Brad13

I know this question has been asked plenty of times on here already and I've tried majority of the tips and suggestions made in other posts with no luck so far. I've had squealing brakes since I bought my 96 S2 R33 GTST about 6 months ago. First thing I did was take it to the mechanic to have all 4 rotors machined and brand new bendix pads on all 4 corners (Can't confirm if they are ultimates or not, he told me they'd remove the titanium strip before putting them in, not sure if only the ultimate pads have this?). This cost me a fortune but I also wanted the mechanic to have a bit of a look over the car to check for any serious issues - which luckily there weren't! About a week later the squeal started coming back, I took it back to the mechanic and he said there weren't any problems with the pads but instead they could put some shims in which they wanted another $400 to do. I tried some of that red anti squeal CRC stuff to see if I could fix it myself, I thought this had done the trick but about another week later the pistons had worn through it and were touching the metal of the pads again, my pads sounded like they were screaming - so horrible to hear! I decided to buy some of those universal shims that you cut to size and stick to the back of the pads. Surprisingly these didn't work at all, squeal is still as bad as ever. I have no idea what else to try, I'm considering buying new bendix ultimate pads and giving them a go but feel that could be a waste of money. Does anyone have any idea of what could be causing this? The squeal is so loud it not only hurts the ears of everyone in a 20km radius, it's super embarrasing and is turning me off driving the car - so needless to say, this needs to be sorted out soon!

I've had it up on stands a few times and checked over the exhaust & mounts with no luck. It doesn't affect the way it drives but does vibrate a bit. Only makes the sounds under a bit load in 1st or 2nd usually, so it might be hard to replicate the sound on a hoist as well. It's doing my head in trying to work out what it could be!

Sorry to drag this thread up again but has anyone had any luck with the rattle? I've checked my heat shields and the transmission mount seems ok. Still a bit stumped as to what else I should be checking??

How annoying is it?! Such a painful sound man haha. There are a few things like the heat shields and rear diff I need to check a bit closer once I have a chance to get it up on some stands. What have you tried so far? Just so I know a few things I can eliminate. I've also realised I'm missing an exhaust bolt/nut at the top of the dump pipe. Not sure what size these are and I didn't know whether you could use any type of bolt due to the heat it'd have to withstand. Are you missing any as well by chance?

I can't hear the noise in neutral, it only ever happens at low rpm. You can feel a bit of a vibration through the seat but it's not too violent. No feedback or vibration through the gearbox either, that all seems ok! It's hard to describe the sound, it is what I would expect a loose heat shield to sound like so I'll definitely check that, thanks. I've only had the car for a couple of months now so I haven't checked out or serviced the diff yet. Still trying to sort out some of the problems that were there when I bought it.

Thanks man, I was under the impression that the bump could be diff related. Is there a fix for it or will it need replacing? As for the rattle, I haven't checked heat shields. To be honest I had no idea where to start with this, I would've thought the rattle would be there all the time not just in the low rpm range if it were that. Any in particular that are more likely to be the culprit?

Hey guys just wondering if anyone can shed some light on a couple of issues I'm having with my 96 S2 R33 turbo manual. I have a weird rattle noise when I accelerate at low rpm. It goes away after say 1500-2000 rpm but anything lower than that doesn't sound very good. It doesn't seem to affect the way it drives but I would still like to determine the problem here. My hicas light does come after going for a drive, stopping for a bit, wand then once the wheel is turned the bloody lights comes on and doesn't go away. Not sure if this has anything to do with it because the rattle noise is always there regardless. Steering isn't affected when the light comes on either, power steering all works fine. Another problem is that after I accelerate and back off, I get a bit of a bump that almost feels like a push in the back. Kind of like the feeling you get in bumper cars when someone lightly runs into you from behind. I have no idea if any of these are related at all, but they're issues I want to get sorted out so I'd really appreciate and help or advice you guys can give me!

Bump

Hi Guys, I bought a pair of R33 Series 2 headlights for my Coupe without realising they're the 4 door style. As you can see in the photo's they are in very good condition, no cracks and nothing missing. Asking $150 for the pair. Located Auchenflower 4066 (Near Brisbane City)

Interesting, I'll give it a go next time I have the chance and let you know if it does anything!

We didn't try it with the headlights on, it might be worth giving that a go too. Are they the lights it's referring to?

I didn't even know skylines had that feature, thanks man! Bit gay though haha

A mate of mine has this switch on his centre console in his series 2 R33. Can anyone tell me what it's for? Whether or not it has anything to do with it, I'm pretty sure it used to be an auto and a previous owner has done a manual conversion. Any help would be awesome!

Probably not a bad idea, thanks for the tip!

Scratch that, found the boost line that had come off!

Hey guys, Did a bit of a service on my 96 R33 GTST today. Changed the oil, flushed the coolant, & replaced the oil and fuel filter. I also pulled off the coil packs in an attempt to change the spark plugs however didn't end up having the time so I put it all back together. The car starts and runs fine, however my boost reading now just sits at 0. Does anyone have any idea what this would be? I have the stock gauge on the dash and a blitz dual turbo timer and both just sit dead still at 0. I have another boost gauge mounted on the pillar and that seems to only move from -.5 to 0 bar when spooling. Any help at all would be very much appreciated! (Sorry by the way if there has been another topic that has answered this, I had a look already but couldn't find anything helpful besides checking the boost line isn't split which it doesn't seem to be) Thank you!

I tried a different switch from a mate of mines r33 with no luck. I ended up pulling off the door cards to see what was going on behind there and found this Another connection had been plugged in but was cut off and went nowhere. Found the mirror plug was just sitting there. This was the same on both sides. Plugged the mirrors back in and they both work now! Absolutely no idea what the other plug was doing in there. Now I just need to work out how to make the mirrors fold in and out as when I switch it to that it still just seems to angle the mirror as normal.

I had that out last night, pulled the loom from the back of the switch and plugged it back in. Still nothing unfortunately..

Hey guys, I recently bought an R33 Series 2 GTST and am having a problem with the electric mirrors. I can't adjust or retract/extend either mirror, it's as if they're not connected. I've checked the switch and it all seems to be hooked up alright, I've checked the fuses in the drivers footwell and none seem to be blown (Not 100% sure which fuse is for the electric mirrors) .As both mirrors aren't working and neither makes any noise when I try to move them the only other thing I can think it might be is that the mirror control switch is playing up. Can anyone here confirm that this would likely be the problem or has anyone experienced this before? Apologies if there is already a thread about this, I know there is another one that's but it only seems to be when one mirror isn't working, not when all controls seem to have gone. Thanks in advance!