Scottyd 240z
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Posts posted by Scottyd 240z
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On 1/8/2022 at 9:02 AM, MattBas1975 said:
Cheers mate. Will check to see if cable is actually in the back of the dash tonight and we'll take it from there. Appreciate your feedback a lot.
Hi Matt, I have a RP71C#2 gearbox in my car and it is the twin synchro RB20det gearbox from the r32 Skyline, my car uses a mechanical drive speedo which I recently replaced the speedo pinion drive as it disintegrated and jammed up and would not let me select 5th gear.
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On 23/7/2022 at 2:56 AM, joshuaho96 said:
Are you sure you don't have the neutral switch wired to the reverse switch? Could also be a DOA switch.
The switch has two wires, one wire from the loom is live with ignition on and I assume the other wire goes to the lights. When I hold the switch and plug the wires in and press the switch button the lights come on as this creates the circuit, same scenario if I swap the wires over. When it’s attached to the gearbox and I go through the gears the lights come on with every gear and off with neutral, it’s like the selector is activating it in all gears.
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Yeah I’ve swapped wires, still the same.
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Hi I just replaced my faulty reverse switch with a new OEM switch and now the reverse lights come on in all gears and go off in neutral. WTF. RB20det box in a Datsun 240Z . Any thoughts ?
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Wanted RB25 series 2 coils and coil harness, OEM or aftermarket not concerned as long as they are in good working condition. Will travel between Sydney to Coffs Harbour for pickup or pay for postage.
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Problem solved.
Had the gearbox pulled apart, found that the Speedo drive pinion gear has disintegrated and a piece of it has stopped the selection of 5th gear.
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Thanks BK. 👍
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RB 20 DET
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Hi,
I recently installed my rebuilt N/A 30/25 and took it for its first run and it won’t select 5th gear, won’t let me push it in far enough to engage the gear, if I push and Hold it then let the clutch out it grinds as soon as I take the pressure of its like neutral, was working fine before, any ideas of why this could be happening. Thanks Scott.
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Yes it is the standard throttle body, I was considering getting a Nissan Q45 as I’m not sure about the 80mm eBay ones.
At this stage it would be easier to get a larger tb and a retune and look into the itbs later.
I do like the look of the Plazmaman ffp and being able to keep the long runners for the torque
Thanks for your input.
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Hey Mr Lith, Thanks for the feedback.
I recently bought a cheap second hand fabricated ff Plenum with standard bottom half manifold the plan was to fit the plenum for now to see how it responds with the shorter intake pipe and later use the bottom half to modify and fit Rb26 itbs.
The GReddy plenum is also an option and I will do some research.
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On 21/11/2018 at 7:44 PM, Scottyd 240z said:
My old Rb30DE
VVT ported head
9.5:1 forged pistons
Tomei Poncams
Kalmaker Engine Management
Maffless tune, Pod filter
Standard Headers with big free flowing exhaust
130 rwkw
Oil pump failed so just did a rebuild with extras, off for a retune with dyno results in a few weeks.....
So I finished the rebuild in December, which included,
Spool 3.2lt crank
RB26 Ross forged pistons 86.5mm mild down to produce 10.9 - 1 comp.
Standard rods
New water pump, oil pump, timing belt etc.
Arp bolts through out
Ported 25de Head with 256 Tomei pon cams
2.5 inch exhaust with Factory exhaust manifold and inlet
So it made 135kw and 349nm, yes I was disappointed with the numbers but it drove better with the extra torque and figured it had plenty more in it.
Fast forward 6 months and I had some extractors fabricated and new exhaust system which included 6 into 2 extractors twin pipes to the diff into a 3 inch
Retuned it made 161kw and 403nm yes much happier now and still has more in it.
Below dyno pic shows red line is new exhaust and blue old
Yes I know I could have turboed it and got way more power and cheaper, but that’s not what my Zed is about.
So the next thing to do is the inlet side,
option 1 rb26 throttle bodies with long trumpets would give it the wow factor and a great sound.
optoin 2 ffp with the biggest throttle body I can find.
Plazmaman top half would be good so I can keep the standard bottom half for the torque.
Any ideas or different options would be appreciated.
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My old Rb30DE
VVT ported head
9.5:1 forged pistons
Tomei Poncams
Kalmaker Engine Management
Maffless tune, Pod filter
Standard Headers with big free flowing exhaust
130 rwkw
Oil pump failed so just did a rebuild with extras, off for a retune with dyno results in a few weeks.....
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Thanks mate.
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I recently replaced the Master cylinder, as for movement at the slave piston I’m not sure but will jack it up and check tomorrow. Roughly what is an ecceptable amount of movement.
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Hi, I have a 240z with a RB30DE and RB20DET gearbox, I believe my clutch is going ( very little peddle, hard to get into first gear and reverse at idle, selects other gears while driving ok with correct revs ) Ive checked clutch fluid, wound the clutch adjuster out with a small improvement but now I need a pro to inspect. Looking for RB experienced or a good clutch mechanic to check and replace if needed between Newcastle to Coffs Harbour.
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On 29/12/2017 at 11:30 AM, Dale FZ1 said:
A decent L series with LD 3.1 stroker crank and LOTS of attention to detail with all the right bits to achieve airflow might struggle to do better than 210rwhp (say 165rwkW). There's a fairly serious spend required to get there, and a lot of revs that sacrifices low rpm torque.
One of those IMO is a spiritual father to a 30DE donk.
I think a 30DE build as you've described is pretty good if it made 130rwkW while retaining a dirty old cast manifold. I'd guess it did its best before 6000rpm too.
If you wanted to play up around the 8000rpm mark there's a fair bit of engineering magic required: complete inlet tract, porting, cam profile and timing, complete exhaust tract, and I'd say a proper crank trigger kit to avoid timing scatter. Notice that's all airflow related. You'd still want pistons/rods/fasteners/proper valve springs, retainers, light buckets/light flywheel and balance the lot. And a properly thought out oiling system.
N/A horsepower doesn't come cheap. But it can be very effective when done right. Look at the BMW M3 engines, particularly thinking the 3.0 and 3.2 litre I6.
Yes they are expensive, I know a guy with a stroked L-series in his 240Z producing 220rwhp that cost $25k to build.
My 30DE peak power was at 5800rpm, and I will be replacing my dirty old cast manifold with some extractors and new exhaust soon.
Will I need a re-tune for extractors and exhaust ?
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I recently got 130rwkw from a n/a RB25/30 with Tomei cams, pod filter, good exhaust no extractors, 10.5:1 comp. You could spend approx 3k on head and cams and only really get another 20kw. I’m looking for a Supercharger
Na Power Results - All N/a Engines
in Naturally Aspirated Performance
Posted · Edited by Scottyd 240z
Ok. 6 months ago I put it on the Dyno for a check up and then add some new coils and make a few changes. It made about 150kw and 350nm, I did say earlier it felt quicker, sounded and looked better with he ITBs, well 2 out of 3 ain’t bad.
So I made the decision to go back to the factory intake.
Who would have thought some Highly paid and educated Japanese engineers would know more than some old Aussie rev head.
Back to the dyno after the intake change And, 165kw, 405nm yeah more kw but that extra 50 odd nm down low is the game changer, it’s so much smoother and better to drive.
So as most of the experienced SAU folk will know the factory intake is hard to beat unless your making huge power.