Wetherhead622

Well I pulled apart the lifters and cleaned them all. But I never bleed them . So they would have been soft when I put them back in . Therefor making the slapping noise because they are bottoming out and slapping on the cam draft it self ?

I was just talking to a engine builder . He thinks it's because I didn't bleed my lifters . So it would have to be it ?

Yeah that's what im pretty sure the guy before has done . I will be running the next motor with vct . But not this one .

The rb20 cam . Was so I could get the ajustable cam gear on . Don't you drill out the oil galley ? Like one of those welsh type plugs ? I can't remember what that guy I bought it off said ?

It would be welded . Also I'm not running vct . It has a rb20 intake cam and ajustable cam gears . There for deleting vct altogether ? And the knock / tick is coming form both cam I'm pretty sure

Hello all . I have built a rb25/30 the car runs well enough and revs fine and smooth . The only problem is there is a top end noise . We think it's the lifter . Also have put lifter cleaner in , We changed the lifters taken them out and fully cleaned them. It got better, but was still there and slowly got worse. Now there is a consistent knock. No distinct area of the noise . We don't know if it had a restrictor or not . The head has the vct mod and all . Would any one know what the problem is or even what we could do . I'll also try up load a video on YouTube

I ended up testing the way . I found that it had a little bit of slap as some said it would . So I now have changed to a new way again it seams to be the best way for me . I would change blocks but the motor is in the car . Thanks for every ones help

I'll have look in to the 1jz tensioner as my friend is rebuilding one . I just trying to find a better way to run the belt. As I can't run the lower lide pully

Thanks for the reply . The motor won't be pushing over 300ktw Im going to get the slo mo camera if looks ok I'll run it and if it flaps round I'll changw it to a diffs to set up

Hello every one . I'm new to the rb25/30 build . I have that shit block that makes it hard to run the timing belt. ( no flat surface . I got the top tensioner Drilled and tapped . I know if you run it the normal way with the new location It's a 152 tooth belt . And run with the other way a 150 tooth belt . I put a 150 tooth belt on with just the top (relocated tensioner) with no left one . It seams to work fine ? Car starts and runs the timing marks line up and that . My question is has any one tried this ? And is this a possible way to run this set up