thenixtone
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Posts posted by thenixtone
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Does anyone know where to get one or what the heck it's called?
Can't seem to find anything lmao
Cheers
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As you can see by my exterior B pillar garnish cover thingy, she's a bit old.
Seems the cover is quite expensive (to replace). Does anyone have any tips to bring it back to life?
I was thinking just masking off and painting it black again with a nice clear, to make it glossy.
(and yes, ordered a new window seal as well)
Keen to hear your suggestions!
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Yes, mobile mod plate that can do seats.
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On 03/03/2020 at 12:20 PM, GTSBoy said:
Yes....but.....
Whilst the seats may claim "ADR Approved".....
The rails say "Off Road Use only".
That's because the seats don't really need ADR approval and the rails do. And that goes to show you what sort of bullshit people can spin you into thinking that you're buying road legal stuff, when you're not.
None of these seat rails are "ADR Approved". Not these. Not the Bride ones. Not the JJR ones. Nothing. As best I can tell, the only way to get aftermarket seats legally installed is to get an engineer's report on the mounting system. I'd assume that if you went to a proper motor trimmer who sells Recaros etc, that they would likely be able to generate such a report, because they actually do the install work and I'm sure that they have to be able to cover their arses legally. Probably not for free though. But face it, if you're buying thousands of dollars of Recaros for your Landcruiser, a couple hundred extra bucks isn't a big issue. But for cheapskate R33 owners buying seats that are only $200 each (!!), it's a roadblock. Right?
Do you have a source on this? I don't think that's right. I've scoured the gov websites to find info, and as far as I can tell a simple mod plate will cover a seat replacement (in QLD).
I'm still trying to learn more about this before I commit to anything, so I'd like to know exactly what I can/can't and (need) to do.
Cheers
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Auto elecs said the alarm system (that was meant to be disabled) was still drawing 0.2 amps with the car off. Lmao
New battery fixed the grounding issue with the rough idle. Lets hope their fix to the alarm wiring stops it from draining.
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54 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Well.....look for the parasitic drain. Start at the battery. Put the multimeter on a current setting in between a terminal and the loom. If you find (significant) current flowing, then proceed to do the same at each fuse.
But I'd be willing to bet that you're alternator is not working correctly, based on what you say about what happens when you connect it to a car that has a working alternator.
Yeah see that's the weird thing, it's supplying enough voltage to the battery (14v), but I agree I think it is the alternator
And if only I had a charged battery so I could check the drain with the car off lol
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Hi guys,
So before I take my lovely car to the auto electricians, I'd like to try and figure it out as I know they can be quite pricey.
Here's the story...
With a brand new battery, the car will last a month if I drive it every 3~ days or so. After the 3-4 weeks, the battery will be flat. This means I have to jump start it after said time. (If I jump start the car and drive for 30mins, there is not enough charge for a 2nd or sometimes 3rd start)
Boot light does not stay on, the car used to have an alarm system which has since been removed by the previous owner (could be the issue). Radio is ancient and a bit f**ky (could also be the issue, clarion head unit).
With me trusty multimeter and voltmeter, the alternator is definitely charging the battery at a nice 13.99v whilst running, however when I flick the headlights on it drops voltage from 14~ to 10~ then back up again (makes the car stutter a tiny bit).
Here's the f**ky part.
When the jumper leaders are attached to the good car, my skyline runs beautifully. When I remove the cables, or start it with a good battery, the car splutters a little bit and runs like ass, just idles very rough and up and downy (when driving its fine). Thus I believe this to be a bad earth somewhere, thus probably a parasitic drain etc?
From my research and limited electrical knowledge it seems I am SOL and the auto elec is the only option... What do you guys think, is this common?
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Hi everyone, I'm looking at some new custom seats for my R34 GTT.
I spoke with Autotechnica and they said their seat rails will not fit, waiting on a response from Velo.
I don't really care on brand, I want something ADR approved though, I've heard a few whispers about needing ADR approved seat rails, is this a myth or is it true? (specifically for QLD, nothing on TMR website is vague)
Anyone have a combination of seats and rules that is legal / will fit without much f**kery? Cheers! e.g some weird ebay universal seat rail that would fit autotecnica seats
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Hey everyone,
Going from atmo bov to recirc and it seems the last owner removed the recirc pipe. Where does the hose plumb into? Seems the entire hose is gone so I cannot trace it
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2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:
Anyway good work, acting dumb can help with cops, good work staying committed.
