car and not worry about wiring up the gtr injectors. Going at least 550cc if I dont use the gtr injectors.

    I know I will need a tune when I change turbos and add the injectors.

    Is the HKS still a good choice for the rb20? Or are the newer Hypergear 25turbo hi flows and some of the Sonic performance turbos better?

    I already asked about turbos before but I never considered a HKS 2535 or 2530. I spent hours last night reading up on old posts about the HKS turbos and the rb 20. Question is not if they are good turbos or not, question is if they are still worth putting on a car today with all of the newer turbos available today.

  2. Hello

    I have a change to get a working HKS 2535 for about 420 dollars. It is missing the water, oil lines, and turbo elbow for the intercooler pipe connection.

    Will a rb20 or 25 turbo elbow work? I will maybe buy the turbo if I don't need the HKS elbow. Wont buy it if I need it. Reason I am asking is because I saw before on HKS's website that for the GTRS, the kit comes with the elbow and other pieces. I cannot find anything on the HKS site about the 2535, probably too old.

  3. There are lots of people like you who buy things without knowing why.

    Wrong,

    There are people like me who don't buy a thing unless I know I need it and I know about.

    How about you ask if I do before you assume.

    Dont assume, you know the old saying with that word right?

    So everyone, you know the Disney movie Frozen? Well you know the main hit song? How about all of you who keep with the smart remarks just..."Let it go, Let it go.........."

    I got the info I needed early on in the thread, in fact I haven't checked this thread since last week.

    Move on, I have.

    Admins, please close this thread it you will.

    Thank you for those who helped.

  4. loooool.....come on OP, how can you expect to get serious help now, when you're asking the same shit 2 years later? It's not even a big decision, and I can't believe you've read that much conflicting information to make it that much a tougher choice. I'll help though - don't add a variable that doesn't need to be there. I had a tuner that thought it would be a good idea to wind up the base pressure so much that as soon as the rate rose under boost it would overload the fuel pump and pressure would drop, not raise, via the relief valve - even though my 550cc injectors were large enough that only a small increase in base pressure that was needed. And so I have to try and tell this experienced (and yes, he was a reputable, knowledgable and experienced tuner in all other aspects) why this doesn't seem to be a good idea. And yes after I got over the novelty of having a shiny adjustable FPR, I went to a larger 800cc injector and back to stock FPR....better in every aspect.

    For one, I know a lot more about cars now then I did two years ago. So I know more of what to ask now. Also for every argument for having a FPR, I find one against. This is searching on forums from different countries, etc.

    Also on this site in the RB20 Turbo upgrades with Dyno results section, there are lots of people with FPR's in their build. So no one has a definite answer.

    Thanks for your take on it.

  5. I am asking one thing,

    If you do not want to help please stay off of my post.

    You are a hindrance.

    I have learned much more about cars in the past time.

    I have read many posts saying that the stock fuel pressure regulator is fine with 550 injectors and its about setting the mix and etc. Also I read that it is not good and that a FPR is needed.

    I have read many articles and posts.

    So I read many other forums other than SAU. Your country is not the only other country outside of Japan that has had rb's and skyline's for years. Even in the states they have been there.

    So you can post all the links you want, if you want to help, good, thank you, if not please go away.

    The internet has millions of pages of information, I am not going to find everything.

    It seems many people have different thoughts on what needs to be done.

    So I will read more and go from there.

    If you really want to have a childish row, please take it and go else where.

    No time to waste, got to keep moving.

    If you want to help, I am listening.

  6. can i have your old injectors fpr and fuel rail pretty please

    If I ever get rid of them.

    If my stock fuel pressure regulator will support 440cc or 550cc injectors and allow me to get the full use out of them, of course I will keep the stock set up, but I did research and from what I found, it is recommended to upgrade the fuel pressure regulator.

    So please anyone, if I don't need to change it, just let me know.

  7. Your stock fuel reg will be fine.

    If you are so crap at searching I suggest you just spend a few hours reading the various subjects on this site - it could save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars.

    Also if you are planning to get an RB25 (preferably Neo) engine I also suggest you don't spend any more money on your engine but just save up for the RB25.

    Not going to get into a childish forum sprew with you.

    You don't know what I found. I asked the questions I wanted to ask after searching.

    I am learning to use what i have now.

    Its not going to cost that much to get over 300hp in my car. I might get to 300 or 350, etc and not want to change engines or get higher hp.

    Upgrading injectors, turbo(which is on its way out) and tuning for that is not going to break the bank.

    Here in Japan, the cost that shops charge to change out engines is the same as getting a GTR. Ive already been through it with shops asking about prices. If I buy a 25 or Neo 25, or 26 I am not just going to put it into the car unless I know its good and runs. Otherwise its getting refreshed to make sure its not a piece of c.

