Smokey_1507
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Posts posted by Smokey_1507
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I will check them again before the new covers go on.. would there be a difference in size for the rb25det and the neo motor in regard to the half moons??
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52 minutes ago, BK said:
I assume you're referring to the rocker cover bolts. Was this one if those cheap shitty solid washer type kits that don't use a factory style rubber crush insulator ? If so, there is a reason the factory use these rubbers - to try and prevent overtightening.
Also the torque on these is only 2 - 4Nm.
Use the new factory stuff instead of the bling stuff - and actually torque them down in sequence. Not that this mattered in this situation with regards to sealing as the rear of your covers were kicked up by the billet half moons not being flush anyway.
I got the bolt kit from Franklin performance, they came with small washers but are not the crush type,, I will try get some new factory bolts from somewhere or re use the ones I took off.. cheers for the sequence! I did tighten from the middle to each end, I will make sure not to use a ratchet and only tighten by 🖐 once the replacement covers get delivered this week.
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3 hours ago, Ben C34 said:
I wouldn't be surprised if by "healthy amount of sealer" you put on way too much and that caused them to sit high
The sealer I used was like a liquid and came with a brush in the pot, I put a healthy amount on around the half moon to try get a good seal so it didn’t leak but the height wouldn’t be caused by the sealer imo..
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3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
The cost of copy engineering instead of proper engineering.
I may have to agree on this.. I will get some rubber half moons I think as said, as they can squash down.
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5 hours ago, hardsteppa said:
Poor design? Rubber ones sit up a little bit like that cos they can squash flat. My Taarks aluminium ones sit flush.
I’m not sure, I purchased them from Franklin performance along with the head bolt kit
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Hi All,
I decided to paint my rocker covers with a aerosol can I had for the last 6 months, I de greased and lightly sanded the bad spots then scotch brite all over, I then gave 2 coats of primer & let it dry, I then gave it two coats of Matt black & let theist dry, then put on two coats of watermelon megashift pearl and to finished I put two coats of lacquer, I was very happy with how they turned out considering it was done in my shed on a cold night with aerosol cans,
I pulled the old pvc grommet and the two pipes from each head and put in An-10 adapters ready for the lines to go to the catch can, I cleaned the old sealant from the front and rear of the block and removed the 2 half moons as billet replacements and a head bolt kit to replace studs and washers..
on installing the half moons I put a healthy amount of sealer on and sat them in, I noticed that they don’t sit flush with the head, is that normal??
I put some sealer on the back portion of the head covering the half moon and along the front of the head.. I replaced gaskets with new ones just to be sure!! All was looking good at this stage..
but then ....
As I was tightening the rocker cover studs my brother said that will do as moments earlier I said they only had to be hand tight, me being me I gave an extra turn and all CC I heard was “ding” I looked down and it was split 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️..
After a lot of swear words we walked away for an hour or two then I started the car to see if it would leak under pressure and surely it was 😭😭😭.. I noticed that it was leaking from the half moons at the rear too!!
I have sourced some rocker covers and will have to start again.. Any ideas why the half moons don’t sit flush and why the sealant didn’t seal & the rear of the head?? It did recommend 24 hrs but I’ve also heard people doing this job and driving straight away..
Any info ?? Did I miss something along the way??
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1 hour ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Without telling us what your looking for no one can really make a recommendation. How about starting with how much power you want to make and what you'll be using the car for? Street/circuit/drift/drag/etc...
Also if your going e85 you'll run out of injectors with only 750cc.
Hi,
I’m looking for anything around the 400-450 bhp mark.. I’m not looking to go forged yet ( maybe in the future) its a road car and the odd drift day. I won’t be going e85 as it’s hard to find in Ireland as it was phased out a few years ago, so it will be regular unleaded for the c35 laurel ⛽️, On a side note I have a bio power 9-5 and it’s a shame I can’t get e85 for that too
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Hi all, after reading 615 pages I’m still confused on which turbo to buy 🤦♂️ I have a unopened rb25 neo, fmic, I have a link ecu and a 6 boost manifold waiting to go in, would I be better off with the ART43G3SAT or go for the g3 .82 bb version I have my eye on 750cc injectors to go with it.
cheers
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On 13/10/2020 at 7:26 PM, robbo_rb180 said:
Just put one of these on a rb30 powered drift car. Very good result on low boost (16psi) did QR matsuri with no issues so far.
