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Posts posted by Jonnoo
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So i don't have my work van this week, gotta drive my r32
sunroof leaks like a waterfall, just finished duct taping it up looks ridiculous lol -
The 2 bottles above is how much came out
I used those 2 plus half a third, but i also spilt some.
No idea where a liter would have disappeared to tho
Gear changes do feel smoother
No abnormal crunches (not that there ever was) but definitely smoother...
I wont know for sure until tomorrow morning.
I think the clutch is disengaging properly, it doesn't roll when on a flat surface, next job is to bleed the clutch, never know when it was last done. -
It wasn't about cheeping out, it was more about noticeable differences between the 'common oils' before i went with the redline.
Anyway its all done, i used syntrans
easy job, hardest part was getting the filler plug off.
Drained i recon just over 1.5 ltrs
Filthy oil had a bit of sludge
No big chunks of metal on the magnet
Filled about 2.4-2.5 L
Hopefully shes all good! If not its redline time! -
you dont have to jack up the patrol to get to the sump. therefore: it is easier on patrol.
im feeling McGregor by KO in the 3rd round.
Best part about big 4bys was never having to jack it up.
Worst part was trying to jack it up -
Syntrax $30p/L
Vmx-80&vmx-m $38 p/4L
Is syntrax really worth the money extra -
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Doing my gearbox oil today...
Somehow i think its going to be harder than my old patrol -
Thanks for the reply,
I think not selecting gears when cold may be low fluid or something,
So your saying i should try the vmx-80 or syntrans first -
Hey guy another thread about gear oil
Every post i read turned into everyone saying each other is wrong with what oil to put in.
So it doesn't go into gear when cold unless i fight it
And it rarely crunches gear.
So reading the post everyone says use the following:
-Vmx-80
-Syntrans (i can only find syntrax?)
-redline shockproof (blue??)
Can i get a definitive answer please?
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Is that center rd? They scrap cars that have a flat tyre
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All good ask away.
Pops and farts and puffs black smoke on this nistune ecu.
Idles perfectly smooth though. Definitely need to take it to get tuned -
Id take the new supra over the new nsx
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Thanks mate
I'll try hold back on the questions -
f**k, do I need to spoon feed you through your whole build?
It would be nice...
But apologies, i meant to say z32 AFM (not ecu, i already have that)
I have a rb AFM currently
My bad didnt proof read -
Where is everyone from?
I'm super paranoid about mine getting stolen! I'm from dandenong though haha.
So with my nistune ecu am I supposed to be running a z32 ecu?
Ive got a standard rb20/25 afm on -
Yeaahhhhhh u diiiiddddd
But i was still curious
Whos a good nistuner in Melbourne?
Shouldn't my nistune ecu be running z32 afm -
f**k its hard trying to work out wtf is goin on with ur car
http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/466284-Help-id-this-turbo -
Wow, thanks for all that info mate
Its seems very good when driving and throw it back a gear etc
Take off not very good at all -
I hate err thang
Except my rb25
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Huh?
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Its a 300z ecu
Will get the code when in home -
Unfortunately i have no idea man..
I brought the car as stock rb25 with a highflowed turbo
Then discovered the Nistune and now turbo
If i put a stock ecu in, it throws a nock sensor code and idles extremely rough and rich
Nistune only runs 1 knock sensor and it idles and and drives very smoothly and it doesnt smell like it runs rich, yet to calculate fuel consumption
Will be getting it to a nistune tuner as soon as everything else is sorted
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With the controller wound fully out it is 14
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Just reminded me i haven't eaten today
Rb20 gearbox
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
Still a bitch when cold
Shifts are smooth when warm tho.
If i run through the gears when the car is off and then turn it on it will shift with a bit of resistance tho