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jacobzking

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Posts posted by jacobzking

  1. Any write ups on replacing the window motor?  I've never messed with them (or window regulators) before.  

    Ever since I've had the car, the driver window would roll down just fine, but most often I'd have the try a few times to get it to go up.  As soon as it started to go up, it always goes up smoothly and quietly.  Seemed like a bad switch.  But now, its stuck in the fully down position and won't come back up.  I get =12/-12V coming out of the relay/amp when pressing the switch up/down.  So the switch and amp are working.  Just a bad motor.  I've also applied 12V directly to the motor and nada.  

    Any help on replacing the motor?  Can the glass and regulator stay in, and only replace the motor?  Or not possible?  Thanks!!!

  2. Can I get yalls input on the AEM Tru Boost settings for my mostly stock GTST (rb25det)?  I'd like to run maybe 7psi on low and 10psi on high.  What settings do I need to configure the Tru Boost to get these results?  

    I was reading the manual and it gives me a headache talking about pulse wave and blah blah blah lol. 

    Also, any tips for install would be appreciated.  I'm just gonna install in my ashtray.  

    Thanks guys!

  3. This is for my 93 R33 GTST...
     
    I'll pay $100 (paypal or Zelle) if anyone here can get my GTST Active LSD working using a Midori GTR sensor. Seems like it would be doable... hoping repining or something along those lines...
     
    Kind of a repost, but with new info, wiring diagram and cash incentive. I've been trying to figure this out for half a year. A "new" G-sensor from Nissan is about $1400 and who knows if it'll even be any good.
     
    Short version... the GTR uses a 2 plug G-sensor (controls rear wheels left/right + front to rear). The GTST uses a similar sensor, but only one plug for RWD (rear left/right).
    Nissan's flow charts for trouble shooting are the same for GTR/GTST just with some additional jumpering for the GTR sensor to include the 2nd plug. I've included a side by side of the 2 sensor pinouts. I did notice that 2 wires (white/blue and blue/green) were swapped between GTR and GTST.
     
    I really want to try and get the OEM active LSD working (not interested in just going mechanical 1.5/2 way). I swapped the pins and the only re-activated the code 66 error (left/right sensor).
     
    I previously had error codes 62,65 and 66. I've tried 2 junkyard replacement OEM sensors (30 years old) and had same results with both. Same 3 error codes
    I tried a Midori digital sensor for the GTR (2 plugs compared to my 1) and that cleared up code 65 (no power from sensor) and code 66 (bad side to side sensor). But I still have code 62 (bad front to rear sensor).
     
    Maybe I could wire up the Midori GTR sensor differently to work? Just not sure how. That's where I'm hoping someone could help me.
     
    I'm 90% sure the issue is the sensor, especially considering that 3 OEM ones gave me the same error (probably old/bad capacitors), and new new Digital one resolved 2 of 3 errors. And I'm assuming the last error is just related to the extra plug not put in to use.
     
    Page WS4 has the GTR pinouts. Page WS3 had GTST (both top right corner for G Sensor).
     

    400726316_10232901046452459_8034539150761133856_n.jpg

    400030730_10232905545164924_7248645023566833145_n.jpg

  4. Sadly they do not work in a 33 GTST.  I tried the Midori hoping it would get rid of my ALSD errors (62, 65 and 66).  It DID clear my 65 no power from  sensor and 66 codes side to side sensor) but I still have an error code for 62 (front and rear g sensor).  :(  I've tried 2 other OEM ones but both were bad and they are so hard to find :(

  5. Update: after 3 "faulty" used OEM sensors, I tried one of the DoLuck aftermarket/digital for a GTR (I had to modify the connector plug) sensors and now my error 65 code is GONE! (65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit) and I'm just left with these 2...

    62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

    66 Side G sensor and circuit

     

    So it looks like maybe it was a bunch of old bad, sensors after all.  Not to track down these 2 errors codes.

  6. On 9/21/2023 at 9:14 PM, joshuaho96 said:

    To do it right means pulling apart the whole sensor and rebuilding it. It's much easier to just buy an R33 GTR digital g-sensor and only use the one plug that fits. The sensors are almost identical anyways, it looks like the bracket is pretty much the same between the R33 GTR and GTST with A-LSD. I would probably go for the Midori Seibi one because it looks to have a cleaner design and I don't really need a bunch of DIP switches to change the g-sensor response from stock.