Cheers for that info, I live in Ireland and it seems like a good deal especially with the 6 boost manifold.. I’m only looking to make around 400 and I’ll be happy around that ball park.. a link ecu is in the pipe work along with injectors.. if I don’t have to go forged for abit of fun that will help the bank balance!
Was there much lag on your rb30?? Did you go .82 or .63?? I hope there isn’t much lag on my neo motor with the .82 if I decide to buy it.
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23 hours ago, toranarod said:
This is the same noise. I found the problem I am not sure how to explain it. check the direction of the wast gate actuator control valve. This is going to sound very stage. But what the noise was on my GTT was the wast gate actuator was opening the wastage only a little bit creating a condition where hot air was flowing past the gate like air over a whistle like a a church organ works or a steam train blowing it whistle. I kid you not. It was so loud it was defining I even went out a purchased a new turbo That I never fitted . just because I had a small valve the wrong way around.
Cheers for the info, I haven’t touched the turbo or wastegate but before I spend out I’ll give it a look over, the stainless only went as far as the cat.. I was holding off going the whole way till I decided if I go with a new top mount external wastegate turbo and manifold setup... it’s baffling but the noise is annoying when I’m giving it beans 🙈
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Hi All,
since I got a stainless exhaust put on my rb25detneo I have noticed a screeching noise when on full boost.. I’m thinking the turbo may be on the way out.. i have found this for €2k has anyone had any experience with these turbos??
https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/rb25-rb26-turbo-kit-boosted-aeroflow-5855-6-boost-turbosmart-gtx3076r-82-natural/link to video of screeeching sound..
Any info would be great 👍
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Cheers man!! Before I left I checked the hazard switch and it was getting 12v, the stick in the steering column works with the lights just not the indicator, I’ll check out the wiring diagrams while I’m away and when i get back in a few week from work I’ll have to get searching with the multimeter as it’s a must fix job ? managed to get the driftworks suspension arms on and did a clean and wax so the weekend wasn’t an entire waste ?
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I think I read that it pulls 1.3amp on normal and 2.3amp when heating.. maybe it should be ran directly to the battery?? I thought the power to the guages would be sufficient?? Would that cause the indicator and hazard to stop working?? I don’t have the bung installed yet.
cheers GTSBoy
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hi,ive recently installed a wideband gauge and a turbo timer and since then I have lost the use of my indicator and hazard lights on my c35 laurel( they both don’t work but did previously.
I wired the turbo timer into the key harness going into the barrel & ran the wideband from the power going into my guages, I’m not using the ecu wire just yet so the remaining wires have been taped off..
I have removed the turbo timer and they still don’t work, I have checked all the fuses in the drivers foot well for any breaks and also checked the fuses in the engine bay
any ideas on what’s at fault???
thanks in advance ?
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5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
This theory is flawed, especially if a moron (like myself) has put a R34 NEO motor into their R33 using the R33 loom & plenum
Best way is to locate the front passenger side head drain, it's non-existent on a NEO.
Cheers I’ll check it out or get someone too ASAP!!
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2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
There were a few "transitional" engines that had the Hitachi CAS but were not Neo engines. My theory is that you can tell by the ECU plug. The R33 is slim and has two rows of pins. The R34 (Neo) has 3/4 rows of pins. I used to know the colours of the plugs but maybe someone else can tell you.
Cheers KiwiRS4T, next time I’m back home I’ll check the ecu plug... the more I look at different pics of neo’s and s2’s I get confused at the differences!!
2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:Vct connector is heaps different, pre neo has external Vct drain at front exhaust side, that should be reasonably obvious.
Coil packs bolt in differently
What are you buying?
