Matvei27

Changing the mileage on these is trivial assuming it's similar to the 32. You can make it show whatever you want.

While I appreciate the GKtech being a superior design, the amount you've had to fuss with it scares me away a bit seeing as this is a road car. Is there any reason I shouldn't just get some nismo arm mounts, and either whiteline adjustable bushes in the OEM/nismo arm, or JIC -10mm rubber bushed arms? That combined with ikeya or hardrace tension rods, and hardrace rear upper and traction rods sounds like it would be able to align my car at the theoretically ideal 350mm height without resorting to rose joints.

If the adjustable bushings from white line and the like tend to crack, what about shorter fucas with rubber bushes? The nismos are standard length, but it looks like once upon a time JIC sold shortened fucas with standard rubber bushings, and I could probably find a set. Edit: seems they might be too short though? Looks like they came in -10 or -20mm sizes.

They're discontinued. Is it worth buying a used set?

I guess whether I need adjustable camber in the front and more than normally available in the rear depends on how far I lower the coilovers, though it seems like adjustable castor would be useful at any height? My understanding was that reaching an ideal ride height would require a way to adjust camber in the front and more in the rear.

Just noticed this statement. Why the Nismo FUCAs with adjustable (white line/superpro?) bushes vs the regular arm? Isn't the Nismo arm for the GTST identical to the OEM one?

The arc bars I have aren't adjustable. They came with the semi rigid rear links and replacement bushings for the front oem links.

To clarify regarding sway bar links. I have ARC swaybars and ARC 'semi rigid' rear links that have bushes on one end and joints on the other. I've also seen Nagisa auto ones with joints on both ends (second picture). Not sure if it makes a huge difference but I thought semirigid would be better than full rigid for the road. Not sure what to get for the front links.

To be honest, it doesn't sound ideal from the perspective of a road car. I'm kind of surprised no one makes adjustable fronts with some sort of bush, either poly or rubber, instead of a beating. Unless there's one I don't know of. Might be better to just use adjustable bushes. Regarding sway bar links, are you using ones with ball joints on both ends, or bushings on one end and a ball joint on the other (semi-rigid)?

So how is the maintenance on the gktech uppers, are they better being Teflon coated or is it still a pain on a road car?

So the only arms you have with rose joints are the front uppers and front tension rods? Does anyone make front uppers with poly or rubber bushes (aside from Nismo which isn't adjustable and only comes in a single size?) And is the hardrace the only rear upper with bushes?

How are the ikeyas on the street? You are running the poly front tension rods / rear traction rods or the rose joint versions? And aren't the front uppers from ikeya fixed, so you have to order the right size? I think you have to order the rear upper in a negative or positive version also... GTSboy, what else are you running aside from the gktech front uppers? I haven't seen poly uppers for the front or rear, but the reason I was considering using the poly bush ikeyas for the front tension rods and rear traction rods was to reduce NVH as this is a street car. Not sure how much more civilized they are compared with the rose joint versions of the same product.

Well before I put them on since I'm going to need an alignment I was looking at adjustable arms, but I'd really prefer poly bushes to rose joints. I saw ikeya formula does adjustable front tension rods and rear traction rods with bushes, but it looks like they don't offer front and rear uppers with bushes to match. Any ideas?

We ended up chosing to have the shocks rebuilt with rubber uppers, and with softer springs (minus 2kg front and rear).

Potenza. I run the RE71R on my street car, it's fine. I guess they don't last as long as the RE004, but that's not as good a tyre as already stated above.

I ended up buying the Ohlins units after calling Labo Carrozzeria and confirming that they will still repair them. They answered the phone immediately and said as long as they aren't bent from say, being in an accident, they can still overhaul discontinued models. They will replace the pillow uppers with new ones as well. Hope that is useful information for someone out there. (oh, and if you don't like pillow uppers, they offer rubber ones now too).

Looks like the discussion on the B6 may not be relevant, Bilstein just informed me the rears are NLA.

The standard b6s don't have the additional circlip grooves though, and are valved differently right? I believe that would be how you guys are getting more than 30mm of lowering out of b6s, is it not? Since the car is 390/380 standard to get to 350/340 you'd need 40mm of drop which is beyond what a standard b6 can handle at least according to Bilstein (and beyond what my non adjustable links can handle too, but that's a separate issue) And as far as I can tell Gary isn't doing the modified ones anymore? So I could make my own monotube s-tunes with some b6s and springs, but I don't think I could go as low as you guys do with the modified ones even if I changed out my links and used even lower springs. To do that I'd need b8s and but it doesn't look like they have them for the r32. So I'd have to use coilovers IF I wanted to do that, but as far as I can tell the only monotube in production for the 32 gtst is the tein monoflex, or MCA in aus / meister in the UK?

Which king springs did you have on your modified Bilsteins? And you're saying even with a -20/-15 drop I really should use adjustable front and rear uppers and tension rods?

Yeah it looks like we can't get them in the USA either. I'd have to get them from Bilstein AU and ship them here. Like I said I don't really care if Ohlins in the US will service them, but if Ohlins JP (Yamaha) won't then it's a non-starter.

I actually don't care if they need to be serviced in Japan, I have a Japanese phone number, debit card, and address. BUT, since they're discontinued I'm not spending $700 on used shocks unless I know they can be rebuilt to factory specs...have to phone them. Are the Japanese Ohlins DFV any good, and are they better or worse than the Bilsteins with matching springs?

How low did you have them that you were still able to use the factory links? I'm already in contact with Tein in Japan, and I emailed Bilstein USA and AU to see about availability of those. Going to contact Ohlins as well to see if they can rebuild used shocks or make new ones to fit.

there's actually a set of second hand ohlins DFV (JP) that I could get, not sure it's worth buying for $700 and sending to ohlins for a rebuild though, and I'd have to confirm with ohlins JP that they could still do it as the one for hcr32 is discontinued

Just out of curiosity what teins did you have on your hcr? And I'm assuming on both cars you needed adjustable links, at least for camber?

Nismo was -20/-15, and 5.3/3.9. It's higher than what sydneykid recommends but I don't see how I would get a 40mm drop with standard b6s since they say 30mm max. As for the rates, I don't see anything wrong with them? They might be a bit soft for a trackday but I also have arc swaybars. I do imagine those spring settings were designed to work with stock or nismo links, which is what I have. If I went lower I'd have to change to adjustables yeah?