Giaccovitch
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Posts posted by Giaccovitch
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Hi all just wondering if anyone has experienced any issues with the npc twin plates. I drives fine but feels funny at high revs 8000+ it seems to get stuck to the floor a little when launching the car or changing gears quickly. My previous single plate npc clutch had no issues. Clutch is only 4000km old.
I also cracked my gearbox housing and lost 5th and reverse gear car is only pushing 400kw through a par straight cut gearbox. -
53 minutes ago, SXC32 said:
Yes it will there is two just inside at about knee height
Cool thanks mate, I remember a black one next to the green fuel pump relay, I’ll have a look for the other one
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17 hours ago, SXC32 said:
Disconnect the relay in the boot behind the skyline
I’ll give it a crack, will this make it rwd?
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Does anybody have a diagram or photos anywhere?
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Can any tell me where the cut wires I have shown are meant to go? Would be much appreciated thanks
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Fixed the light on the dash, forgot to put the speed sensors on lmao. Still get very hard shuddering on full lock turning as if the car has a locked diff, have tried new oil and additive. Still not sure
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Hey guys, when full locking my r32 gtr shutters like crazy as if it has a locked diff. It has fresh oil and I've also put in an additive to stop the clutches from sticking.
I'm not sure if it could be because of my other problem with my awd, which I wrote up in another post > -
What about the trims in the boot, is there an access panel for the attesa reservoir on the gtst?
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Are there any differences in interior with the r32 gtr and r32 gtst?
I'm looking at buying the carpet trims inside my 32 gtr boot wondering if they are any different?
Cheers -
On the hoist you can't stop the front wheel so I think it is working, I haven't checked the torque gauge though
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Yes mate they are both oem
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By the way I found out the main source of clunking was because my rear subframe bushes have collapsed
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Can anyone tell me where any of those looms are supposed to go? Would be much appreciated
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Problems were -
Faulty fuel pump control module (bypassed by running direct earth to pump)
Coilpacks were only getting 5v
Apexi ecu was fried
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Problem was a faulty TPS
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That last loom with the red plug comes from the awd pump
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Do these looms join up by any chance?
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It's definitely electrical, the loom to bleed is cut, there's a loom in the boot that's cut just before the fluid reservoir, also there is a grey 2 pin plug that has been cut underneath the car where the motor is. i had to bleed the system by turning the car on and off a couple of times. I will get some more photos tomorrow
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R32 Gtr Has Constant AWD
Hi guys, 4WD light is on but my car is constantly awd, I pulled out both awd fuses and it was still sending power to the front wheels, (I had the car on a hoist). I have found that the awd bleeder connector in the driver side kick panel is there but there is no plug or wires coming from the boot into it. There is also a small loom cut before the pump in the boot. I noticed when the car was on the hoist on the front right wheel was spinning the same speed as the rears but the front left was stopped. Also when I took the car around the shop it would shutter when turning and if you accelerated a little and backed off it would clunk harshly.
Any ideas? -
I also don't get a check engine light when the ignition is on, I'm not sure if that could be a problem as well?
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13 hours ago, beatle said:
Hey mate, what noid light did you use to test injector pulse?
Yeah buddy used a noid light, it lights up 3 times and then it just stops lighting up upon cranking
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16 hours ago, MrStabby said:
Fuel pump electric problems can be related to the fuel pump control module (which switches either a soft or a full earth when its working) dying, and many people bypass it and run a new earth to the pump. I did that after the second FPCM died.
Re injectors, if they're high impedance then you need to bypass the resistor pack.
Long shot try jump starting. If it turns over really well it might lull you into a false impression of how much juice the battery is pumping out.
Will have a look at the fuel pump control module, I've heard about running a new earth to the pump, I'll have a search around if I can't get it working with the control module. Also they are Denso 720cc injectors 195500-0830 not sure if they are high impedance or not, if so what's the best way to bypass the resistor pack? i'm pretty sure I don't have a resistor pack as it was taken off the car by the previous owner
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R32 Gtr Injector/Pump Issue
R32 gtr
Just rebuilt the motor and the car will crank but will not start. The first problem I found was that the fuel pump relay (Green one in boot I believe) is getting power but the 2 pin connector to the pump is not, I've tested the pump out of the car it works fine (brand new pump). I've also ran constant 12v to the pump to get it working (fuel is definitely coming out) but the car still wouldn't start. I have connected the sender hose to the line that goes to the back of the fuel rail which I think is correct.
Second issue is that the injectors have a weak pulse, inserting a noid light barely lights up 3 times and then stops lighting up after that.
Ecu is an Apexi Power FC, injectors are denso 720cc
Any help would be appreciated thanks.
Rb26 NPC twin plate clutch
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Yeah I just switched back to the single plate its holding fine so far, haven't launched the thing yet, are you running the standard gearbox still? If so how aggressive do you change into 3rd? It wasn't haven't this issue on the single plate it must be something wrong with the clutch, I did see rubbing marks on the springs of the clutch plate sending it back to npc.