zelda
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Posts posted by zelda
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Could be keen on skirts and rear bar if the shipping isnt a small fortune josh
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installed bonnet damper kit today. it is for 350z but could be fitted on m35.
need to drill a hole on each side of fender due to m35 doesn't has it as stock (350z should have the hole as stock)
need 2 medium length bolts and nuts also.
open to stock height
happy with $60 delivery
Looks like a handly little mod, interesting silicone hose layouts/ colour choice there mate!
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Does someone still have an active link for those thermostats? Or possibly the suitable operating temperature for them? I see there are a few options out there including single inline type or supply and return type thermos, could anyone recommend what to go for as my set up will be stand alone cooler seperate from the radiator, hoping to fit it in somewhere behind the grille but always open to more advice, many thanks
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So still havnt managed to get the boost tester on it yet, but engine light came back on again today after drving open roads for about 150ks
P0171 is back left bank lean
P0120 throttle position switch
P1122 any one got any clues to this one??
Thanks again for your input guys
Zach
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Id like to turn my intake 180 deg (forward facing like what mercury developed). Will shorten the time taken to reach the intake and increase response
Hot pipe it josh ?
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No big deal Josh.
You can get the 29mm recirc adapter and adapter plate from Nengun.
I used a Subaru adapter plate and just reamed the holes to realign them.
Just counter sink the plate and use counter sunk adapter bolts and take a nick off the side to clear the throttle body.
That's it.
It's well worth the install.
The valve travels so well, the intake recircs like it should.
No shudder, black smoke, dumping fuel.
Really smooth.
The Greddy is 40mm , Turbosmart 22mm, plus the Greddy FV is so adjustable with the two springs plus the wind in plunger.
By far the best thing I've done to this car so far.
I had a custom pipe welded up for $60, bought a couple of vac nipples to screw in and used a universal turbosmart kompact which had a 32mm base, easy peasy and asthetically good looking
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Is there any reason i couldnt pressure test it at the suction pipe and cap off the bov return? I might sound stupid but would this in theory test through the turbo for leaks and save me getting under the car? Just a thought cheers
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When you say checked for leaks, did you pressure test the intake at 20psi+? I have seen many leaks that would never be found using a smoke tester or visually, 20 psi into the intake usually sorts them quickly.
The other common issue is the fuel reg hoses, they commonly fall off as there are no barbs. Make sure you cable tie both ends. Checking the reg at base fuel pressure you will need to remove this vac hose.
Other than that, before you start swapping turbo's, have you tested the test device? I have seen more boost gauges fail or reading wrong than wastegate actuator problems.
I'll have to check with my auto spark, he found the leaks and didnt mention weather it was pressure tested or otherwise,
As for the reg hoses they are tied on and im always checking just in case one does pop off, checking for the base pressure im assuming it can be either one scott?
As for testing the tester, well i still run the factory gauge ( not much to go off i know) as well as the AM one which is a brand new unit, T'd off just before the factory boost gauge sensor, since the problem arose the factory gauge has never hit the same mark ~1bar
I think the next most sensible step is to make a boost leak tester and rule it out for myself, although iv been vigilant in sealing everything and tieing all hoses etc it needs to be seen with my own eyes, and ill let you know how it turns out, any one got any pics of there home made boost tester suited for the stag?
Thanks again!
Zach
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I haven't checked OEM pressure, I would assume 43.5 psi with the vac line removed. Would be worth checking the spec.
I would also check the Oxygen sensor...is it average on fuel?
I would hope the o2 sensors good as the dump pipe was only put on about a month ago, pretty comfortable my mechanic would of pointed it if it was the case, he did mention it was in a way more sensible place haha, yeah the fuels about right ~ 650km per tank mixed driving
Ill see if i can find the spec for the FPR and give that a go othewise im leaning towards rebuilding the turbo ?
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Check fuel pressure, check manifold for leaks or cracks. Lean code could also be a misfire. Coil packs or plugs.
Checked for leaks, although it wont hurt to do it again, plugs have been done LFR7s iridium if i remember,
Is it worth putting a FPR with a gauge on ? Relatively cheap and harmless to do i would imagine - whats the standard pressure about 44psi ?
