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kaboobie

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Posts posted by kaboobie

    Daily Driving the billet engine

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

    The question is really more why do you want a billet block? They're designed for 1200+ hp builds. The liners are extremely thick and the water jacket doesn't do as much as it does in the stock block which is a closed deck that reduces coolant flow.

    You should really consider what this car is going to be used for. If it's going to be idling in traffic all day that means keep the power relatively low to reduce cooling load on the engine, keep the OEM water pump, big radiator, stock clutch fan with fan shroud, proper radiator ducting. All of those requirements point towards either OEM or N1 block. It would be cool to have some billet aluminum block tailored for say 600 whp max as a "street oriented" block but the people willing to put down 10-13k USD on a billet block usually want big power, not just removing ~30 kg from the front of the car.

    Thanks for the response. I do half track half street driving on this car. For street you can't really avoid congestions in the heart of Bangkok. As for cooling, I still have the clutch fan, an oil cooler with a small fan, HPI 3 way radiator with the biggest cfm fan out there, as well as an extra small coolant cooler with fan. The airflow has also be designed to get ride of the heat while driving. The car is cool right now. I figure I can take on a bit more heat while removing the weight off the car as there is nothing else that I can do to improve the car within the limit that I want it to be. The weight should improve the handling of the car some what but I'm not willing to sacrifice the reliability issue for it. 

    You are right that people are not willing to put down that much money for just weight reduction, as a replacement to a stock streetable block. As the stock block continue to go up in value, if these shop advertize that billet block is replaceable to the stock block it should have better cooling than the stock block and have other better design features, which when I asked they refused to do it. 

    Daily Driving the billet engine

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Let me explain a bit more of the weather condition in my country. It gets to 40+ Celsius for 1-2 months a year and I get stuck in traffic sometimes 30 minutes to one hour.  There are many cars on the road and you can't really drive to dissipate heat like in the VDO above. It's also quite humid. 

    I heard in the VDO at 2:55 that the engine runs at 83 degree. Let's say the temperature in NSW on the day of filming is around 25C, seeing they open the window it might be cooler, but if your add 10 degrees to that, with the condition coolant will be at 93 degree. For me, for a car running around with wind blowing that temperature is pretty high. I haven't considered the fact that the hotter the temperature the harder it is to dissipate heat and I haven't even added traffic and heat of other cars to the equation because when in traffic that is when it heats up very fast. 

    I guess I found my answer but to be fair it does also depends on how the ventilation of the car is set up.

    I'm not here to bash the billet block. I genuinely want one but I have to play a role of skeptic here.  

    Daily Driving the billet engine

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    8 hours ago, BK said:

    I know billet blocks are good for rigidity when making massive power, but I was asking specifically the OP why he feels he needs / wants a billet block. Does he want 2000hp or just bragging rights ? Plenty of big power RBs not using them and new RB26 blocks are pretty affordable.

    Hi there, I've been using the current engine for 5 years now. It's running fine and doesn't give me any trouble. I use it as a DD as well as tracking it 5-6 times a year. It's running E20 and is making 700hp on twin 6258 EFRs. The HKS 2.8 kit hasn't give me any problem and currently it is running fine. I feel time is approaching for a replacement block so why not go for a bit of an upgrade. While the limitation of the HP is not the block right now, it is the fuel I use, beside I don't need anymore HP, it is plenty fast, but I want the same reliability and maybe a bit more boost doesn't hurt :-).  The current RB engine are quite expensive now so I don't mind spending a bit more to get a lighter and stronger engine but if it comes with compromising the reliability or heat issue I'm not going to buy it and so far I haven't really got a straight answer from the shops so I'm asking the owner/s who had bought one if my concern is ligitimate or not. 

    Thanks

    Tobey

    Daily Driving the billet engine

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Predator1 said:

    No, I've been told several times that billet blocks are a race only block and not suitable for road use. When asking specifics, i get given the cold shoulder.

    Plus there are a few big boys running billet blocks, but information is kept hush hush, however they are quick to recommend with their sales pitches.

    Yeah I got a similar experience.  The shop have not addressed the issue and tend to ignore the issue totally by not having any evidence supporting the claim.

    There are a few cars out there that has a billet engine and DD the car but it all disappeared and never heard from again for some reason....

    • Like 1

    Daily Driving the billet engine

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hi Folks,

    I'm in the market to buy a wet block billet RB28/RB32 aluminum engine and wants to use it daily in my R34.  I have heard that the block being very dense, accumulate heat and doesn't dissipate heat very well. I hear some engine crack liners and have leaking head gaskets from heat soak. I would like to know if there is any truth to this. Coming from a hot country (Thailand) and have terrible traffic, I can't risk the issue of overheat when idling.  I would like to hear from owners that use their billet block in town daily doing normal stuff as well as any other issues that new buyer should be aware of when driving the car.

    Thanks

    Tobey

    Midnoight Purple 3

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi Guys,

    I need some help here. Can someone provide me with the paint formula for the mnp2, LV4 ?  

    I looked everywhere on the internet for it and the links above are now broken. Already bought KK760 but need the rest of the formula.

     Thanks

    [Closed] Borg Warner Efr Series Turbos

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    25 minutes ago, Full-Race Geoff said:

    excellent result kaboobie.  That powerband is great for pump gas and cats -- which cats are you using?

    Thanks Geoff.

    About the Cats, I think I might be mistaken. I am using Ganador Ti exhaust. I think it's a second muffler not a cat not sure.

    Oh yes, it also uses 272 cams, oversized valves, and 1000cc injectors.

    • Like 1

    [Closed] Borg Warner Efr Series Turbos

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I'd like to contribute and add my info to your database for the community's reference, as I read and learn a lot from here.

    This is the dyno of my BNR34 2.8L, twin EFR 6258, E20/95 pump gas, 1.7 bar and it still has cats (tuned at 30C)dyno_m150_efr6256.thumb.jpg.f587ff5f30c65BA97533-8020-4E6D-BE3D-FA7AFBC61429.thu

    It has been done for a while now and thanks to Piggas for helping me choose the turbo for it. It's always a blast driving it around town and track. :-)

    dyno_m150_efr6256.jpg

    5BA97533-8020-4E6D-BE3D-FA7AFBC61429.jpg

    • Like 2

    Anyone Using A Quaife Diff?

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    The active diff might get confused, but then again it might not. You're not messing with sensors that play a big party on determining what the rear diff does. But the general consensus is that the active diff is the biggest piece of crap ever put into a Skyline and should be replaced with a real diff before doing the front.

    Thanks man. If I were to change from active diff to a real diff, I heard that I must also changed the rear diff housing, I guess from a non-vspec. By doing this what do I do with the electronics ? would it show errors on the dash board ?

    Anyone Using A Quaife Diff?

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    Hi guys,

    I read a few threads about the quaife diff but hasn't found any feedback on its drivability on the road compared to the stock diff. It would be great if anyone can answer these questions:

    Is it noisier than the stock diff ?

    Does it lock up when you try to u turn on the street ?

    Does it make the turning radius wider ?

    Thanks

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