Ben C34,
I’m looking at service parts at the min, timing belt, water pump, spark plugs.. I’ve just got the car back from the painters and had an arch, side skirts, front and back bumpers fixed and painted.. I’ve just put a custom stainless exhaust on from the cat back ( sticks out a little too much, may take it back a little bit!) the next big thing will be injectors and turbo + link ecu and a tune to see what it puts out.. I’m not looking for crazy power.. it bothers me that I don’t know if it’s a neo but when I’m home I’ll check for the vct drain and ecu plug!
i have kinked tension rods, rear camber arms, toe rods, traction rods ready to be fitted when I get back.
the video it sounds like something is slipping in the engine, possibly a belt or could be bad audio but I heard something that doesn’t sound right ?♂️
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Sorry for bringing up a old thread but I’m having trouble identifying what engine I have.. is it a neo or s2? It has a plastic cas for a neo, turbo is a 45v4 , 75t block, no igniter on back of the block for coil packs.. I don’t wanna start spending cash until I know what parts to buy.. cheers ?
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ok.. sounds like a 2 min job ?
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Hi All..
So I tried to fit a stupid drift button to my handbrake but somehow I managed to pull out the whole button and connecting rod from inside the lever and now the button has sank into the handbrake and won’t come out, I managed to pick up a r33 spare working lever.. are they a big job to replace?? Is there any links on how it’s replaced??
cheers
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So the time has come to throw some cash at the c35 laurel current setup is rb25det neo with a front mount inter cooler i need some info on the first thing to buy, ideally I’d be happy for around 450-500 bhp, if I could get away without going fully forged even better.. time has come to freshen up the engine bay... the less down time = more fun!!
Direct bolt on turbo?
Link ecu?
Spitfire coil packs?
Front facing intake plenum?
Remap?
Oil cooler kit?
Best way to up the boost? Get rid of the 2 stage maybe.. currently running 7psi.
any info would be greatly appreciated ?
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15 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:
If you have a line going to the ecu its probably for a map sensor...assuming you have an aftermarket ecu
Ah I see.. Its on a standard ecu so I was told when I bought the car... it was running a link ecu so the previous owner told me... I’ll disconnect the hose until the funds come available to replace the ecu with another link... ?
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17 hours ago, Blakeo said:
Never ever, ever tee into the wastegate line. Get rid of this now, if the wastegate signal gets altered you can overboost the motor and blow it up.
Tee it off the factory boost gauge line that goes onto the sender for the gauge. Or you should have a vacuum line going off the front of the throttle body hard to see from the photos but if you take a photo from this direction I can show you which one to use.
Cheers,
I haven’t cut any pipes yet as I was unsure.. I haven’t got a factory boost guage on my c35 laurel, I will try get a clearer picture from the side at the weekend and I’ll pm you with them if you don’t mind... thanks in advance ?
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Hi all,
im installing a boost guage and two other gauges in my c35 laurel, i have removed the 2 din stereo and fitted a 1 din stereo and I’m having a 3 52mm hole 1 din size guage holder to fill the space up... I have the boost guage wired up to the stereo for power & illumination & the ground running to a bolt on the chassis next to the gear stick... can I tap into the wire that’s coming from the front of the manifold that has been blocked off or do I tap into the line going into the acctuator on the left strut tower?? Also I have a tube running from the turbo that runs into a sensor for the ecu, could someone explain what that is for?? Also I’ve 2x gauges left to buy, any recommendations what to put there?? Air fuel ration, voltmeter, water temp, oil temp, ect... Any help would be greatly appreciated ?
Cracked rocker cover 🤦♂️
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Ah that’s my problem then.. I have just noticed the gaskets are different too 🤦♂️ The neo ones have a flat edge where the normal rb are rounded.. I’ll use the old gasket as it seems to be in good condition.
Ive changed all 6 spark plugs as the old ones were looking dirty
I have just bought some skyline r34 gt & gtt rb25neo genuine cylinder head half moons,
just waiting on paint to be delivered then it can go back together,
cheers for all the help and info!!