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Matvei27

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Posts posted by Matvei27

  1. 13 hours ago, Duncan said:

    Looks legit, not sure why it wouldn't be, they were extremely common.

    Historically a dash's value was determined by the klm it showed, not nissan vs nismo (nismo one is less practical as the increments are twice as close together = twice as hard to read). 

    These days Americans want them, so probably put it up for sale at 2,500 firm + postage.

    Changing the mileage on these is trivial assuming it's similar to the 32. You can make it show whatever you want.

  2. While I appreciate the GKtech being a superior design, the amount you've had to fuss with it scares me away a bit seeing as this is a road car. 

    Is there any reason I shouldn't just get some nismo arm mounts, and either whiteline adjustable bushes in the OEM/nismo arm, or JIC -10mm rubber bushed arms? 

    That combined with ikeya or hardrace tension rods, and hardrace rear upper and traction rods sounds like it would be able to align my car at the theoretically ideal 350mm height without resorting to rose joints.

     

  3. If the adjustable bushings from white line and the like tend to crack, what about shorter fucas with rubber bushes? The nismos are standard length, but it looks like once upon a time JIC sold shortened fucas with standard rubber bushings, and I could probably find a set.

    Edit: seems they might be too short though? Looks like they came in -10 or -20mm sizes.

  4. To clarify regarding sway bar links. I have ARC swaybars and ARC 'semi rigid' rear links that have bushes on one end and joints on the other. I've also seen Nagisa auto ones with joints on both ends (second picture). Not sure if it makes a huge difference but I thought semirigid would be better than full rigid for the road.

    Not sure what to get for the front links. 

    S13-R.jpg

    nisan_pillowlink_kit_R.jpg

  5. To be honest, it doesn't sound ideal from the perspective of a road car. I'm kind of surprised no one makes adjustable fronts with some sort of bush, either poly or rubber, instead of a beating. Unless there's one I don't know of. Might be better to just use adjustable bushes.

     

    Regarding sway bar links, are you using ones with ball joints on both ends, or bushings on one end and a ball joint on the other (semi-rigid)?

     

  6. How are the ikeyas on the street? You are running the poly front tension rods / rear traction rods or the rose joint versions? And aren't the front uppers from ikeya fixed, so you have to order the right size? I think you have to order the rear upper in a negative or positive version also...

     

    GTSboy, what else are you running aside from the gktech front uppers?

    I haven't seen poly uppers for the front or rear, but the reason I was considering using the poly bush ikeyas for the front tension rods and rear traction rods was to reduce NVH as this is a street car. Not sure how much more civilized they are compared with the rose joint versions of the same product.

     

  7. I ended up buying the Ohlins units after calling Labo Carrozzeria and confirming that they will still repair them.

    They answered the phone immediately and said as long as they aren't bent from say, being in an accident, they can still overhaul discontinued models. They will replace the pillow uppers with new ones as well. 

    Hope that is useful information for someone out there. 

    (oh, and if you don't like pillow uppers, they offer rubber ones now too).

    • Like 1
  8. The standard b6s don't have the additional circlip grooves though, and are valved differently right?

    I believe that would be how you guys are getting more than 30mm of lowering out of b6s, is it not?

    Since the car is 390/380 standard to get to 350/340 you'd need 40mm of drop which is beyond what a standard b6 can handle at least according to Bilstein (and beyond what my non adjustable links can handle too, but that's a separate issue)

    And as far as I can tell Gary isn't doing the modified ones anymore?

    So I could make my own monotube s-tunes with some b6s and springs, but I don't think I could go as low as you guys do with the modified ones even if I changed out my links and used even lower springs. To do that I'd need b8s and but it doesn't look like they have them for the r32.

    So I'd have to use coilovers IF I wanted to do that, but as far as I can tell the only monotube in production for the 32 gtst is the tein monoflex, or MCA in aus / meister in the UK?

  9. 1 minute ago, alexj said:

    For a road car B6 are great, bit stiffer than stock, can run a spring a bit lower than stock, I have them on another car. Sadly we can't get them for a gtst in the UK.

    Imo DFVs are "good" in that real Ohlins are quality, if they are final jp DFVs that are actually supported by Ohlins. But they often are reviewed as being a bit firm, at least for UK roads. A lot depends on the local road conditions.

    Yeah it looks like we can't get them in the USA either. I'd have to get them from Bilstein AU and ship them here. Like I said I don't really care if Ohlins in the US will service them, but if Ohlins JP (Yamaha) won't then it's a non-starter.

  10. I actually don't care if they need to be serviced in Japan, I have a Japanese phone number, debit card, and address. BUT, since they're discontinued I'm not spending $700 on used shocks unless I know they can be rebuilt to factory specs...have to phone them. 

    Are the Japanese Ohlins DFV any good, and are they better or worse than the Bilsteins with matching springs?

     

  11. Nismo was -20/-15, and 5.3/3.9. It's higher than what sydneykid recommends but I don't see how I would get a 40mm drop with standard b6s since they say 30mm max.

    As for the rates, I don't see anything wrong with them? They might be a bit soft for a trackday but I also have arc swaybars.

    I do imagine those spring settings were designed to work with stock or nismo links, which is what I have. If I went lower I'd have to change to adjustables yeah?

     

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