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Jjtxaz24 last won the day on November 29 2019

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About Jjtxaz24

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  1. I made some calls and after a couple of days of trying to find someone local to do it for me I had no luck. I ended up using a dremel to flatten the previous progress I did (it was drilling kind offset), and ended up ordering some reverse drill bits, then used the ez out previously and bolt came right out. I took my other bolt, and it screwed right in and was able to torque it down. Heres a pic of the bolt that's snapped with a regular one: I tried to line them up as best as possible. The threads seem good on the head so I dont think I need the helicoil kit (I'm still waiting on bolts and I did order the helicoil kit just in case). The manual says to use 6.7-8.7 ft lbs of torque and I think the first time I did it around 8 ft lbs. I'm gonna be doing it around 7lbs maybe 7.5lbs to allow for that +/- 4% variable. What you guys think? I'll be going back to my OEM cams.
  2. I looked online in my area for a mobile thread repair guy cuz that was a great idea and I didn't find one. I'll make a call to a friend and maybe he can help me out. If it goes south, I think this kit will work. It's an M6 x 1.0 bolt. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/296852226159252192?q=m6+helicoil+kit&client=ms-android-verizon&biw=412&bih=718&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&sxsrf=ALeKk01qXpOSKB90LjEsZI0_MzuiZwJFwg:1589439191304&prds=epd:16865377650706785995,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1
  3. So as you guys know nothing's ever easy on this f**king car, started to try and take out the broken bolt and having no luck. I tried to center it with a punch as best as I could and drilled into it to use an EZ out and not going well. Ended up off center and I got frustrated so I stopped. In the event I end up f**king it up. Do you guys know the the thread pitch these bolts have. I think it's an M6 but unsure what pitch it has. Pre planning the next step. Have you all used a helicoil?
  4. I think slapping in the stock cams will get her up and running which makes me happy. My next question is what's the easiest way to get my cams off without taking all the front belts and accessories off. I read through a thread that said to ziptie the belt and cam gears up and slide the old cam out and new ones in. I'm assuming I'd have to loosen the timing belt tensioner and to reach that I have to take off the lower cover and pull off the balancer.
  5. Then the bolts were just old? Either way damage is done. Trying to prevent it from happening again. So new OEM bolts and use a different torque wrench. I guess.
  6. I saw the tomei ones, but I didnt wanna spend that much on them and I feel OEM should be good enough. After talking to some friends and stressing over this I feel that one bolt may have been over torqued. We have a shop here in the USA and its know for having cheap "affordable" tools. I used a torque wrench I got from there. That is the only thing I can think of as to why that one bolt would snap near the head. I'm gonna order another torque wrench only this one I'm looking for is gonna be in inch lbs not foot lbs and hopefully have a better accuracy. The current one I had was a +/- 4% tolerance on the accuracy.
  7. https://www.ramsheadservice.com.au/product/nissan-rb26-genuine-cam-cap-bolts-kit-nis001/ Is this a legit company out there in Australia? They seem to have OEM bolts for a good price, but it seems to good to be true sorta speak.
  8. I used as thin,paper clip and checked it I could rod the oil squirter and it slid in and out. How deep are they supposed to be? It did go in 25.5mm. I guess I can take off another cap end and check that one.
  9. I will put the stock cams in when I extract that broken bolt out. I promise they were not over torqued. I triple checked em and went in torque sequence. I know for a fact they were at the torque spec they were supposed to be. Let me take a picture of that for you.
  10. Started doing a leak down test and decided what the hell, let me take off the valve covers. Here's what I found: A bolt snapped off: And both together: So I still have my stock cams. I'm gonna take the bolt out and replace it. My end cap still seems good. Then toss the stock cams back in till I can replace them with better cams or just leave em stock. Any idea what the bolt PN is?
  11. Alright, I'll give it a try tomorrow.
  12. I can try that. It takes me like 5 minutes to take off all coils, wiring harness and plugs. I'll need to take the fan off and out the way to have access to the crank bolt and I can turn it over by hand and see if that works. I'm assuming (brains not working anymore) I need to jack up the car on all 4 corners? Havent done that yet.
  13. Guess the only way to figure out is to pull the engine out and tear it down. Not something I wanted to do but most of all troubleshooting has been exhausted on my end and it keeps pointing to pulling the engine.
  14. That is a very good question. I got a little close with the camera trying to gauge the distance I was at. Not enough or hard enough to remove any carbon or anything though. So if the plugs have just been fouled, not missing any pieces. This problem is driving me insane. I still gotta rule out the boost/vacuum/pressure leak. I really dont wanna pull the intake and turbos off to get the head off. I'm moving in a few months so if it's an extensive fix it's just gonna sit on the back burner till I relocate and get settled in the new house.
  15. Ok so I'll have to get a hold of a compressor and try to do that boost leak test.
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