KiwiBoat
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Posts posted by KiwiBoat
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40 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
That was about Soarers/SC400s.
I quoted the wrong thing but it still stands haha
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3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
When they first came into the country - everyone said it. But then they got tired and tatty and the pain faded and no-one says it now. They look a bit like an overinflated Hyundai Excel, sadly.
You are really quite passionate about your dislike of the 33, I'm impressed. For me the smooth lines with the single crease down the side are very muscular, almost organic. The tailights are signature skyline and I massively prefer the equal size to the cockeyed look of the 34+.
I think the seats look very plain on the inside, but they are actually pretty functional at holding you in. The dash is nice, has the info needed with nothing unnecessary, pure japanese 90s perfection to me.
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GTS/GTST sedan and coupe are all the same unit.
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11 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:
I disagree with your disagree. It might live 10 years in might live 10 minutes, 20 box behind a 25 is a complete lucky dip.
Thats kind of the story with any used gearbox though, especially 20+ years old. If its in ok condition and you have some mechanical sympathy its not like they are made of glass.
On another note, Ive seen 25det boxes on here for $1000-1500 which is crazy, you are out about $2500-3000 in NZ for one.
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Fuel injector fuse? Have you checked the coils have power on them?
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Wow didn't realise how much cheaper R34 were in aus, although its not quite that bad, you can pick up a coupe gtt here for 18-19k if you hunt around.
3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:Will need a gearbox. The NA box will tap out after a year at the most. Just not strong enough for the torque load.
I disagree with that, I had factory manual R33 20e that had been swapped to rb25det and the gearbox was fine after around 10 years on the factory turbo. Plenty of people drift with the 20e/20det style gearbox with 300+kw and get decent life out of the trans.
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4 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
What is a j pipe?
The alloy 'J' shaped pipe that goes to the throttle body across the valve covers.
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Exhaust? Whats happening with your gearbox? Even if its factory manual you'll probably want a clutch. The brakes might need some attention too.
I'm not too familiar with NEO but I believe they have a boost sensor that goes to the ecu, and of course you need the AFM.
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Yep I am @Tyler Elms, in the Waikato. I captain an R33 GTS25T on the daily, the recent rain has been fun ?
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I think theres quite a few kiwis on here, I'm another one
In a similar position to you, been reading the forum for a year or so and just jumping on it now!
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2 hours ago, SeanR32GtSt said:
Sounds fussy. I got a mate that lives bout 10km from me with access to a lift. Our game plan is to match the current coils with the new ones. Set the dampers to middle point of soft and hard. Lower the car off the lift and check the height. Then drive for a minute to check tyre rub. If not equivalent to what the car ride height was before we will lower it some more and repeat the same process.
When you are checking the height after an adjustment make sure you head around the block at least, the height can change by quite a bit, even 10-15mm or so after a short drive just from everything getting settled. Good luck!
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Getting the heights is actually pretty fussy. When I got my BC's the body length was adjusted pretty close to right to allow the maximum amount of suspension travel without the tyre contacting body anywhere. So you should be able to just install them as is and they will be decent. But if you want to go lower that's when you have to make some careful adjustments, then drive the car to let the springs settle a little and adjust from there. Took me ages to get all 4 corners even and at the height I wanted. Then I had to add spacers on the rear shocks to limit the shock travel while still retaining captive springs.
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1 hour ago, SeanR32GtSt said:
That looks good. Sits about as low as mine. My BBS wheels are 17” so it gives the more low illusion I think.
Nice, yours is looking good too. Yeah its easier to get the car lower to the ground on 17"s, Im running 235/40r18 so its quite a large tyre.
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39 minutes ago, SeanR32GtSt said:
How low does your car sit?
As low as I could get it without the guards resting on the front wheels when you turn them. A little lower than in that pic as it has settled since then. I had to modify the front inner guards, tuck the wiring loom up higher, roll all 4 guards and fit extra bump stops to the rear to stop the wheels hitting the body under full bump.
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I recently installed a set of 8/6kg BC Golds in my 33 and I'm happy with them. Good quality for the price, when set up right they handle really nicely as well as retain a decent level of ride quality, albeit pretty firm its not crashy. I daily drive 120km each day on bumpy secondary roads. MCA would have been nice but would have cost around 2x as much to get here in NZ.
In a similar position to you, been reading the forum for a year or so and just jumping on it now!
what is daily driving like these days?
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
Man you guys get it rough in Aus, over here in NZ I drive a very low obviously modified r33 with wheels, adjustables, exhaust (with decat) intake, bov delete, front mount, tints etc and haven't been pulled over in the 18 months I've been driving it. Before that drove a lowered modified Prelude for 6 years and was pulled over once for a random stop...
Mine is the equivalent of engineered so is road legal, and every older car gets checked at 6 monthly roadworthy checks which is the only time I ever have a problem with authority if I have mods they don't like haha. But if I do, the inspection is pretty straightforward to get them legal.
You guys need some better legal representation! Defend your rights!