Cheers
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Does it sound like this kind of whine ?
Hard to say in comparison but yes similar
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Hey everyone,
Having some issues with the stagea i cant quite figure out.
Dont like starting a new topic and iv done some extensive searching on these forums so heres the rundown
Car has HDI kit, custom bov pipe ( 3inch from kit ) kompact bov, changed vac hoses except one with restrictor going to WG actuator, boost solenoid blocked off so should be running on wg pressure, scottys dump pipe and a walbro 255 not yet on 12v constant.
Somewhere along the line it threw a lean code on bank 1 P0171, i had the fuel pump done along with filter etc thinking this might clear it but to no avail, however the car still idle fine just bleeds off boost around 9psi according to the tyrbosmart guage not the usual 12ish it used to even after ditching the solenoid.
So i dropped it off to a reputable auto lekky and had him throw the scanner on it and run some tests, he found a couple of small leaks and while i was there i had the injectors flow tested and serviced for peace of mind.
Got the car back, the code had gone but still bleeding off at 8/9 psi and still rather whiney ( as always ), about a week later the CEL came back and gave me the lean code again along with Electronic throttle control ( guessing TB ) and throttle or pedal pos sensor, assuming they both go hand in hand.
Unfortunately i needed the car for the week and couldnt get it back to them to investigate further
Strangely enough two days later i start the car and now the codes are gone? It feels like its got a little more grunt now too but still bleeding off early!?
Sooo im scratching my head, could the AFM be going? Or the wastegate opening early? Heat is not proving to be a factor with the gate AFAIK, the idle is always 650 once warm, idle inHG is around 18/20 ish as mentioned drives fine untill that 8/9psi mark then just spins no more and is a sluggy sounding whistle really.
Anyone willing to throw in some input is greatly appreciated,
Ps will change the lower rubber pipe before intercooler not supplied with hdi kit to this dolphin hard pipe when it arrives.
Cheers!
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By a screw looking at a few posts up....
Yeah how far can you screw it in, how do you stop just the screw from unwinding and get the restrictor to follow- ? Cheers again
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Best way to remove the restrictor? Sorry sounds a little noob i just dont want to damage the banjo threads
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Soo finally got scottys dump in, what a great bit of fab work, definately reccomended.
Changed the fuel pump/filter/oring in the hopes it would clear my lean code ( 0171 ) sadly it hasnt but still yet to run a constant supply, maybe that will do it.
And picked up a set of r34 gtt front brakes to keep me busy for the long weekend!
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Cheers guys i ended up getting them, might source some new rotors and pads all round me thinks- seems everyone is +1 for slotted?
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the r34gtt's with the 310 rotors will fit, i have them on my axis. they had restrictors that i pulled out, cut the dust plate, and took a bit off the bottom of the hub. all good.
Cheers bro, the caliper bracket didnt need any mods?
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the r34gtt's with the 310 rotors will fit, i have them on my axis. they had restrictors that i pulled out, cut the dust plate, and took a bit off the bottom of the hub. all good.
Cheers bro, the caliper bracket didnt need any mods?
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Hey does anyone know if the r34 gtt calipers have the restrictor too?
Eyeing up a pair and they say the rotors it comes with are 310x30 would this still bolt up or do i need 296x30s
Thanks in advance
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So uhh splashed out today, picked up some varrstoen vs2 19x9.5 et35 and some 235/35/19 bridgestone potenza RE003 pics to come
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Which release bearing carrier did you use? Chased the same problem for a while , swapped the carriers over and good as, one was about half a mm different in length just holding the clutch off
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Now have tyres mounted, 245/40/19 Nitto Invo's, will be on as soon as I get some longer wheel nuts, current ones dont quite make it into the seat properly with the extended studs.
Nice looking wheels, post the photo when all together. Loving the plate too ?
These will be widened in the near future, just needed new rubber and got impatient.
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Pm sent cheers
Ebay Finds
in Wagoneers
Posted
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/322080893957
Might of already been seen, anyone run them?