I don't have any stock parts as the car came like this, so rather than waste money on stock parts that aren't good enough, I'd want to get the right thing. 9k posts and shitting on people with less experience, gotta love the community, not the first time you've been a tosswank on here though is it
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I'm making like 19psi, arent the stock ones rated to 8psi or something??
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Title, need ASAP.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
So I was defected tonight lol, for my 50/50 blow off valve and carbon fiber bonnet.
How easy is it to fix the bov problem / what would i need? I have no idea..
Cheers..
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On 20/07/2019 at 4:28 PM, WR33KD said:
Is your car push or pull type?GTT's are pull, clutch comes in pull as well which is good
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1 hour ago, BK said:
All multiplate clutches have a changeable centre hub by design, so thats not anything special. Maybe your R3C seems a bit nicer to drive in a rwd car, because any metallic triple plate I've had in a GTR has a hair trigger and not really slippable, definitely nowhere near a standard or full face clutch plate type. I've had ORC (Ogura), Xtreme (ACS), Exedy and OS Giken all in triples and all basically felt like the same clutch.
OP, The Nismo twin, NPC twin or even the OS giken TS2B will probably be a nicer clutch to drive for you and handle your power for quite sometime. $1500 or less though is going to limit you to buying a single plate though, as I think you'll need to stretch a bit more to at least go a twin or triple if you can afford it.
Awesome, thanks for the info. Think I'm going to spend the money and get the coppermix.
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2 minutes ago, WR33KD said:
Mines mint she feels like a standard clutch, done plenty of hard take offs and still feels great. I’m over 400kw and rwd and it’s the bees knees and it has a changeable centre not like others
What you got?
1 hour ago, BK said:In a rwd application under 400kw yes, so fine for the GTT in this application, but not in a GTR launching at 7000rpm +. I killed a brand new one in one drag weekend, completely warping the metallic floating discs to the point the clutch wouldn't disengage.
Probably not relevant in this situation, but just pointing out that they are not the "be all to end all" of clutches at all. They also drive like shit on the street, very hair trigger engagement.
Jesus..
Is the difference between button and cushion button that big of a deal for street driving?
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Thanks everyone for your feedback, my budget is to hopefully spend less than 1.5k for a good one. It will be daily'd with some light abuse, next tune I'm getting will hopefully be around 370kw~
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6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
On that basis, we could trot out the passive aggressive claim that no-one has ever asked that question on this forum before and that it would be impossible to search for previous/recent discussion.
You mean like the original passive aggressive comment I was responding to?
And of course I searched. Its hard to find information with exact power figures. How do you think I came across the NPC clutch that people on here recommend..?
Every thread that COULD be answered elsewhere is useless apparently.
Besides 'this one fits' I was after actual experiences and feedback.
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Ah right, my bad, I thought this was a forum.. for discussions. A clutch place isn't going to tell me if their clutch is shit, are they?
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Hey everyone,
Need a new clutch for more power / current one is worn, I have the GTT (RB25DET Neo) was wondering if anyone has any tips on what to look for?
Will any aftermarket single plate do? Currently looking at https://www.gameonmotorsports.com.au/npc-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-pull-type-clutch-r34-gt~44571
Looking to make about 375kw~
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Can't seem to find any online that's relatively close, anyone have this part? The one for the back of the center console?
Cheers
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Yeah link works now, was 400ing before.
I switched the AFM out but it ran like butthole, needs a retune someone said, but no one tuned nistunes anywhere near me, so big F
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8 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
You can install it yourself with a little effort:
Link is dead, and the official Nissan mechanic wasn't sure either, he also said 'a retune will probably fix the issue' but I don't think that's true
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When I got the car looked at by a mechanic (it had a check engine light) they said the light was from the throttle actuator or o2 sensor. I'm guessing this is related, but what does that mean / what would be the fix? Sheesh
The car also idles at 1100 rpm
Side mirror seal
in Car Detailing & Paint Care
Posted
Oh interesting. I actually have a brand new copy of that door seal. Might be worth putting it on.
Cheers for that lmao, no wonder I couldn't find it (thought it was small)