wardie

Just go and buy some fuel hose from repco/autopro/supercheap and cut the old hose off and replace it with the new hose. I have done this with all my injectors as well as adding hose clamps at the injector end. No more leaks. Wardie

I've had the hole in the back of the water pump twice now. Got it welded the first time and replaced it with one from an L20 the second time.

Denis can you PM me your phone number please. Can't find my charger to get it out of my mobile. Wardie

G'Day Dennis, Sorry about not getting back to you, I actually forgot I had posted this. Both phones are off for now, we got slammed by the ATO due to some unpaid taxes left over from my wife's hair salon (NEVER trust a business partner!!) so things have been a bit tight. I'll try to give you a call from work in the next day or two. Wardie

Thanks MAG86, I may take you up on that. Wardie

G'day, My '83 MR30 Hatch has just failed rego due to rust in the front lower guards behind the wheel arches. I suspect that these guards will be rare as due to them rusting in this area but does any one know of a source. The only local wrecker that has R30 parts doesn't have a good rhs guard which is my worst. I'm on the NSW Central Coast but any suggestions will help. Thanks Wardie

Sorry Guys. I forgot to say its a '83 R30 Hatch. and it has a pretty slack steering box The hassle with getting the disks machined this weekend is none of the places round here can do on car machining so I'll have to pull the hubs/disks off the car. The reason for the post is I was hoping that I would be able to get through next week by cleaning and fitting the 2nd hand ones while I source new replacements or arrange to get mine machined if they are in tolerance (300K on them). The calls I made today leads me to believe that getting them done on Sat won't happen. Wardie

Had to do some seriously heavy braking on the freeway a couple of days ago and now whenever I touch the brakes over 80 I get a serious shake through the steering. Under 80 I can feel the car modulating as it brakes. As I pull up to a stop I have to ease up on the brakes so it doesn't pull up on the tight spot. There is no real pulsing through the brake pedal but I have had the steering checked for correct alignment and have swapped the wheels front to back with no difference. One mech says it's a warped disk, another reckons it's the slack in the steering box causing the shake. I lean towards the disk. I can get a disk(s) of a wreck on Sat but they are rusted. Can I hit them with the wire brush to get the worst off then expect the pads to do the rest or will I have to get them machined? Need to have the car for next week as the boss has pulled my leave and I now have to work. Thanks Wardie

Stagefumer11 Do you have instructions on how to adjust the steering box? Mine has about 6 inches of play in the wheel. Gets a bit scary on windy days. Wardie

I got switches out of a R31 that were the same or close (couldn't tell from what was left of mine) as they wouldn't pass it for a blue slip unless I could open the windows from the back seats. Wardie

Thanks for the offer nixcars. As I said in the SMS I am on a fairly tight budget as I am between jobs right now so I'm going to have to put the project on hold and keep looking. I do have 2 x long boxes, 3 x flywheels, 1 x new clutch/pressure plate kit, pedal box, shifter & shifter rubber boot. I did have a re-con master cyl but have lent that to my BiL to use on his 720 ute. What I need to get is 1 x short box, matching tail shaft front section, spigot bush, slave cyl and hose. I am happy to swap my two long boxes for a working short box if anyone is interested. Wardie

Thanks for that Matty T. I measured the auto box in mine and it's the same length as the long 5 speed and that seems that it would put the shift around the same place as the auto shift which is about right. As the auto and long manual boxes are the same length I was hoping I would be able to use the auto tail shaft. Well this was my original plan. So now my plan is on hold and my next question is - has anyone successfully fitted the long box into a MR30 or do I have to start looking for a stumpy box and matching tail shaft? Wardie

Can anyone confirm what type of 5 speed manual came with the MR30. Was it the short FS5W71B or the long one? Reason I ask is that I have two long boxes at home and on the weekend noticed that according to my Nissan manual the long box is for the L20 in the MR30 and there is supposed to be a short version (tail end of housing) for the L24. I am yet to see a short box with stick shift at the wreckers. The only one I have seen is out of a 720 ute and it has column shift (RS5W71B). Thanks Wardie

Hold off on this!!! I may have given some crap info. My manual pedal box was not complete it seems. I saw one on the weekend that was complete and I was missing the pedal height adjuster bolts (brake and clutch). I have quickly checked my car and I don't seem to have the bracket for the clutch height adjuster bolt. I will check it better later this week when I can get the seat out and have a better look. Sorry Wardie

Glad to have helped someone else. Wardie