Jjtxaz24

That's good to know. I just wanted to double check. I left the 4WD fuse in and left it as if it was good, before I lowered the car off the jackstands I actually ran it through the gears and it was transferring the torque to the front wheels. Unfortunately today after driving it around it still seems to be leaking. I made sure all bleeder locations were tight before I brought it down. I'll have to lift it back up and check again. Car drives me insane sometimes lol.

I drove the car this morning and the 4WD light on the gauge cluster is off (from what I read it comes on due to being low on fluid), picture in my last post is where the fluid level is still at. The torque gauge in the cluster moves up as normal when I pick up the RPMs. It seems to be working fine I just cant get the fluid to fill the enclosed part of the reservoir by activating the pump how the manual suggest.

Alright. Update. I got the fluids in the transfer case. Went to try and bleed the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and when I would unplug the clip in the front driver side I would hear the relay in the boot click on but i didnt hear the pump prime. I think the pumps screwed now. I dont know if it leaks just yet where the actuator mates with the transfer case, it was late when I did it. Should I leave the 4WD fuse out under the dash or put it in and see if it moved the fluid into the reservoir. Heres what it currently looks like: heres what I used as a guide: And also this video link:

This is excellent information to have I will report back if the leak is still persistent. Agreed. Our boy Josh doing the dirty work.

Saw this post after I ordered the 515. I've already drained the transfer case, and ran a bead to let it cure. Did it Friday and went out of town so hopefully when I get back I can fill it and top off the ATTESSA reservoir in the trunk and bleed the system. Also replaced those hoses. I took off the shifter boot and replaced it with a new one. What if that was where it was leaking from too? Boot was torn and worn out. The new one fits snug and I put a zip tie around the bottom to hopefully keep it secure and the ATF fluid in.

That's good to know. Ordered the 515 should be here Thursday so I'll get it done this weekend. Then I'll wait for the next problem to come up... Anyone on here know how to tune with NISTune by any chance? Lol.

Sounds good. I'd assume like Duncan suggested that loctite would be very similar if not better to the nissan flavor. I also searched and didn't see a gasket required

Awesome. Thanks guys.

I can say with confidence that the actuator is a metal on metal surface and flat with no indentation to run a seam. I don't believe depth is critical. It sits flush against the back of the transfer case and then it gets torqued down to like 50 ftlbs (can't remember off the top of my head at the moment) Here's a picture of it.

Noted. I'll look one up and see what the local parts store got, otherwise I'll order it. Don't plan on working on it until the weekend. Edit: this is the one I got. Would this not work? It's what came up when I googled "gasket compound".

I'm not worried about the fluid in the reservoir. It's pretty low that a flush is required anyways and when I change those hoses out for new ones I'm sure I'll loose the rest. I'll have to refill and bleed it anyways. Ok so I'll make a paper gasket and use some RTV to help seal it. Got both on hand. I was curious about that as well.

As always Duncan, thanks man. You always come in clutch. Ok so I removed and reinstalled #1 a few times. After looking through the service manual I found out this was the actuator that is fed from the reservoir in the boot as you mentioned through a few hoses and a high pressure one. When I removed it, there was no gasket. Once I looked into it and through the forums I saw the actuator has a built in gasket in the actuator itself. Side question: the metal rod in there. Is there a specific way it goes? It's rounded on both sides and I'm sure it's what the actuator pushes on to engage the transfer case to transfer the torque to the front wheels. In regards to #2, the threaded fitting and angle seat. Which is this? Is this what connects to the actuator itself? If it is a line that connects to the actuator, I never undid it but I can double check it's tight, it could have come loose when I unbolted the 2 bolts off the actuator that connects it to the transfer case those couple times. You are right, luckily both are accessible and don't require me to drop the trans or anything crazy. I need to make some time this weekend to knock it out. Again I appreciate the help.

Recently did a clutch install and noticed a leak that seems to be coming from the rear of that transmission where the actuator is. I can tell it's not my transmission fluid because I used the redline shockproof and that was a thicker, more pinkish color. I filled the transfer case with ATF and that is bright red. That seems to be the fluid I am leaking. My question is, would I be able to use RTV to help make the seal on the actuator? I know these actuators have a built in lip that act as a gasket/oring and considering the cars 30+ and I had to remove it on and off a few times it might be due for a new one (hopefully it's not). Prior to the clutch job, there was no leaks from. I'm waiting for some replacement hoses to change out the lines for the ATTESSA canister in the trunk leading to the actuator and address another leak that I've had from there for a little bit. Appreciate your advice and thanks in advance guys!

I'm excited to be driving it again and my boys are too. Yeah, I removed the mantic and used the xclutch twin. I honestly think the throw out bearing sleeve being 18mm is what was causing the problem. The original one I snapped is 15mm, when I ordered the new one that was "OEM" I measured it and it came to 18mm. I didn't measure the mantic kit to the xclutch. The one that came with the new clutch kit is 15mm. I reused my OE fork, and pivotball (just a new one) everything else is what was in the kit.

Well there's a saying round here that goes "third times the charm." Removed and installed the trans on Friday (had a day off and kids were at day care) in about 7 hrs with some breaks for lunch and sanity checks. Bled the clutch today and topped off the tranafer case (still gotta figure out how to get the 4WD light off on the dash - I vacuum Bled the actuator, but it's still on) but she drives perfectly. Clutch feels good and it's nice to have her out of the garage in time for some summer cruising... Maintenance never ends and still got little things to do but for now it's good. Learned some tips to get that starter bolt on/off and the top bell housing bolts. Thank you all for all your help!!