684NGR33

My s1 rb25 33- Greedy copy plenum Ls coil packs with 8.8mm leads BCPR7ES plugs gapped to .6 Id1000'sId1000's and bigger rail sard fuel reg Xf throttle body S60 master power turbo 38mm turbosmart external gate Stainless manifold 3" dumo and exhaust with high flow cat and hot dog muffler Walbro 460 E85 Shitty compression motor 115-125. Made 398.5rwhp on 20psi tunnwd by Horsepower Solutions.

Hey guys. I've had a quick look on here but cant really find something that clears this up for me. I need to pull the head off my rb20det but never done it by myself before. Im aware of everything else like the sneaky 3 bolts people usually miss and etc. Thanks in advance!

-Freddy copy plenum -id1000cc injectors on big rail -Sard fuel pressure reg -Spitfire coil packs -China replacement turbo -Adaptonic computer -Rolling automotive front mount -80mm throttle body Made 305.5rwhp (227.4kw) on 15psi Tubos shit. Will make more with a quality turbo.

.6 and spitfirre as said. And yes it ran right before the tune, im thinking he's f**ked something up in the tune and is too lazy to fix it so just making excuses. It's a China turbo, 15 psi

Hey guys, as the title states when I'm wide open throttle on full boost (4000-7500rpm )it misses, coughs and splutters and does not perform at all pretty much all of the time, 95%. And also when quick shifting between gears at high rpm like you would when racing, it cuts out for a split second. Its only been happening after its re-tune. I've taken it back and he assures me its not detonating but thinks it could be cooler piping squishing or the fuel pump..... Just after any useful input on how to solve the issue.... Mods are; Id1000cc Bigger rail Sard fuel reg Forward facing plenum 80mm throttle body Lowmount replacement stock turbo 3" exhaust 445 walbro Adaptronic ecu Rollin automotive front mount. Spitfire coil packs.

I don't have the sensor obviously.....if I did I wouldn't be asking what it is and what it does?

Hey guys. The missus has a r33 skyline n/a auto. Box was screwed so I picked up another one and chucked it in. Now the box is fine and works but its locked in top gear. Put it in second or drive etc and it takesnoff as if its locked in 3rd or something. The box I got was missing a sensor on the top left hand side at the back, pretty much above the mount, that's how far back it is. Was thinking this could be the problem? Is it a sensor that tells it what gear to be in or?

Hey guys, My girlfriend has a r34 with a n/a 25neo in it and it drives fine for about 20 minutes and then it'll start to miss on one cylinder for some reason? Sometimes it goes away, sometimes it won't. Coil packs have been changed, could it be wiring? What's some things to check? Thanks.

Only if you're kind enough to come for a drive with me? You can even call shotgun?

Its just twin stainless pipes from the diff back, the hot dog is before the diff. It sounds good up until 4000rpm then has horrible stainless Eco. And was thinking it'd be the pipes cause who ever made them was pretty dodgie, like where the Y pipe is they've slipped 3" pipe over it and left the end of the Y pipe that should have been trimmed flush on the inside of the 3" pipe there, if you know what I mean, so could be hitting that and restricting it or f**king up flow?

Hey guys, New to the forum and new to the skyline world. I bought a 33 two weeks ago. It has a full 3" exhaust with cat and hotdog muffler and originally had a cannon. I got a hold of a set of 3" stainless straight pipes and put them on mainly because i dont like the look of cannons but since have noticed a power loss top end. It just feels a lot slower, even changed the way it hits limiter. So I'll probably put the cannon back on to gain the top end performance back, but I don't really want to. Is there anything else I can run thats not a cannon or straight pipes and will do what I want? Thanks in advance.