kaboobie

Thanks for the response. I do half track half street driving on this car. For street you can't really avoid congestions in the heart of Bangkok. As for cooling, I still have the clutch fan, an oil cooler with a small fan, HPI 3 way radiator with the biggest cfm fan out there, as well as an extra small coolant cooler with fan. The airflow has also be designed to get ride of the heat while driving. The car is cool right now. I figure I can take on a bit more heat while removing the weight off the car as there is nothing else that I can do to improve the car within the limit that I want it to be. The weight should improve the handling of the car some what but I'm not willing to sacrifice the reliability issue for it. You are right that people are not willing to put down that much money for just weight reduction, as a replacement to a stock streetable block. As the stock block continue to go up in value, if these shop advertize that billet block is replaceable to the stock block it should have better cooling than the stock block and have other better design features, which when I asked they refused to do it.

Let me explain a bit more of the weather condition in my country. It gets to 40+ Celsius for 1-2 months a year and I get stuck in traffic sometimes 30 minutes to one hour. There are many cars on the road and you can't really drive to dissipate heat like in the VDO above. It's also quite humid. I heard in the VDO at 2:55 that the engine runs at 83 degree. Let's say the temperature in NSW on the day of filming is around 25C, seeing they open the window it might be cooler, but if your add 10 degrees to that, with the condition coolant will be at 93 degree. For me, for a car running around with wind blowing that temperature is pretty high. I haven't considered the fact that the hotter the temperature the harder it is to dissipate heat and I haven't even added traffic and heat of other cars to the equation because when in traffic that is when it heats up very fast. I guess I found my answer but to be fair it does also depends on how the ventilation of the car is set up. I'm not here to bash the billet block. I genuinely want one but I have to play a role of skeptic here.

Hi there, I've been using the current engine for 5 years now. It's running fine and doesn't give me any trouble. I use it as a DD as well as tracking it 5-6 times a year. It's running E20 and is making 700hp on twin 6258 EFRs. The HKS 2.8 kit hasn't give me any problem and currently it is running fine. I feel time is approaching for a replacement block so why not go for a bit of an upgrade. While the limitation of the HP is not the block right now, it is the fuel I use, beside I don't need anymore HP, it is plenty fast, but I want the same reliability and maybe a bit more boost doesn't hurt :-). The current RB engine are quite expensive now so I don't mind spending a bit more to get a lighter and stronger engine but if it comes with compromising the reliability or heat issue I'm not going to buy it and so far I haven't really got a straight answer from the shops so I'm asking the owner/s who had bought one if my concern is ligitimate or not. Thanks Tobey

Yeah I got a similar experience. The shop have not addressed the issue and tend to ignore the issue totally by not having any evidence supporting the claim. There are a few cars out there that has a billet engine and DD the car but it all disappeared and never heard from again for some reason....

Hi Folks, I'm in the market to buy a wet block billet RB28/RB32 aluminum engine and wants to use it daily in my R34. I have heard that the block being very dense, accumulate heat and doesn't dissipate heat very well. I hear some engine crack liners and have leaking head gaskets from heat soak. I would like to know if there is any truth to this. Coming from a hot country (Thailand) and have terrible traffic, I can't risk the issue of overheat when idling. I would like to hear from owners that use their billet block in town daily doing normal stuff as well as any other issues that new buyer should be aware of when driving the car. Thanks Tobey

I'm using the Ti brushless pump on my car. It's working fine. 700hp E20.

I got the formula in case someone wants it. LV4 (6000) Midnight purple2 Top Color grams accu /grams KK760 174.7 174.7 4530S 102.2 276.9 AM5 34.1 311 AM20 25.5 336.5 AM79 13.7 350.2 XB155 210.1 560.3 XB165 385.3 945.6

LV4 Paint formula Hi Guys, Hope you can help me here. My car needs some repaint and I am looking for the paint formula for LV4/MNP2. They don't have the formula at du pont/cromax in my country. I would really appreciate the help.

I also need the formula to LV4. They also don't have the formula in my country.

Hi Guys, I need some help here. Can someone provide me with the paint formula for the mnp2, LV4 ? I looked everywhere on the internet for it and the links above are now broken. Already bought KK760 but need the rest of the formula. Thanks

Sorry I don't know. I'll ask my mechanic for you. Not sure if he will tell me or not.

Thanks Geoff. About the Cats, I think I might be mistaken. I am using Ganador Ti exhaust. I think it's a second muffler not a cat not sure. Oh yes, it also uses 272 cams, oversized valves, and 1000cc injectors.

I'd like to contribute and add my info to your database for the community's reference, as I read and learn a lot from here. This is the dyno of my BNR34 2.8L, twin EFR 6258, E20/95 pump gas, 1.7 bar and it still has cats (tuned at 30C) It has been done for a while now and thanks to Piggas for helping me choose the turbo for it. It's always a blast driving it around town and track. :-)

Do you still have the switches ?

I am just afraid that since the characteristic of the front will change, the computer will affect how the rear behave.

Thanks Paul. I don't know how the Atessa and ets well enough to know how it works together. If one is gone not sure if the other would work properly. So I have to do all the homework I can. XP

Thanks man. If I were to change from active diff to a real diff, I heard that I must also changed the rear diff housing, I guess from a non-vspec. By doing this what do I do with the electronics ? would it show errors on the dash board ?

Got my Quaife front diff a while ago. But about to install it soon. I just want to double check before I install it. If my rear is an e-diff from the V-spec would it work together as the e-diff as the car was originally designed with no front diff. Thanks

Thanks bro.

Hi guys, I read a few threads about the quaife diff but hasn't found any feedback on its drivability on the road compared to the stock diff. It would be great if anyone can answer these questions: Is it noisier than the stock diff ? Does it lock up when you try to u turn on the street ? Does it make the turning radius wider ? Thanks

Hi guys, I would like to revive this topic because I would like to get one and I have not heard many feedback from the CTG/Torqline driveshaft, about the vibration in high speed driving. Besides the more statistic the better. Thanks in advance.

Hi Geoff, For your RB kit with the 6258s is it possible to use an external wastegate on it ? and why did you go with the internal wastegate set up ? was it just for the utilizing the parts that already came with ? Thanks