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CSV Imports

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Posts posted by CSV Imports

    Pulsar GTi-R

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Thanks alot morgs, those were just my basic mods, th ones that I can afford now. Once I sell my excel (dont laugh, my folks bought it for me), the money should be good for an OS Giken gear set. I also plan to get a Power FC, sard 1000cc injectors, new nismo front diff, DBA brakes, or a brake urgrade to r33 gtr brakes some more rice, Audio and lots of other things.

    Is there anything else I need? My engineer said I wouldnt have to resport to forgies yet but it would be advisable. so I spose I better add that to the list of Mods.

    180sx or gts-t/4

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Ok,

    Mod for Mod, an sr20 will walk away from an rb20 no matter who you talk to. As for your decision, I own an r32 gts4 and am about to swap the engine for the larger and more mod happy rb25. Now depending on what power you are looking for, say 200kw You can probably just stick with the rb20 but if you want more power and a hell of alot more low down torque that you should change to an rb25. My point is go for the gts4 just for the attesa, and even if you want to drift occasionally than just rig up a switch for the attesa to be on or off. best of both worlds.

    As for the 180sx, I have previously owned one as my first car, and I have nothing but praise for the sr20, it was a fantastic engine, combined with the light weight and the stunning good looks you cant go wrong. Although my 180 never broke down on me, I think it is safe to say the sr20 is damn reliable and will easily attain your 200kws. But when you start to modify you wont be able to stop.The 180 has fantastic handling, I think it was alot better than my gts4, even with the awd. Also the brakes on the 180 were better and had better fuel consumption. (mine sat on about 11-12 most of the time during hard driving). I'm personally about to buy a second car, a pulsar gtir, which combines my love of awd with the fantastic sr20.

    As for buying a gtr, I say dont worry about it. With the power level your looking at you dont need the rb26 .Either buy a gts4 and put in an rb25, or modify a 180 to the sh*thouse. Both fantastic cars.

    Hope that helps, let me know what car you buy!! Good luck.

    Pulsar GTi-R

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    My options are to either buy a pulsar gtir and add a full whiteline handling kit, hks gtrs, FMIC, exhaust and super sequential BOV and a bit of rice. (mags). Or, have a stock standard r32 gtr.

    Now, which should i go for? in a race who do you think would win? If i had the gtir with those mods, what power and quarter times am i looking at? Thanks for your help huys

    Regards

    Chris

    CSV Imports

    Pulsar GTi-R

    in Other Nissan Imports

    Posted

    Hey guys,

    Just considering buying a GTi-R as my second car. I was wondering whether they are as unreliable as people say? I have some friends who have GTi-R's and all they've had is mechanical trouble. Also, do they drink hard? How many k's to a tank?

    Buying An R32 GTR

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    After saving up a bit of dosh I have now decided to buy a new car. Obviously what I want is an R32 GTR. Now I've heard the usuall

    "You may be able to buy one but can you afford to keep one..."

    Is this statement correct, because I will be putting most of my money into this and will have not enough money to repair if it breaks down. So to all you R32 GTR owners out there, has YOUR car cost alot to keep? Has your car broken down or have had any major repairs? :Bang: Do they chew through the fuel? :flamed: What are the good points about your GTR? :headspin: :D :newbie:

    Regards,

    Chris,

    CSV Imports

    Lateral G sensor

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    Simplest is to rotate the G-sensor module through 90°. The G-sensor is the gold coloured box located under the centre console, in the very middle of the car. Rotate it by 90° and fix it in its new position. Advantages: results in a far higher degree of front wheel drive torque split in cornering conditions; is the easiest of all modifications. Disadvantages: results in some wheelspin in straight-line acceleration at high revs; power understeer can occur; in wet conditions the car is still a little unpredictable. Summary: Gives an easier car to drive but isn't the ultimate mod.

    This Mod is inly if your serious

    With the G-sensor orientated as factory, disable the output of the lateral (cornering) G-sensor. This G-sensor input actually reduces the front wheel torque split as cornering loads increase. Cutting the wire results in a fault condition and the disabling of the four wheel drive and ABS systems. Instead, 2.5 volts needs to be constantly fed to this ECU input. This can be achieved by using a voltage divider (pot) as shown here. The pot should be carefully adjusted until 2.5 volts output occurs when it is connected up. Advantages: very large amount of front torque split in cornering; simple mod; superb in wet conditions; excellent straight-line traction. Disadvantages: excessive power understeer in dry conditions. Summary: great "wet weather over-ride" if switched in and out appropriately.

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