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About drifter17a

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  1. all, one recent drift day, my r34 oil temp was getting to around 120 degree and tuner had set it so it was limiting rev to 5.7 k to limit engine damage i had a lot of first gear and second gear on doughnats on high rpm and lost around 1 litre of oil car oil temp normally sits at 80 -90 degree in city as i have a 19 row oil cooler but even with oil cooler it was getting very hot water temp was normal around 95 degree ( normally sits on 75 due to up rated moshimoto radiator) is that normal for drift car to get extremely hot and loosing too much oil ?
  2. if I weld it, can I later swap it with kazz? I can only see kazz in the UK. I suppose the kazz kit replaces the internal so even if I weld, I could just remove it ? http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/drivetrain/drivetrain/diff/kaaz-lsd-8812.html
  3. i quite like option 1 . my car is r34 gtt 98. don't want to buy the entire rear end from gtr as that will be expensive and too much work. have seen following as well which i suppose involves removing my internal and installing this https://www.driftworks.com/kaaz-lsd-differential-for-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34.html
  4. All was out on drift day and car was shit it actted like open diff and having read many posts everyone says it is lsd however they wear and either need ri shimming or change oil some said it is open in first and lsd kicks in, in second gear which again mine was spinning on one side throughout so what would you do? don’t want to weld it as it is a daily car secondly hicas has not being removed so it still has hicas but fuse pulled could hicas even though off be causing it to work as open diff?
  5. I know my intercooler is blitz so i would have hoped it is well known can’t get hold of my tuner to confirm how car has been setup but very strange as at times it boosts to 17.2 psi and at times 15 Almost always boosts to 17 on cold but as soon as warm it is hit and miss so unsure of what it is i assumed he is using air intake temp to control boost so using water injection to cool the temp anyway engine runs better with cooler temp
  6. Hi guys, has anyone had return body oil of their turbo cracked or having hair line crack? i narrowed my oil leak to that and changed gasket and tightened again but it is still leaking so making me think it is a hairline crack on either pipe or turbo looks like this https://images.app.goo.gl/XPiTLT73APtUsVNG7
  7. What is ic? Intercooler? mine is on intake manifold
  8. yes aem https://h-tune.co.uk/aem-v2-1-gallon-water-methanol-injection-kit-with-internal-map-sensor/?currency=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxZrVh53X4QIVipTtCh0xJgHLEAQYASABEgIk-fD_BwE
  9. It is whatever they sent with pack which is 6mm on the 1/4" No issues at pump or filter just the bloody nozzle so me thinking it is vibrating and need to allow a bit more of loose pipe
  10. changed to greddy and i was very happy as boost built to 17 psi but that was short lived as it soon dropped to 15.4 psi again as soon as car was hot. need to speak to tuner i spoke he is using air temp to adjust fuel and boost so don't have too much boost when hot
  11. my bloody water pipe keeps popping out of the nozzle. I have made sure the head is round and it is firmly pushed into the pneumatic head. Could it be cable needs to have more loose section as vibration could be pulling it out ?
  12. Actually the car runs really good and link ecu is mapped so when temp is high then boost is dropped when temp is around 25 degree the boost goes to maximum of 15.5 psi now temp is around 16 degree and boost at 17 psi. Water only Aem says the injector has to be above the tank so gravity won’t pull that is my difficulty now as i want the injection to be right after intercooler so temp is dropped by the time it is at air temp sensor but that is presenting a problem as it is lower than the tank so testing this gravity pulls water even when off this is when the pipe is off the injector and hanging but as soon as it is inserted , it does not seem to leak. I have filled the tank to the lip and not a single drop when plugged in i can only assume because there is a nozzle and it is small, it is cancelling the gravity or water can’t flow same as when it is unplugged my question is , is there a valve or something that opens under pressure so i can insert it meaning gravity can’t pull water and once the pump injects that is only when it opens? here is a pic of the nozzle https://h-tune.co.uk/aem-v2-water-methanol-nozzle-and-jet-kit/?currency=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlrCiwKrL4QIVLrXtCh3X_QPuEAQYAiABEgJmS_D_BwE am i correct thinking it is check valve?
  13. can't as haven't got anything to block it off in addition to potentially damaging turbo due to pressure!
  14. will do , do you reckon my symptons sounds like a bov leak ?
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