    If you really insist on trying to fix the sensors you have you can look at this for reference: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2012/02/digital-g-sensor-for-nissan-skyline-gt.html

    You can see the pendulum mechanism I'm talking about. It's attached to the circuit board underneath with ribbon cables. To fully refurbish the ones you have you probably need to replace the springs with whatever the factory spec was, then replace the pots as well or at least clean them of any debris. I don't know if it's actually designed to make this simple, it's not unusual for repairs of this nature to be a big pain in the neck which is why the FSM just says toss the sensor and order a new one.

    I'm ASSUMING the Midori sensor will work in a GTST.. I'll give it a try and report back.

  7. 18 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

    I'm not really sure what you're saying when you said you ran through the flow chart. Pin 92 appears to be a ground. I would verify that has a good connection. Pin 27 and 29 relative to ground should be 8V as you said. For the GTST single plug if pin 27 and 29 are +8V then 26 and 28 should be the signal output. Verify that the supply voltage stays at roughly 8V with the sensor connected. Then verify that the voltage you get at pin 27 and pin 29 is also what you expect. On a flat table not moving it should be 2.5V. Then check against pin 40, 41, 42, and 43 on your A-LSD control unit. On the g-sensor those are equivalent to pin 27, 26, 28, and 29 respectively if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly that I linked in my previous post. Should be page 28 of 31 where the A-LSD/ABS control unit pinout is shown. If you can't find it see below:

    Screenshot2023-09-18at9_00_39PM.thumb.png.ab1813f676d8d858b1ad42daa77b2f4e.png

    Screenshot2023-09-18at9_00_59PM.thumb.png.d21f8630c7a7255095faa94a27bf7775.png

    If you have verified the signals are making it through the harness ok with everything connected up then yes, if you aren't getting about 2.5V from the signal pins relative to body earth you have a dead sensor. It's also not that unlikely because it is basically a glorified pendulum with some springs in there attached to a potentiometer to measure position. If someone dropped the sensor at any point from when it was built to any number of shipping depots and junkyards between the point of manufacture and you over the past 3 decades it's possible that the potentiometer breaks or the springs are permanently deformed and it'll read weird values just sitting there. The red shock sensor not reading excessive force is not proof that the sensor works. Just plain wear and tear can also break those sensors, springs have a rated lifespan after which they can snap or the spring constant just isn't accurate anymore.

    From looking at the wiring diagram I can also tell you the pinout of the 6 pin sensor connector for the g-sensor is 100% identical between the GTR and the GTST A-LSD. The only difference is that the ATTESA has two longitudinal sensors for some reason while the GTST only uses one. 

    you da man!

  8. On 8/21/2023 at 11:46 PM, joshuaho96 said:

    You need to do the following diagnostic flows to narrow down the issue:

     

    If you need a wiring diagram you can find it here under A-LSD/ABS: http://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf

     

    Is there a flow chart like this for the GTST that you know of?  Since the GTST only has one plug on the sensor, and is missing some of those pinouts on the CU.

    I ran through the flow chart and got the appropriate 8V at the 2 pins on the G sensor connector (pins 27-29).  At that point, according to Nissan, needs a new G sensor.  Ive tried 3 different sensors, but what are the chances all 3 are bad?  I've also tried checking voltage out of the sensor (pins 41 and 43) and I'm getting much less than 2.5V.

    PS: I get codes 62 (FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit).  65 G Sensor 2 Power Supply and circuit.  66 Side G sensor and Circuit.

     

  9. When I bought the car (93 R33 GTST w/ Active LSD), the active LSD light has been on the dash all the time.  

    I get codes 62 (FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit).  65 G Sensor 2 Power Supply and circuit.  66 Side G sensor and Circuit.  

    I ran through the flow chart (thank you Josh) and got the appropriate 8V at the 2 pins on the G sensor connector (pins 27-29).  At that point, according to Nissan, needs a new G sensor.  Ive tried 3 different sensors, but what are the chances all 3 are bad?  I'm hoping I can adjust voltage per the guys R32 GTRs recommendation and get em working.  I just dont know what 2 places to check voltage when adjusting the POTS.  Thanks!!!

     

     

    IMG_1445.jpg

  10. Anyone have R33 GTST schematics they can share.  I've had a few guys share schematics for the GTR, but have not come across the GTST schematics.  STILL trying to get my Active LSD to work. (93 R33 GTST).

    Specifically looking for the 6 pin connector Active LSD "Gravity Sensor" schematics (GTST only has the 6 pin connector, unlike the GTR that has a 6 AND a 4 pin)

    And then the ABS/A-LSD CU schematics.

