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Jjtxaz24

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Jjtxaz24 last won the day on November 29 2019

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About Jjtxaz24

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  1. I see your point. The maintenance I'm doing is to upgrade to new tech and also allow me to drive it, it is not a daily driver but I enjoy using it. Being the only source of income makes that a bit difficult. Not to worry though, it makes sense on upgrading the coils and getting rid of the ignitor. It was a route I had considered and was looking more into I just wasnt there financially yet. As I was rebuilding the turbos I cleaned out the coolant and oil lines, replaced all the gaskets both cooper ones and for the piping as well as cleaned out and in some instances replaced some banjo bolts cuz they were just old and had tons of build up. My coolant temps stay much better now as before I was pretty high, higher than normal. Point being, as far as I know the fuel system is decades old, OEM and probably needs a refresh. I could rerun new fuel lines, replace the pump, and clean out the injectors and replace the pigtails as well. I was honestly thinking the cutting out was a fuel issue. Maybe clogged injectors or a few pigtails acting finicky. Your feedback is appreciated.
  2. Any good coils that dont require me upgrading the whole ignition system (harness, coils) The loom is new, so is the ignitor. I did have to replace one coil (company I got the car from sent it out for me and it worked so I've left it) CAS is OEM on the car. Never changed it. My pig tails on my injectors could use some love.
  3. Yesterday when I let the car idle after sorting out all the little issues I didnt really hear the "lopeyness" in it. I was expecting it to sound something like this: I have the same cams and seems like the same mods. Im pretty stock internal wise only mods that i have done is the 3" exhaust, rebuilt the stock turbos with better internals and had them balanced, the Tomei Poncams 262* 9.15 car came with mushroom intake filter, and I added the HKS BOV. not much else engine wise. Also, I mentioned in my prior post that it seemed like it was breaking up on the higher RPMs, i'm hoping its something as simple as just some fouled plugs so Im gonna change those out today, if not what else do you guys think it can be. I do have a Nistune and can log data if that would help anyone help me.
  4. Putting it back together sucked, rebuilding the turbos sucked too. I fired her up and she stumbled at first but once it got going she idled good and sounds good. Here's turbo 1 after the rebuild: Here's turbo 2 after the rebuild, I was just using a shop vac to see if had any shaft play or whatnot : We had to leave my house and go up the street to bleed and burp the air out of the coolant neighbor started complaining it was too loud. The timing belt is a gates so it was a little whiney when we started it. It seems good now Here's a little backfire: I'm getting some cut outside when I hit the higher RPMs. I have a fuel filter so I'm gonna change that out, then I'll go to updating the injectors and fuel rail and fuel pump. Another project for another time. I'll enjoy this for now. Still got more to do on this. Having the front brake calipers powder coated to match the engine bay valve covers and cam cover. I have the rear pads and rotors as well as front pads and rotors. Need to get new CV boots on there. The other ones popped off that I just replaced not to long ago. I might have not clamped em down tight enough. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.
  5. Im pretty confident the other one is still in there. I did not remove the crankshaft gear and if I had I'd have seen it. I only removed the harmonic balancer. So when I install it, its gonna be the woodruff key (making sure its firmly in place), then the plate that sits against the crankshaft gear, balancer, spacer and bolt then tighten to specs.
  6. Well shit. I dont remember it having one when I pulled the balancer out. I bagged everything as I took it apart and labeled it.
  7. I just want to triple check. This woodford key doesnt need to slide into the gear sprocket on the camshaft right? It's just the woodford key, a backplate that will push up against the gear when I slide the harmonic balancer on. If I recall the woodford key holds the harmonic balancer on this slot here.
  8. Yeah. Ordered both. Tensioner stud is the one I couldnt remove.
  9. Well in that case. I'll leave it be. Appreciate it. I wont overtighten em. Got a torque wrench and the FSM for bolt specs.
  10. I'll give that a try. I was advised to change it. So I ordered the bolt and wanted to have it out before the new one got here cuz I guess these are prone to snapping.
  11. Ive thought about it. Havent pulled the trigger on em yet though.
  12. I was advised to change the tensioner bolt and I cant seem to get it off. I tried using 2 nuts to lock one in place with the other and turn it that way and it didnt work.
  13. So how do I get this tensioner stud out. Tried the 2 nuts on there and things tight. Dont think it's coming off.
  14. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Coolant-Line-Kit-For-R32-R33-RB26DETT-GT-R-with-Stock-TB25-Twin-Turbo-/302848068128 I wanna replace the coolant lines with these. What's the longevity or experience if you all have had any. If I could replace the hard lines for vacuum, oil and coolant that run to the turbos thatd be cool too. Any recommendations? These look like a better buy: https://www.ebay.com/p/2274087840
  15. That is correct, that is the method I used/using (feelers from both sides). On the intake side it is a bit more difficult due to the fuel rail etc still being on. Exhaust side was a lot easier.
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