Lozzzah
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Posts posted by Lozzzah
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Sorry just trying to understand this a bit better. The duty cycle remains the same (1230Hz) and the only thing that changes is the voltage which is across the Y axes? Max voltage being 6V and min being 0?
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Got a new RB25DE S2 from an R33 to put into a R32 which came with a RB25 S0 engine.
- What are the differences in the looms
- What connectors do I need to swap around
- WIll I need any other computer or whatever to get VCT or other things running
- Will I need a R33 front end body loom with fuse box to do this?
I'm so lost and need help, I have a whole bunch of loose plugs on the ECU side of the loom which I don't know what to do with and I'm worried I may miss solenoids etc if I start changing connectors.
I also have a second plug with 6 pins extra on the fuse side of the engine loom which I don't know what to do with either.
Are there any diagrams or anything that can help me sort out what goes where?
Cheers
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Another thing is even when I turn off the whole climate control I’m still getting hot air blown around but I can still change where it gets blown to so I’m guessing it’s doesnt have anything to do with the actuators. What do you think could be the course for that too? Here are a couple photos of under my dash too.
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I’ve still got my heating core I’m just missing my defuser and pump
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38 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
There's a small slotted vent in the dash. The image you show is for R32. The vent is in the lower right of the radio/air-con surround on those. The temp sensor is in a plastic fitting behind that, connected to a hose that goes back to that inlet on the A/C. You can see it in the top right corner of your first image. 27054M. 27621E. The wiring loom to the sensor is not shown.
So the thermostat goes in the ends of the pipe which is in the lower left side of my photo? And what do you mean by the vent is in the lower right of the radio/air-con? The last owners took the ac pump out of the car so I don’t know what exactly I am missing ? what would I need if I were to reinstall the whole ac set up back into the car?
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Found these images but I still don’t really know where it’s meant to be routed
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Anyone know what’s meant to happen with this pipe. I know that the connector for the rear passenger foot wells is missing but I don’t know what’s up with this pipe and where it goes. My climate control has been blowing hot air since I got the car, so is it where the climate control thermometer goes?
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55 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Depends on what you swap. Alternator wiring and other connections to body side looms will likely have differences. All the mechanical connections, mounted, etc, are same same I think.
So even if I got the engine loom with it it wouldn’t be as easy as swapping the engine looms around and chucking the new engine in? What if I used the old alternator from my series 0?
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Hi all,
I’m planning on chucking an rb25de series 2 package in my 1992 gts r32. It comes with loom ecu etc but I was wondering if I would still need to change anything around to accomodate for the different series engine. I’m currently running... well was running an rb25de series 0.
Cheers ?
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10 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:
3. And smoking's bad mkay
It’s for my Dominos Sign haha. Gonna diliver some pizzas in style with a r32 ?
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Uhhhh any explanation for why my cigarette lighter plug is all the way in the back of my 4 door r32??? ?
And any idea on how to get it to the front of the car where it actually belongs? ?
Cheers
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Sweet as thanks for the advice.
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3 hours ago, tridentt150v said:
I'd just hand rub it with some emery, clean it up, get rid of the loose stuff, then use a good quality rust paint like galmet and top coat with a normal paint. I'd avoid Killrust, cos it tends to flake off over time, takes a few years, but always seems to do it, which is unfortunate.
What would be the best way to tackle the rust on the steering colum that’s hard to get to? Should I take it apart?
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13 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
That's just surface rust and would be super easy to sort out.
What would be the easiest way to sort it out? Would I need to take the whole bar out?
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So my engine blew up, so for the time being I got a rolling body ?. So while I have the chance I want to do some rust and interior repairs...
Is it worth remvoving all the rust from the big bar that’s behind the dash and steering column and then re-spraying it with new silver zink spray or am I going into a rabbit hole which is going to be difficult to come out of?
If it is worth it and I’m going to do it, does anyone have any advice for me?
Cheers in advance
My Power Steerings Gone After Installing Hicas Lock Bar
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted · Edited by Lozzzah
Alright thanks. I’m just trying to remove the heavy steering for now till I have enough to get a non hicas rack. I’ve been told I could run a step down transformer to it but I don’t really want to burn out the solenoid.
I have a little bit of electrical knowlage so I understand roughly what is happening. I just want to make sure I’m doing the right thing. I’ve just heard so many different things that I’m starting to get slightly confused now haha.
Cheers for the help though guys!