daneprostamobrown
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Posts posted by daneprostamobrown
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Yea I back Ben’s call. Bad idea and no engineer will even bother
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i would suggest afew things for reliability.
get a crank collar fitted and billet pump gears. very cheap insurance and may as well be done while its out. these stock sintered gears break not just on limiter, but randomly too.
nitto head drain. once again cheap as and great for oil control.
forged rods of whatever brand with arp studs. not only stronger but lighter so engine will accelerate faster due to lower inertia. balance with crank and stock pistons
if arp main studs you will have to get the tunnel measured and probably honed to get it round again.
new genuine balancer and arp balancer bolt if the balancer is old as with lots of km's.
brand new tensioner and idler bolt and stud and new bearings
spend money on a good ecu with oil, fuel and coolant pressure and temerature sensors for engine protection. you can flog the living shit out of an engine with all that. big turbo and supporting mods is just optional for the future at that point.
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On 13/12/2015 at 7:49 PM, Duncan said:
there was a question elsewhere about the oil filter/cooler/thermostat system and I realised there were no pics in this thread.
I have a large oil cooler where the a/c cooler is factory. Upside down to help it drain if I need to. Custom bracket bolted to the radiator support and I'm about to add another bracket between the bonnet catch support and the bottom (top?) of the cooler because I'm not happy with how much it can move when bouncing over ripple strips
http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/oil-setup1.jpg
Removed the factory oil/water interchanger, mostly because they are impossible to clean once a set of bearings have been through them and they are $400+ to replace from Nissan. I now have a Stagea mount which angles the fitting nicely to an Earls relocator. Dash 10 Teflon braided lines.
http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/oil-setup3.jpg
Remote filter locator in right guard between the intercooler hose and the BOVs
http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/oil-setup4.jpg
Earls thermostat behind the reo under the headlight. This required a whole heap of fittings and strange angles. It also has mounts for temp and 2 pressure senders (currently factory and aftermarket gauge, I am changing the aftermarket gauge sender across to the haltech sender but the same basic setup.
The thermostat requires a lot of fittings but I think it's worth it considering the range of ways the engine is used; driving to events, cold mornings, endures, hillclimbs etc.
Close up
http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/oil-setup5.jpg
Slightly better perspective of location
http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/oil-setup6.jpg
Setup has been excellent, no signs of running either too hot or cold even in the most challenging times including 40o+ 20min rally stage
BTW, anyone thinking of doing braided lines, make them up yourself. They are straightforward with instructions and care. The much bigger trick is working out how to mount and route everything because fittings take up a huge amount of space.
sorry to bump this, but did you have these original photos? I am about to put a taarks block adapter, grex thermo filter relocation in my RS4S stagea in the void infront of the front diff and a 21 row pwr oil cooler where the factory SMIC sits. thinking of utilising 2 m6 sump bolts and some 4mm bent steel plate but thought these missing photos could provide some insight into other good options.
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Are the ikeya parts still available?
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30 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions.
Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.
My s2 c34 rs4s type b Definitly did not have a factory clutch switch.
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45 minutes ago, admS15 said:52 minutes ago, oxford1327 said:Old intercooler was return flow from just jap, new cooler flows heaps better intake tract is about 1.2mtrs shorter and runs a lot cooler to the touch even after about an hour of driving, still cold to touch, all new piping so clean as a whistle and showed no improvement with timing issues after changed to new cooler
The return flow should have been good enough to provide much better results than what you got, so would definitely not be the issue. Dosepipe's suggestion above is a good one.
I disagree I have dyno pressure drop tested my blitz return flow and they are crap. It’s my limiting factor currently but will be doing back to back comparison with new plazmaman pro series gtr cooler when I get around to fitting it
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Yea Mca 100%
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return flow intercoolers are shite. i have one and my next upgrade is to a plazmaman or similar. why you running a plenum spacer?
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What power are you trying to support? deatschwerks dw300 is a good e85 rated pump that supports good flow and is 39mm diameter body so is a “drop in” solution. Get like 3m or so of raceworks 400 series push loc hose (e85 rated) and change in tank lines, soft lines from tank to hard line, soft lines from hard line to fuel rail and also the short sections that are in the fuel rail. You will also need a 10 micron stainless filter. Not too sure if the oem fpr is suited for e85. This is my plan for when I get around to it.
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chasing a used pwr or plazmaman intercooler 76mm or thicker. if you have anything or want to upgrade to even bigger nows the perfect time to sell your old unit to me!
location: gold coast qld
price: gonna say im willing to spend 500 or potentially abit more if its pretty well brand new
cheers
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ok so bit of an update of things i did afew months ago,
finally got another brake/clutch switch and late a32 maxima / early y61 gu patrol steering wheel switch and put those in. it is the oem switch that bolts in to this steering wheel
got a full a32 nissan maxima cluster for some pins and the "cruise" light in the cluster.
i took apart both the stagea and maxima clusters and cut the "cruise" light out of the maxima one and slowly using acetone on a cotton bud, removed the black tint stuff and orange from the "O/D OFF" light as my c34 is manual so i dont need it.
clear nail polish cleans up the acetone job and makes it more clear
then i superglued the "cruise" light to the c34 cluster strip.
i then had to cut a small slit into the trace for the light pin i chose as unlike i originally thought, one end of the traces is NOT connected to ground so i needed to bridge it to ground with the solder pads i made and a bridging wire.
you cant see it very well as the photo i took is terrible but the final product is a fully oem looking clearly visible "cruise" light when i activate the cruise control.
next in the list of things to do is take the steering wheel off and investigate a bolt in solution for the clock springs by testing a early y61 gu patrol clock spring i got from a wrecker and i might then if successful make up some "kits" that will be a little bit more difficult to install than a headunit/sub amp and will require some amount of mechanical knowledge.
^ some testing i did with acetone on the junk maxima cluster. i found to make it as clear as possible it is best to do one small light wipe with the cotton bud then use a fresh section of cotton but to limit contamination.
^
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This was stolen only a few days ago so it could potentially have been this one. Should notify police
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Any other details? C34 Or m35? Series 1 or 2 etc or any other identifiable features? This kinda shit deeply angers me. Hope yours didn’t cop too much damage
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oh my ***k thats something i have never seen before! thats gotta be up there with the nismo ldc display cluster for rarity! epic piece mate!
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bump, still no progress so any help is greatly appreciated!
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Hey guys does anyone know how to remove the drivers side, side ac vent without removing the dash? So far I have managed to remove the bottom 2 Phillips head screws and the top one which required the speedo cluster to be removed but still can’t get the vents out. Pics for reference. Thanks in advance
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Salami
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Hypergear atr45ss2. I’d talk to tao though for the best possible tailored setup
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yea the wiring and everything would be easy enough as it would be similar to what i did, but the steering wheel and clock spring on a 34 would be the bit that needs more research.
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Would you be able to pm me some photos of their current condition?
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Also is the clock spring you have pictured above a maxima unit or stagea? Will add any new information I gather to my topic
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Hey mate thought you might be interested. I completely installed the cruise control system in my rs4s from an a32 maxima. Check my topic posted afew days ago.How many wires in the stagea clock spring are used for the tiptronic functions?
Abs or non? Wgnc34
in Wagoneers
Posted
You should have abs, so go the abs manifold