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About Jjtxaz24

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  1. All the ones I have seen are upwards of 700 not including shipping. Both those websites included. Lol. I dont have the dimensions in the AC condensor. I dont know if the AC condensor are proprietary to the r32, r33 etc. I'd be interested in it. Let me know what you can find.
  2. Are there any replacement AC condensers that are not over $600+? I've been trying to find one but that's a bit steep on price. Do you guys have junk yards that can pull one and ship it to the states?
  3. I'm not going to be tracking or racing the car. My use at the moment until I get the maintenance done and all the little things out the way will be just daily driving it and hitting up car shows. Cars not in rough shape but it does have its imperfections. Once that's done I can focus in the stuff I really wanna do and get a little more horsepower out of it. The roads here in TX arent the best. Pretty rough in most parts. Suspension at the moment is super soft, well the rears are. I'm not sure how the GTR suspension is stock but it looks to be rear struts are Original and the fronts are some sort of coils. The level the car sits at is great though. Heres some pics. when I had it lifted off the floor see how droopy the rear suspension is?
  4. So are the teins listed above a cheap alternative? Poor ride quality? Cant be worse than these blown shocks I have now.
  5. Yeah I didnt see the point in buying stock when they're almost the price of some good coils. I was just looking to see if there was some cross over stock rear struts I can use and get locally. I appreciate the feed back and the links. Actually seen some twins for about 900 the demon tweeks website has them for cheaper but I wonder if that's not including shipping.
  6. Getting around to doing the much needed maintenance on my skyline. It's a 1991 R32 GT-R. I realized that it still has the stock shocks and pretty sure they're blown. Pretty bouncy in the rear and the roads here in TX suck. Is there a strut that can be interchanged with the stock ones. All I see when I look up the part number on the strut is OEM from Japan for way more than I'd like to pay. For the price of 2 I minus well get some coilovers. Pic for reference with the part number: 56210-05U00
  7. Yeah, before when the overheating issues were worse it would spike pretty high and cause my coolant temp to spike as well and I'd park it and let cool down. Coolant would be boiling and eventually it would overflow my coolant overflow tank and spill out. I checked the plugs when I first got the car and I havent since. I can pull em again and see if they're good. Might just change em since that's an easy fix. I don't have a way to measure the AFR. It's on my "to get list", along with a CV boot for my driver side outer side (any cross over cars that fit our CV Joint).
  8. Ok so yesterday i bled the system. The whole 9. Didnt get to drive it. Today i got around to driving it. Here's what it looked like after driving it hard for a bit. Once i saw it hit that temp in the oil i let off and cruised around. I did swap my broken mishimoto radiator cap for my old stock one. Its rated for a lower pressure than the mishimoto. Also heres a pic of the engine bay someone asked for. The mishimoto is about an inch and some shorter than the stock and that is why the shroud dont fit. Ill be making something to raise it up to stock height and put the shroud on when I do. You can see i removed the ac condensor, was gonna wire up the condensor fan to a stand alone switch just havent gotten around to it.
  9. I am NOT having issue with cooling at the lights. I do agree that i need to fix the shroud on there I think this radiator may be a bit shorter than my stock so i need to find/make a way to raise it so it clears the fan with the shroud on. 》》》My current issue with it is if i drive it hard, my oil temps will creep up to the midway point. Once they do and if I'm still driving hard itll spike my coolant temp. Once I see that and if I let it cool down and let my oil temp drop under mid way, coolant drops and I'm good to go. 《《《 After being properly bled. If I cruise and drive it normal from the get go, there is no issue with my oil temp, it stays below half and my engine coolant temp reads just below half as well. Ill be able to drive it all day and its been in the 90° F here in Texas. Haven't checked the plugs yet currently at work and I dont have a current picture with the nee radiator in, ill get one today and post it up for you guys to see. Apologies for the confusion and thank you for your help. I appreciate it.
