Matvei27

Looking for your R32 GTS-t Nismo 260km/h clusters or even just the individual speedometer. I am looking for ones with the blue faces and white/grey rear PCB, like the picture below. $300 USD per cluster or if you have one that has especially low mileage and the plastic part on the back is not so cracked, then I can offer more.

its optional. they are somewhat uncommon. but I am offering big $$$ to get one quickly to replace my broken one. I am sick of the YAJ game.

I have one of these. The flap on mine broke. I need either another console pocket or just the flap. I am offering minimum $300 USD if you can get me one quickly.

Looking for the OEM tape deck/radio that came on R32 Skylines. Picture is attached. The radio part on mine works, however the tape portion and the AUX to the CD player do not work. Therefore, I need one where the tape player part actually works.

Is there any service for people outside of NZ/AU to buy parts off of trademe? I saw an item I want but I can't even get the thing to let me register to message the seller. They probably have an address blacklist...I put in the USA embassy lol. Said the registration went through but you never get the email with a link.

It's real. Was available until they changed the logo in the late 90s.

I have both the ARC and Trust/Greddy SMIC units (the larger ones...they also made smaller ones but they're a similar size to the R34 GT-T unit and therefore are a waste of time these days). The ARC unit is slightly larger than the Trust one. However, the ARC unit re-uses the stock plastic duct thing whereas the Trust one comes with its own metal air guide. Whether or not this has any difference on performance is hard to say. I would guess that the best setup would be the ARC unit with some custom ducting instead. R32 GTS-t Length: 205mm Height: 190mm Width: 60mm Volume: 2337cm^3 R34 GT-T Length: 205mm Height: 220mm Width: 80mm Volume: 3608cm^3 Trust/Greddy: Length 240mm Height: 193mm Width: 103mm Volume: 4771cm^3 ARC Length: 240mm Height: 200mm Width: 108mm Volume: 5184cm^3 Anyway...as to how they perform...well it really depends on what gas you are using. A lot of the people on here get bad results with them because they are using 98RON pump gas. These things were made for the Japanese market and on the assumption that you would be putting in 100RON or better gas. I know people in Japan who have used the ARC SMIC with a HKS 2530, made 200~220rwkw, and had zero problems with detonation/pinging or heat. In fact, HKS' own demo cars for the 2530 (HCR32) and 2535 (ECR33) back in the day used SMICs. YMMV. But if you want to try it, here is an ARC one on YAJ: http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w122908114 If you don't have access to 100+ RON gas but still want to make 200~220rwkw...then it would be better/easier to use a FMIC so you have more efficient cooling (and therefore detonation prevention) to make up for the lack of fuel quality. If you do have 100+ RON fuel and you only want to make 200~220rwkw...then there is no reason why you couldn't use one of these. My friends in Japan were able to do this without a water spray kit, but I imagine in hot climates especially it wouldn't hurt to put one on. Cusco/Pivot used to sell one, but it's discontinued. You can make your own and buy the controller someone posted above. The Cusco/Pivot one is nice though because it comes with a perfect spray nozzle that really gives you a fine atomized spray over the IC. If anything I would see if you can find the nozzle and ignore the controller since it isn't as smart as the one posted above.

It won't damage it on 91 AKI (95 RON) as the ECU is capable of working it out but it will be in the protection algorithm the whole time. By law in Japan for gas to be called "high octane" it has to be greater than 96 RON. The majority of stations sell 100+ RON as high octane. Water/Meth is popular on the West Coast where 91 AKI (95 RON) is the maximum octane rating you can get at the pump. However the downside to this is 1. you have to buy/install a somewhat expensive kit 2. if something goes wrong and you do not have a failsafe you can blow your engine depending upon how aggressive your tune is. For E85, you would need a flex sensor and a ECU which is capable of handling various ratios of E85 and regular gas. So you couldn't use a PowerFC, for example, which is a downside in my book. That's why I suggested mixing your own 98 or 100RON as being the best option. It isn't that difficult to find, you can still use your PowerFC and tune for maximum power. The RB20/25/26 were never designed for the US market and were never EPA/CARB certified. They simply aren't meant to run on 87/89/91 AKI like you find on the West Coast. If you lived on the East Coast 93 AKI (98 RON) would be perfectly fine. Some importers, like japaneseclassics, are re-tuning their cars tune before putting them on sale because of this issue.

If I had a R32 GTS-4 I would probably use a RB25 Neo out of a Stagea rather than a RB26.

You'd be surprised. You can buy Sunoco 100 AKI gas almost everywhere, hell even the Shell station around the corner from me sells it. Just not at the pump. You aren't so lazy that you can't deal with gas that comes in a can, are you? I wouldn't waste my time trying to tune it if you aren't going to use something better than 91. The car is designed to run on 95 AKI (100 RON in Japan). The AUS people get away with 98 RON (93 AKI) but 91 AKI is low enough that you'll want to retune the ECU even if the entire car is stock. Here, go buy yourself some gas: http://www.racegas.com/fuelfinder

If you plan to tune the car and want to make power don't use 91 AKI. You need to mix your own fuel to get a higher octane rating such as 93 AKI or above (98 RON or higher). The simple solution is to mix Sunoco 100 AKI race gas (street legal) with 91 AKI at a 50/50 ratio to produce ~95 AKI (100+ RON). This will get you the best results. Let me put it this way: no point in upgrading intercooler, injectors, MAF, turbo, etc. and then cheaping out on gas. edit: another option is E85 but depending upon where on the west coast you live this may be harder to find than Sunoco race gas (which by the way is sold all over the place, go on their website and look at the store locator).

RXB is sold, sorry.

Price drop: $275 AUD

Bump! Still available for $300 AUD shipped worldwide.

The GTS-R was a successful racer in its own right. But you're right, most of the people who are "interested" in these cars don't know anything about them and don't have the money to buy one anyway.

Price drop > $300 AUD shipped to anywhere in AUS or NZ. (I can also ship anywhere else worldwide for you but this site is Australian...so). Buy my RXB!

We've had the R30 and R31 available for years; don't understand why more people didn't import those. Anyway, I imagine our cars will become thief magnets but that's nothing an immobilizer or alarm setup can't fix.

just buy a f**king gt-rs and be done with it...it's practically perfect on the RB25.

OK, then I will match that. $330 AUD shipped. I just want it gone.

The RXB retails for $400 AUD in Japan...so at $400 AUD shipped you are getting EMS shipping on a very large item for free.

Nismo speedo is sold, just the RXB left.

How about $400 AUD shipped for the RXB and $130 AUD for the speedo? Everyone wants stuff but no one wants to pay to ship it.

I'm open to any offers...come on

I will do $425 AUD for the Do-luck bar and $150 AUD for the speedo including shipping to Australia or New Zealand.

I don't have a GT-R since for a daily driver it isn't worth it, but I have a R32 Type M so similar things will apply: Unless you have service/shaken records, don't trust the KM on the odometer. At all. If you have the service records, find out the last time the timing belt was replaced. The RB engines are all interference. If it snaps you are f**ked. If you don't have the records and don't know when the timing belt was last replaced, or if it hasn't been replaced, do it immediately. It's not worth the risk. The service interval is usually 80,000~100,000km or every 5 years, whichever comes first since rubber deteriorates. Change it to a Nismo or other strengthened belt for more peace of mind. The US and the rest of the world measure fuel octane differently. The US uses AKI (RON divided by MON) whereas everyone else uses RON. 93 AKI is the same as 98 RON. You will be okay without a retune unless you have an aftermarket ECU. If you want to get the most performance, use something else (I use 95~96 AKI).