     

    These are my error codes.  And I've tried 2 other gravity units, all with the same results:

    62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

    65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit

    66 Side G sensor and circuit

  11. 2 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

    They don't explode, the indicator just releases dye when damaged by excessive force. Probably most sellers don't know you need to pack that particular sensor like you're shipping an egg. The AWD cars have pinouts that look like this:

    image.thumb.jpeg.7462bb9897d3e869c4b178cfe1f95910.jpeg

     

    I would see if power and ground are on the same pins. If it is then more likely than not it will work, when I check the R33 wiring diagrams I see that the AWD CU uses the same pins as the RWD A-LSD ABS/A-LSD CU for the same things. It actually seems to me that you might be able to leave the other part of the harness disconnected altogether. Only issue I can foresee is potential fitment issues if the brackets are different.

    image.thumb.png.bb0cd534a89600267561d5c0c462b18b.png

     

    Lol… the one I got from JPJDM was packed like it had delicate eggs in it. Tons of bubble wrap, foam, boxed, more bubble wrap, packing peanuts and then boxed again. 
     

    I suppose I will try and plug-in one of the ones that has the red indicator on it and see if it fixes my issue. If that does not work, I may just try and order one of those DoLuck ones and see what happens with just one plug, I have tried reaching out to them, but have not gotten a response. 

  12. 59 minutes ago, Duncan said:

    Keep in mind that the indicator being red isn't a guarantee the unit is not working (and vice versa, an unbroken indicator doesn't mean a working unit). 

    It is just a g sensitive tag, the unit itself is independent and may still be fine.

    OK, thank you! It seems obvious to just plug it in and see if it makes the error light go away, but my car has been at the shop for the last month that I have not been able to drive it. So as soon as I get it back, hopefully next week, I will plug-in one of the “damaged “sensors. Thanks!!!

  13. On 5/28/2023 at 11:31 PM, GTSBoy said:

    'sif you'd fit a genuine GTR bar to a 33 GTST anyway, these days. The fact that fibreglass "GTR" bars for GTSTs exist should be sufficient to indicate how it should be done if you want it to look that way, and fit.

    I have a fiberglass GTR replica now. But I daily the car, and fiberglass breaks too easy. I don’t want to have to be super cautious on speedbumps, or pulling up to parking spots, or dips in the road. I just hate fiberglass body parts.

  14. On 5/29/2023 at 11:47 PM, funkymonkey said:

    fibreglass version, it's made to fit the smaller fenders and narrow body bumper support.

    image.png

    image.png

    https://item.rakuten.co.jp/partslandts/00100-001/

    This guy took out the reinforcement bar to do a test fit of the GTR bumper on his S2 GTS25t:
    image.png

    here's the resulting gap

    image.png

    So even S1 to S2 is different.

    Woohoo!  A helpful response lol. It’d be easy to put a spacer under the bumper to lift it up so it sits without a gap. Looks like a good fit. Thank you!!!

  15. My 93 R33 GTST came with the Active LSD (I DO want to make it work).  After all the trouble shooting I can do, I've determined that its most likely a bad G Sensor (based on the ECU codes).  Problem is, in the US I can't find any local.  I bought one from Canada on eBay, and another from JPJDM, but both arrived with the red "excessive impact" mark.  So the only 2 I've been able to get my hands on, both arrived damaged.  Both sellers swear they were in good condition prior to shipping.  And the packing was fine, so I'm thinking maybe they "explode" in transit due to air pressure in the plane?  

    In any case, Do-Luck makes a sensor replacement for the GTR, but not for the RWD GTST (only for AWD).  But, the plug on my GTST is the same as one of the ones on the GTR.  Has anyone ever tried using a Tarzan Do-Luck G Sensor on their GTST with just the one plug?  Here's the GTR vs GTST plugs for comparison... 

    Screen Shot 2023-06-13 at 11.29.34 AM.png

    IMG_9418.jpg

    s-l500.jpg

  16. 14 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

    For the 10 seconds it takes, pop the valve cover off and take a look. If they're stock, plug it back in. If they're aftermarket and not VCT friendly. Replace them and then plug it back in.

    May have been unplugged for other reasons as well (Noisy VCT cam gear!?) 

    If I take the valve cover off, what should I be looking for?  I know what cams look like lol, but all cams pretty much look the same to me.

  17. Quote

    If they are all OK, assuming there is not another g-sensor handy to swap in and check, it is probably time to buy a replacement. I believe midori make one, and probably others.

    You guys are awesome!  I wish Midori made one for the RWD A-LSD, but I think they only make it for the AWD system.  The RWD sensor only has one plug (I think 4 wires).  I'll keep you posted.  This is what mine looks like BTW.

    Screen Shot 2023-04-25 at 7.45.52 PM.png

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