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Jjtxaz24 last won the day on November 29 2019

Jjtxaz24 had the most liked content!

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About Jjtxaz24

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  1. Still need some help guys cars been sitting and I never figured out the issue, also got busy with school and work. I went through and found a pic of before I put it back together. I thought maybe I f**ked up the rear vacuum lines and I scoured the internet for some references found a few and they seem right. As well as this vacuum line diagram. Im more worried about the rear lines as they would be a little more difficult to reach with the intake on. Here's how I think they go using the diagram... Initially I did have the front green and blue lines crossed. I flipped em and I still had the same issue. That's what made me think I flipped something in the rear of that coolant return/vacuum tube.
  2. Built a boost leak tester and happy to say that I don't have any leaks. I was kind of wishing I did and fix this issue. Got around to cleaning off any dirt and grime from the coils. I also did the ohm test to see if they are good. When I ohmed them out it read 0. I checked all 6 and they all said the same thing. FSM says .6-.9 ohms is ideal. Mine read 0. I changed the plugs to brand new ones and plugged everything back up. Fired it up and I pulled the pig tail off the coils individually. I can hear the RPM drop so thats a good indicator the coils are working. I put my ear on a long screwdriver to the injectors and I can hear the clicking. Went for a drive and same issue. It feels and drives terrible. Things I did was change all the coolant lines, replaced the vacuum lines. I had previously blocked the lines off that led to charcoal canister. I went over my vacuum lines and I had these circled ones crossed. I undid them and got em right. Same issue. Car ran and drove fine before I yanked the intake off to replace the coolant lines and while I was down there vacuum lines I did also clean up the AAC valve. I didnt take off the brass plug i just used the electric cleaner through the little hole and shook that out, and screwed out the idle adjustment screw to clean that out then out it back. Not sure what else to do guys. Need your help.
  3. I swapped back my stock coils, ignitor and same issue. When I pulled the plugs they looked like the car is running rich (it is). Tomorrow I'm gonna look into building a boost leak tester. I was thinking removing the MAFs, cap one and use the other to feed air and pressurize the system. Will that work? Found this link here: https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/gtr-boost-leak-tester-diy.174597/ but unsure where hes feeding air into from the compressor. Is there a relearn these cars need to go through once you change the gaskets out? Any help is appreciated, I'm at my wit's end with this car. Its always something.
  4. Got it all buttoned up, and I think I may have used a little to much throttle coat. Throttle feels a little sticky. I didn't mess with any adjustments at all so thats the only other variable. Other issue I'm having is that under load around 4k (so when I'm in boost) it feels like it hits a wall and it just falls on its face, and bogs down to almost dying and then gets back up to the idle of ~950 Prior to tearing it apart I'd have break up in the upper RPMs like around 6-7k but nothing how I'm feeling now. I was told by some buddies it could be a tune issue. I have the LS coils in it. I could swap back to the old coils. I havent checked the plugs yet but I'm assuming they're gonna show the cars running rich, cuz it is.
  5. I was able to figure out where it went. Hope I did the Throttle coat right, we'll find out soon. Hoping to get it started this week.
  6. I was able to get the throttle coat and applied it. Started to assemble it and ran into this here. Its the water bypass tube. I can't find in the manual where the nipple with the coolant hose goes to.
  7. So in the event I am not able to get this from overseas is there a good alternate? Bought from 1 spot in the UK and they said they wont ship to the US because customs dont like to allow these type of products to cross, so they refunded me the money. I ordered from an Australian company (high octane racing) and waiting for them to send me the shipping quote, but I already ordered the Throttle coat. Shits expensive for what it is and the 1 use I'm gonna get out of it.
  8. Yeah, I used the electric cleaner, a micro fiber towel, and a soft bristle tooth brush. Nothing crazy, but I would hate to have to take this all off again to fix this. I saw a picture on the tomei site it coats the butterfly valve outer surface.
  9. Anything posted in the last 30 years no longer has valid links or pictures lol.
  10. When I posted this I started searching and found that some who cleaned them and rebuilt engines had zero issues while others had a high idle. I ended up ordering it. So well see when it comes in. I didn't use a carb cleaner I used a cleaner thats safe on electrical connections since its all I had on hand. I dont see any current tutorials on applying that coat do i just open the butterfly valves and coat the sides with it then let em close?
  11. So I got around to cleaning up the intake side because I had to replace some coolant hoses, and I asked a buddy if he cleaned his throttle bodies when he replaced his gaskets he said he didn't and you're not supposed to because of a seal nissan puts from the factory around the butterfly valves. Well, I cleaned em and now what? I don't wanna slap it together and have idle issues.
  12. Shit, my bad. Its for a 91 GTR.
  13. Yeah, not looking for OEM. I was just gonna order bout 2-3 feet or so of various sizes.
  14. Hey guys, pulled the intake plenum off to replace some coolant hoses and ended up having to replace a coolant tube located under the intake. While I'm in there I ordered a starter, the coolant hose kit, and the intake gaskets and such. Looking to order the vacuum lines as well. Looked through the FSM and didn't see any sizes on the hoses. Looked on google and ran into a variety of em ranging from 4mm-8mm. Any info is greatly appreciated.
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