  10. Correct. Opened the bleeder by the valve cover. Funnel in radiator and turned it on. Pushed out fluid and I capped it to ensure no air got back in. Your saying the brand new aliminum radiator I just swapped in for the 28+ year old stock plastic one still needs to get pressure tested??? I've heard nothing but good things about Mishimoto. The stock fan shroud did not fit on the nee radiator. I did remove the ac condenser and bumper is still off. I dont believe its not an airflow issue due to the fact that it would overheat at lights and stop n go traffic it doesnt. It overheats when my oil temp gets over half way and ive been beating on it. Ill get a laser thermometer to check the temp when its hot. See what its really at. I have checked my oil and there is no signs of coolant in the oil, or it looking milky.
  11. I bled it again but didnt drive it to work. Ill check it tonight. Bled it by turning it on with the funnel in place, heater on, and block air bleeder removed. Fluid came out through it. Plugged it, let it warm up to operating temp with heat still on, revved it to force coolant flow then turned off heat, and closed it. Hope that does it.
  12. Well its been a little while since i last posted and unfortunately I'm still overheating. Whats been done since my last post is: Ordered a new radiator, mishimoto. It wasnt till i got it that i realized that i have a 50mm one and that doesnt allow me to leave the fan shroud on it like the smaller ones do (after i looked up why the fan shroud didnt fit with the radiator bolted into place) Checked the thermostat again and it was opening. I have a mishimoto thermostat coming in thats supposed to open at 62° c rather than the stock 72°. I havent decided if i wanna change it or not. My AC condensor was so old and brittle it was useless and well I currently didnt have AC so i pulled it for the time being to remove the clutter and allow more air flow. Bought a radiator bleeding funnel looking thing. Worked good. Really felt like i got all the air out the system that way with it. Took the car on a test drive and oil pressure stayed under half and the coolant temp stayed normal. Drove it to work, around work all day and from work. Not a sign of overheating. I did notice i was leaking a bit of coolant, tightened my lower hose it looked like it was slipping off. Cross my fingers that it didn't get air in the system. Drove fine. Got close to home and decided to rip it around the block till I can get the oil temp up over half, sure enough I did. Up went my temp again. Parked it to let it cool down and i noticed my radiator cap was barely on. Idk if I didn't put on all the way when I closed it or the pressure pushed it up. Im gonna try to rebleed it one more time but I honestly dont think thats my issue. Gonna order a test kit to see if im getting gases mixed into my coolant and possibly a blow headgasket. Ot sure what else would cause it to overheat. In short: changed thermostat, bled system as manual instructs, still overheated. Changed fan clutch, rebled system as manual states still overheated. Rechecked thermostat, its working, resealed it, changed radiator to a new mishimoto, removed ac condensor, rebled using a radiator funnel, drove fine in tx heat to and from work. Only went up in temp once oil temp went up past half.
  13. Check and make sure your pigtails on your injectors are good. Just push em in, unplug em, clean em and add some dialectic grease. I had a misfire and after changing coils, plug, harness and ignitor box i ended up jiggling the injector plug on the cylinder that was misfiring and issue was resolved.
  14. Yeah the fan, fan blades and shroud are good. Very fee small cracks on the fan but nothing to affect performance or cause it to overheat. I did NOT replace the water pump. I was told that usually when those fail you'll know they either get broken inside, physically or leak from the gaskets because they are belt driven. I hope its not the oil pump, that means I'd have to pull the engine to do that. The oil pressure is sitting there after (in reference to the pictures) I drove it back and it over heated. Ill check later this week where it sits at idle, I'm sure its at the ~4 as well. Edit: checked my youtube link i posted in the thread earlier and it was sitting just a hair below 4 on my pressure gauge as it idled. Radiator hoses- I was talking about just during the flush. It advises to touch the lower hose and it should be running warm water as the "thermostat" should have opened. Then it instructs to race the engine at 2500 RPMS. I dont get that, so I just race the engine then it warms the coolant up on the lower hose and its good. I'm gonna try another thermostat. I really didnt want to take that housing off again and rebleed the system ha ha. Side note: is there oil filter relocation kits that AREN'T GREDDY and upwards of $200+
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