Stixbnr32

Well except for XLLABA's (awesome btw) build then the R35 could be better in traffic but no one has these cars to sit in traffic do they? I like my little R32 feels like a light weight to the new fatties that are out. but all GTR's are great there is a reason they are still feared on the track and street. My vote is a R34 to many down sides on a early R35 i think. 2012+ if you can afford it. There is an aftermarket package that you can buy that fixes some of the gearbox issues on the track for the R35. Gearbox coolers etc.

The old manual vs manual (dual clutch paddle shift) debate. If you want to go fast really fast then its paddle shift all day every day. If you want to be more connected with the car then maybe stick is what you like. There are a few vids on the net of R32 (mod) vs R33 (mod) vs R34 (mod) vs R35 (std) in japan. Really good watch haha.

Interesting - the tuner that did it is a native Japanese (used to work for Nismo afaik) and he is HKS certified. He tunes big power GTR's here in NZ/Aussie (when called) and other big power cars. It just had a retune after the rebuild and has the same little cough. I will pop him another call get him to check.

Yeah called the tuner he does think it could the ignition harness and ignitor. Ah well might have to replace after all it is 25 years old Other than that the car is running perfect and goes hard. Thanks for the help much appreciated.

New Nismo Race pump with FPR.

Yeah it is at the same load point. So you could be in 4th at 2k rpm. just put your foot down it cough/miss. as soon as you go past it she's mint and its so brief that it just more annoying than anything. It has Tomei Poncams in it as well as cam gears. it still happened before the engine was built and before i had new turbos (-5's). Did it happen before i had the computer? I couldn't tell you have had it for awhile now.

Hello, Will give you guys some background. R32 GTR - built engine. I have had this cough nothing major when cruising around the city or on the motorway at low RPM. As soon as it happens (its not even major) it is fine and you can accelerate fine. It does happen when you start to accelerate. Have new platinum spark plugs new spitfire coil packs (did this after i did those before it was built) HKS F-con pro (latest version) HKS EBC Forged blah blah blah. Now I was thinking it could be the wiring harness to the coils but not 100%. Like is said there is no miss/cough anywhere accept when you start to accelerate from low rpm and its not even major but it is there.

caps lock will not fix your car's tune

Good point on the service price. I still love the R35 they are beasts. Although my little car goes well haha.

Link G3 or G4? plugin? compression? number of things the tuner needs to know. Needs to plugin his sensors and to tune the car correctly. If not you are looking at a expensive fix up job when it goes boom. if you suspect it has a poor tune i would take it in now.

Hit up the Nitto kit I have heard good things. I heard JE pistons have piston slap when they are cold form multiple people. Doesn't mean its not good just loud when cold.

I will tell you my experience. I had a unopened motor with -5's and they were a little laggy (running 345kw atw) but on the open road they are great. In the city not to much (as above). When I rebuilt the motor and did head work now pushing 400kw the -5's have come alive. Still running 2.6L and they are more than fun anywhere haha. I wouldn't waste money getting 2 different sets of turbos (selling one for a loss later) if you plan to rebuild. Go for a set you want to keep deal with the lag at first then benefit later when you rebuild. Less cost when you do rebuild. Also as Jeremy Clarkson said - lag can be fun at the lights when people think they are winning then they wonder where you have gone.

Nitto state that it is made from billet metal even it is made in China the engineering would be top notch. JE pistons would piss me off with the piston slap while cold. bugger that. my Tomei pistons are silent all of the time. Get a tome 2.8 kit

Thats right - well my exhaust and dumps were already purchased/installed and intake etc would all require modifying.

I have nitto conrods in my 2.6. Does that count for anything? In all seriousness they seem to be quality parts from would go with them.

Yup everyone thinks its easy to just slap a Rb30 together for a GTR. If its twin turbo its a mission since it lifts the head up 35mm. When I did my build it was a minimum of $4000 extra on top of my forged motor. So I set about keeping as god intended it. 2.6L TT. Sort of wish i went a nitto stroker haha.

I have heard rumours that they have more failures then just the transmission - ABS unit and the likes can fail and cost $$ to replace. Also heard a big cost is running - as when serviced they require a lot more then just engine oil etc. Heard it costs about $3k every service (COULD BE WRONG don't destroy me). Not that I own a R35 (got a 600hp R32).

I run -5's on a 2.6 build great build - full torque from 5000rpm but useable from 4000. ran them without been forged and had 345kw atw - oil pump failure caused me to forge it now run 402kw atw with same turbos.

92 R32 GTR Head: Tomei Valve Springs Tomei guides and retainers Port and polish Tomei PonCams Type B Tomei cam gears Turbos: -5's Dump pipes 3.5" exhaust HKS hard pipe kit Mines intake Fuel/Spark HKS F-con Pro HKS EBC spitfire coil packs 600cc nismo injectors Nismo race pump R34 fuel rail Tomei reg Bottom end R33 block Nissan New crank Nitto Con rods Tomei forged pistons Nismo Rings Tomei head gasket Tomei oil pump Trust sump extension Twin plate clutch Results (will pop up dyno sheets soon) 402 ATW KW 370 KW on the road.

Just in case anyone wants to know the answer. They fit with angled spacers. clear winder and the door card.

Hey, I am looking to install a set of Focal PS 165 FX speakers which have a mouthing depth of 77.2 MM. Has anyone installed these and cleared both the window and the door card? I know other 6.5" components can fit like the Alpine Type R's but they have a mounting depth of 52mm. be good to find out if anyone has had any experience with these speakers. Cheers

Yeah boost leaks? Clutch slip? Wheel spin on dyno due to bad rubber on the roller since you said you are not using 4wd (you said rear's)?

30 Block lifts the head 35mm so the turbos are sitting higher - run into a lot of Fab work to get it setup.

No problems with boost with the -5's and Type B's for me. Was a healthy 345KW before I started the rebuild.

Ditch the n1 oil pump no matter what gears are in it. Go Tomei/HKS/Jun every time - in that order. Get a trust sump extension - they wing the sump so its out to the left/right. -5's will be fine with a good set of CAMs/Gears. I had this with standard internals - 345KW at all 4's no issues until i dropped a big end bearing due to oil pump failure.