    If I do put a different engine in, it will be done with the help of people who know how to install the engine. That means finding people, wiring things up, finding a ecu, tuning etc. At this moment I know of no one who can do those things, mainly the wiring and other things with 25 into a 32.

    At this point I will simply up my hp some with bigger injectors, bigger turbo, tuning, it is a much cheaper option right now.

    Things are very expensive in Japan. Parts for rbs and engines have gone up in price due to the importation of many of the items (r32's) into the states legally now. Engines that are not a piece of c.

    Once I drive at least 300hp with what i have, then I will decide on changing the engine or not while I am saving for the engine change.

    If I come across a 25 or 26 for super good price and it runs, of course I will get it sooner than later.

    25 is not the Be All of engines. I read how people like Roy other people are perfectly fine with their 20's. I haven't cracked over 280-90 hp yet. So I have no idea how it is to drive a car with that hp.

    I have GTR injectors, if I am going to use them I will get them cleaned and flow tested, but they came out of my friend's gtr, they run but will do the cleaning and testing to be sure.

    Have access to a gtr resister pack and I have the info I need to wiring it to the 20's loom, and a friend who can help who has done it before.

    The injectors were free, so that saved me about 300 dollars for new ones.

    Turbo I can have rebuilt and hi flowed for low price, or by turbo that is only rated for about 300-350 hp for a low price.

    Have a gtr pump which is dying now, so have to change pumps anyway.

    So when ready for a different engine and if I still want one, I will buy it.

  8. Mike,

    I found this for you

    http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408500-will-i-need-an-aftermarket-fuel-pressure-regulator/

    Most cases, the stock reg will be fine unless you run an aftermarket rail but with new developments Scott Fisher (Scotty's customs) has developed an adapter so you can get the stock reg on an aftermarket rail.

    http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/rb25-stock-fuel-regulator-adaptor/

    I'm not sure if it will suit RB20 though

    I myself ended up going Nismo reg because I thought the stock reg was shitting itself (turns out it wasn't). Tuner said stock reg would have probably been fine too.

    Hope this helps

    Thanks

    Good read.

    Learned some new things.

    So I will make sure to confirm everything with the tuner.

    Car is old, want to make sure it has the additional support in place if needed before I go adding bigger injectors, turbos, etc and boosting up more.

  9. Mike,

    I found this for you

    http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408500-will-i-need-an-aftermarket-fuel-pressure-regulator/

    Most cases, the stock reg will be fine unless you run an aftermarket rail but with new developments Scott Fisher (Scotty's customs) has developed an adapter so you can get the stock reg on an aftermarket rail.

    http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/rb25-stock-fuel-regulator-adaptor/

    I'm not sure if it will suit RB20 though

    I myself ended up going Nismo reg because I thought the stock reg was shitting itself (turns out it wasn't). Tuner said stock reg would have probably been fine too.

    Hope this helps

    Thanks

    I have been looking on the internet but not finding what I needed to know.

  10. I suggest you get a Plazmaman Fuel Rail and also a Turbosmart FPR3000 and then twin feed the rail. You'll need all the fuel you can get.

    Whilst you're at it.. get an After Market Industries surge tank with twin Walbro 450L pumps.

    Hey dude,

    If you are not going to be helpful stay off the post.

  11. sell rb20, buy rb25 slap a hypergear turbo on and win :)

    but from your given choice.. best bet would be the hi flowed u21 from hypergear.. gives the best response and decent power on the 25, theoretticly would suit your 20 better? so that would be my pick plus you can sell it once your done with it since everyone is always after hi flows for the basic upgrade

    The results I have seen of people using the high flow 25 on a 20 doesn't look so impressive, most of the power seems to come on in the later rpm range.

    My turbo now is on its way out, used to make a whirling noise when winding up but now it makes a more low growling type sound and is super quiet compared to before. The turbo is old and it has been thru three cars so its probably time.

    I caned the car this weekend, as I learned about this slang today. I am already having problems with my car's fuel pump and other things from the caning I did this weekend so things to change

  12. Yes, caning means driving it hard. As in "hitting it with a cane", a la corporal punishment from my school days.

    Coils and ignition module are usually diagnosed via swaptronics with known good components, although you can also have a look at running coils in the dark to look for obvious spark leakage.

    CAS is obviously diagnosed using swaptronics unless you have an oscilloscope that you can use on the dyno to watch the signals from it.

    All this has been covered a bajillion times before, on this and every other forum.

    Didn't know about diagnosing a cas, never heard of one going bad. Don't have any extra to swap to check.

    Took off the coil packs yesterday when I cleaned the spark plugs, they are working fine. Can always double check with a voltmeter.

    I will check if I can find a used cas.

    So pump is pretty much going out, but the cas might be bad.

    Will check

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