SAMFISHER
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Posts posted by SAMFISHER
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I've got one of these on my 33... looks trick as but I am not impressed with the design as it just sucks hot air and I don't know how to get cool air to it without putting a vent the bonnet!
but yeah can take some pics of the install if you like?
If you can post a couple of pics to see how it lines up and should look that would be great.
I am sure this will be of interest to prospective purchasers as well.
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Hello peoples,
I have purchased the above mentioned item from japan. The box looks trick but it must need some sort of harware mounting kit to bolt to factory mounts.
Does anyone have one of these on there car?
cheers
Christian
Sorry to bring an old post back fom the dead but did you manage to fit the airbox OK in the end?
(any pics)
I am having trouble fitting my ARC induction box to my ECR33.
Bolt holes dont appear to line up.
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Read the article a HPI archive edition (52 it think)
RBlack 34 with lots of mods that privide low down grunt and 650hp suited for daily driver.
Sounds very interesting indeed however no power curve was shown, HKS' variable valve timing on the car aparantly coupled with the added volume is providing this increased drivability.
Does anyone know anything about this car? and havs anyone seen a dyno sheet from this car. I am very interested in pricing similar mods to obtain this result.
sb..
For more info check out Best Motoring:Hot Version #4 RB Japanese muscle
Tsuchia tries it with and without V-cam operating.
FYI, the HKS rep when asked how much it would cost says it cost more to put together than a customer would ever pay for. 14 mil yen from memory (+ the cost of the car)
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put 205/50s on the front and 225/50s on the back.
You dont want to run 205/50's, wrong overall diameter. Need 205/55's.
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I'm not planning on aftermarket turbo for atleast a few months. I thought that the AFM and injectors would add some power just on their own. Or will it cause problems with the stock turbo?
I was mainly wanting to know if there are any smallish things (few hundred bucks) to throw on before the tune that will improve performance.
I was plannin on gettin the boost controller before the tune anyway tho. prob the blitz SBC i-colour.
Definately no point in getting injectors yet then, the only reason to upgrade the fuel pump at this stage would be if the stock one was not 100%.
SBC i-colour is pretty funky but a bit of a waste of money really.
If you have the PFC might as well get the PFC boost control kit for well under half the price of an i-colour.
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Coils/Sparkplug's issue?
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Morning all,
im pretty keen to get a new Z32 AFM and bigger injectors as well tho, now it would seem logical that if i get these after the tune it will throw the tune out a fair bit? will it be better to wait the extra few weeks/month to get the tune?? and is there anything else (smallish) that i should be buying before the tune to top up that power figure??
I currently have pod, 3" turbo back zorst, FMIC.
So you are getting an aftermarket turbo? Otherwise no point in getting Z32 AFM and injectors.
I suggest you wait till you get a boost contoller and then have it tuned with that.
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does that mean a smaller offset would mean a better distance from the brake clearance, cause right now my brakes just clear the wheel spokes.
Not necessarily,
How much room you have for the spokes is more dependant on the design of the wheel.
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You should go for either 225/50's or 205/55's.
Tires this size on the standard rims have the same overall diameter.
You can't get a 215 width tire that will be the same diameter.
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I too agree, I would sell.
Though isn't the LM the very-wide guards version, in RWD only?
You have been playing too much Gran Turismo.
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I was getting about 400-450km to a tank (about 11-12L/100km) without the powerfc tune. When stuck on the dyno the AFR went into the 9s at full throttle.
Since the tune I got about 460km to the tank (10.6L/100km)
460km to the tank at 10.6L/100km would suggest that you have only a 48.76L fuel tank.
To properly work out fuel economy you need to start with a full tank, resest the trip meter drive how ever many Km's you want then refill tank to full and compare your actual Km's travelled to the amount of fuel you needed to fill it back up.
My around town fuel consumption for my PFC tuned 25t is 15L/100km which would be 433km's on a tank (65 litres) full to empty.
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It is reasonably rare but not that different to a regualr 33 vspec.
If you really want collectible get a R32 Vspec 2 or a R34 Nur
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You should benefit from and electronic boost controller.
It will build boost sooner and hold boost better if it is set up correctly.
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They are the same specification as the R34 GTR.
Not sure about difficulty fitting them to your car.
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I have pretty much the same mods as you.
Do you have electronic boost controller? I use the PFC one.
I made 207 rwkw (hub dyno) at 0.7 bar (10 psi).
Was the hand controller used to tune? Mine was tuned using the Official Apexi Laptop software.
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You don't need an aftermarket fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.
I have HKS style dump pipe & exhaust, R34 intercooler, K&N panel filter and Power FC with boost controller kit.
Made 207 rwkw (hub dyno) at 0.7 bar (10 psi).
Total cost including tuning approx $3,400 ($NZ)
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I don't think I have the ECR33 one, I do have a GTSt and GTS25t one though... there's not much to translate in Hyper Rev mags, they're basically catalogues of the products carried by larger aftermarket manufacturers.
I got the latest Skline (R32 - V35) Hyper Rev of those guys.
Its frustrating that I can't read it all but it is still worth it for the pictures/specs etc.
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Yeah it is a nismo option grill for series 2's.
I have recently seen an R32 GTR style grill.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-44643873.htm
Look pretty sweet IMO
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Is the solenoid working? If it is it should make a distinctive clicking/ticking noise when it starts making reasonable boost.
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It should run (relatively) fine on the base map.
Your problem happened to me also. Because the loom is connected to the ECU by one bolt in the middle, the edges can lift up slightly causing the problems you describe.
I put a long cable tie around the edges of the power FC to ensure a secure connection.
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You could buy new in NZ the series 2 R34 (2000 - 2001 model) for NZ$64,990 (manual).
For an approximate cost of what the other models would have cost if sold new in Australia/NZ I would say that you could add roughly $10,000 to the cost of a same year 200sx.
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Make sure you get a good deal on them as I believe they have been superseeded by the RT615.
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do you notice an improvment?
Not really but still running standard boost, It should be of some benefit once I get the PFC & boost control kit fitted up and tuned.
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I did this recently.
You will need to take the plastic cover behind the intercooler in the wheel arch off. I haven't bothered to put it back on but up to you.
What you do need to do is detach most of the airbox so that you can loosen the hose clamps enough to pull the intercooler out from under neath.
What can be tricky is pulling the intercooler out from the factory hoses. They have been stuck together for ten years or so and require some effort.
To put the new intercooler on I found that softening up the rubber hose in hot water helped.
Overall an easy job but awkward as you dont have much room.
Removing the wheel will help.
Do Endless Sss Pads Need Bedding?
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
I have some of these for ECR33 (from Nengun) and no unwanted noise or excessive dust (yet).
Work really well from cold too. A good street pad for sure.